tekkydave

Ha ha. Yes it will help with the sd card plugged in

Not sure. Mine worked ok once I had it connected to the WiFi which you seem to have done. Make sure you have followed all the instructions on the wiki. There is also a section on how to upgrade it and where to get the files.

Mine worked fine on 19.2. I wouldn't recommend trying to upgrade it until you have the web interface working.

It's worth upgrading but it should work with the supplied version - probably 1.19.

The wiki has a link to the drivers at the start of the v1.19 section on This page.

Send M115 to find out which version of the firmware is installed. Mine was preloaded with the v1.19 software so I followed the instructions from this line onwards: Send the following command to start the WiFi module so that it can accept a programming command: M552 S0

Yes. All file up/downloads and even .g file editing is via Web Control. BTW Pronterface or Repetier Host will also work for the initial setup via the usb port

The alternative is to find a terminal program for Linux that lets you connect via the usb port. I thought the arduino serial monitor was a quick & dirty solution for a 10min job. Once your Duet is connecting to your WiFi everything else is done via the Web Control interface.

Ah, I understand now

It doesn't matter as long as the port is set correctly. Just start the Serial Monitor and you can use it as a terminal to the Duet. You might have to adjust the baud rate. All the config is done by sending g codes with the right parameters as per the wiki.

My config files if they help at all: config.g homex.g bed.g cancel.g homeall.g homex.g homey.g homez.g pause.g resume.g sleep.g stop.g tfree0.g tpost0.g tpre0.g

I have had no problems. To connect via usb to initially set up the WiFi connection I used the serial monitor from the Arduino IDE.

The configurator is a good place to start and gives you a set of working config files. It's also worth upgrading your board to the latest firmware (1.20). Instructions on the duet wiki.

Is that correct? 220W on mains voltage is around an Amp, isn't it?

Yes, I'm using the 10A version for mine (SSR-10 DA). My silicon heater is 750W so about 3A.

Sounds like a plan

It's intended for taping together the heat insulating board you put down under laminate flooring. It's supposed to be moisture-proof so I thought it had a plastic coating on top of the aluminium. Does it smell at all when it gets hot?

I know what you mean - I was very sad taking my Prusa apart. Ironically I have now replaced most of the parts I harvested from it so I could put it back together in theory. I don't think I will though - I only have room for one printer in my office.

Yes, to be fair I only print with PLA and PETG at the moment. I see so many issues online (mainly Facebook) with people using PLA & PETG that have managed to pull flakes off their glass trying to get prints off before they have cooled. Then others advise them to use all sorts of things to get their prints to stick & come off easy. Hairspray seems to always come up plus all kinds of glue & slurrys. Makes me laugh sometimes. Clean surface & let it cool - pops right off for me

I have rolls of that left over from a laminate flooring project. Not sure I would want to stick it to my nice 3mm borosilicate glass. I've had no issues printing on glass ever. Lots of people on FB seem to use tape, glue, hairspray etc etc. Just need to keep it clean and let it cool before trying to prise it off.

Finally managed to get the 3 leadscrew upgrade installed & working. The old z motors are still installed on the centre bar - these will be removed at some stage. The new, single z motor is at the front now and drives the 3 screws via a belt. The motor pulley is 20t and the screw pulleys 60t giving a 3:1 reduction. Even so I still cant get it to run as fast as before. I had it going at 225mm/min but now it stalls above 150mm/min. I think the belt path needs to be improved to get it wrapped more around each pulley. Despite that it is still fast enough to trigger the piezo probe for the z endstop and ABL so its ok for now. The bed now goes up/down without tilting or twisting as witnessed by the mesh levelling output:

Yes, what Dave said. If you are planning to use the Duet on an existing printer you can plug the Ramps connectors into most of the Duet headers. I had to rearrange the motor and endstop pins on mine. Once I was happy it all worked I re-terminated all the cables using the supplied connectors.

Crimping time Although you can plug the normal duponts into the Duet beware - some of the pinouts are different. I also recommend using the Reprap Firmware Online Configurator to set up your initial configuration.

Projects have been suspended today in favour of taking down Xmas decorations. I could do without it all to be honest. I think I've got all the printed parts for the 3 leadscrew upgrade I've also bought all the necessary pulleys, belt, idlers, lock rings, bolts etc. I might get started on it again before the weekend (maybe).

Hmm. I see plenty of DBots in the 400 and 500 mm3 area using triple leadscrews and none using cord/drum for z movement. I'm not a mechanical expert by any means but I would guess leadscrews would give better accuracy which is the most important consideration. Speed and power needed/friction would be secondary. I suppose it depends whether you want a fast or accurate printer. <stands up, ready to be corrected>