tekkydave

Some pics. The new idler arrangement: Gap where wheels used to be:

I've added some extra idlers to increase the contact area between the z drive belt and the pulleys (photos to follow). I have also removed the front L&R wheel sets as I think having wheels at all 4 corners was over-constraining the z axis. It moves up & down perfectly on the 3 leadscrews now so only needs constraining on the back edge. I may also remove the front bar I added if it proves ok as it is just dead weight now. Both of these changes together has allowed me to increase the maximum z axis speed from 120 to 180mm/min. This also improves the piezo z probe operation as the faster you can hit it the better.

When you home the axes it runs the homex.g, homey.g, homez.g or homeall.g depending on what you clicked. Check the contents of those to make sure they are not doing something strange.

Add this to set corexy mode: M667 S1 ; Select CoreXY mode

I think the tiny antenna on the WiFi module lets it down. There was a discussion on the Forum about having a proper connector & antenna but it puts the costs up too much. I think you may need a repeater or a spare router connected via ethernet.

How is the Duet getting its Gnd connection. Via usb?

Signing off for now. I'm not being rude if I don't reply straight away

5v only from the ATX should be ok to see and edit your config files.

From the Duet Wiki: The Duet operates on two power circuits: a 5V circuit that powers the CPU, WiFi, and web interface, (mostly through a 3.3V LDO) and a 12/24V circuit that powers the motors and heaters.

Do you want to see whats in the config.g or test the probe? USB power wont power the board I think. I'm not using any 5V supplies so I don't know what it will power. Anyone else know?

Everything else looks good to me

Check the motor connections for Y and E0 - they seem to be different to X & Z (which match mine). Or is that the non-standard motor wiring you mentioned earlier?

I think the Z probe connector can be used for either analogue or digital probes. I have my piezo probe connected to it. It can behave as analogue or digital depending on config. From my config.g ; Z Probe / Endstop M558 P5 I0 R0.4 F225 X0 Y0 Z1 ; P5 = Digital mode, I0 = NO, R0.4 = 400mS delay before probing, F300 = 300mm/min probe speed, X0 Y0 Z1 = used as axis endstop for Z axis G31 X0 Y0 Z-0.2 P100 ; X, Y, Z offsets, debounce interval P0 indicates that no Z probe is present. P1 specifies an unmodulated or smart IR probe, or any other probe type that emulates one (probe output is an analog signal that rises with decreasing nozzle height above the bed). If there is a control signal to the probe, it is driven high when the probe type is P1. P2 specifies a simple modulated IR probe, where the modulation is commanded directly by the main board firmware using the control signal to the probe. P3 is similar to P1 but drives the control signal to the probe low. This may be used to switch between different Z probes. P4 selects a switch for bed probing (on the Duet, this must be connected to the E0 endstop pins). P5 (from RepRapFirmware 1.14) selects a switch (normally closed) for bed probing between the In and Gnd pins of the Z-probe connector (Duet 0.8.5 and Duet WiFi). P6 is as P4 but the switch is connected to an alternative connector (on the Duet series, the E1 endstop connector). P7 is as P4 but the switch is connected to the Z endstop connector (firmware 1.20 and later). P8 is as P5 but the signal is unfiltered for lower latency (firmware 1.20 and later). I guess you are using M558 P4 where the probe (acting as a switch) gets connected to the E0 endstop pins.

Looks good. Are you not using the Z probe socket for your Z probe (at bottom of board)?

I have noticed that motor connections seem to be fairly non-standard and different between boards, kits etc. For example my Prusa had the RAMPS wired Black-Green-Red-Blue whereas the Duet has Black-Green-Blue-Red. Will still work but the effect of swapping one of the pairs (Red/Blue) is to reverse the direction. I have stuck to the Duet wiring schematic as I have rewired all the connectors.

The Home hubs are pretty good - I can get a signal halfway down the garden, but I wouldn't want to rely on it. My weather station RPi outside is connected via the regular house Wifi and seems to manage. Upstairs it seems to be marginal (-60 to -70db) and the Duet only has a tiny antenna so I didn't want to rely on it, especially once the Duet is put in a case. The signal from the office router is consistently -30db. We can't all have the luxury of fibre right to our doors, Gina . I'm getting 42Mb/s download and 20Mb/s upload speeds which isn't bad when you consider the last half mile of cable is a twisted pair

I thought about getting the Duet Ethernet but decided on the Wifi instead and set up a spare BT Homehub WiFi router in the office. This is also connected via Ethernet to the rest of my network so I can access the Duet from anywhere in the house. Our main BT router is downstairs and the Duet will connect to it but the signal is marginal.

Looks like you dont need to worry about the MAC address on the Duet Wifi: https://www.duet3d.com/wiki/G-code#M540:_Set_MAC_address

Yes, I had to do that with one my Ramps boards as the terminals they fit are so poor.

I use these a lot as they are flat bladed and can be trimmed to length. Uses a standard terminal crimper.

I try to avoid tinning wires as the heating can make them brittle.

Ok, no problem

I dont mind but if you want to start one I will contribute anything I learn to it.

Make sure you upload your config gcode files in the settings area. If you upload them in the 'Gcode Files' area they will just be available to be printed. Might be a good idea to download the supplied files before overwriting them. Select all files via the tick box at the top, then right click on one of the files. It should let you download as a zip.

Well done