tekkydave

Patience is a virtue. Practice if you can. Seldom found in Woman. And never found in Man.

I've not had any noticeable issues. I've just followed the manufacturers quoted voltage range in their instructions. It claims an accuracy way above what is achievable in practice. After all it could be several degrees out in physical alignment to North. At the time I bought it the cheap AAG weather station I had had just died due to water ingress. I wasn't happy with just having 16 point wind data and it was the only analogue one I could find on the market.

These are the parts on the manufacturers website Wind vane Anemometer Not sure if the anemometer is exact model I have - mine has a hall effect sensor not reed switch. They came with a 1-wire interface card which is sited in my external box containing the RPi. Looking back at the order email total cost was $245 at the time (Feb 2012). I had a good job back in 2012 so money wasn't an issue. Couldn't afford it now!

I cheated and bought a quality wind vane / anemometer from Hobby Boards in the U.S. Sadly they have since closed down. It's been outside on a mast since 2012 and no signs of deterioration in operation or performance (maybe shouldn't have said that).

It's a great idea. The x & y offsets are 0 and z is usually set to 0.1 - 0.2. I haven't got it working yet within the printer so watch this space

That's the idea. I haven't needed to replace any part of my E3D hotends apart from the nozzles due to wear.

Never had to replace a heatsink.

I have fitted the new Titan mount to the DBot x-carriage. The piezo sensor slides into the Titan's groovemount in place of the heatsink. The heatsink of the hotend then fits into the piezo sensor and is clamped in place. You lose about 18mm of z-axis which is acceptable on a 375mm build. I have done some basic testing but I need to reconfigure Marlin before testing it properly. I think I'll need to modify the E3D cooling fan as it is a bit loose on the heatsink and the vibrations are triggering the piezo!

Finally managed to get the Titan mount to print. The comms problems I was having between the Pi 3 and RAMPS have been resolved by changing the USB cable The print needs some cleaning up but looks more or less correct and is plenty rigid.

The code is in Java and you can have it if it helps. It is based on This article.

My raw wind data is all over the place but I do some consensus processing in the back-end to smooth it out.

Mine arrived last week but it was 'spirited away' to be wrapped in Xmas paper

No, haven't changed a thing.

Print failed unfortunately. I'll have another go tomorrow. Octoprint, which has been 100% reliable up till now is having issues with Marlin. Could be a Marlin issue I suppose but needs further investigation. I might try printing from PC using Pronterface or even from SD card.

Tried fitting the Piezo transducer a couple of days ago but it wont slide all the way into the Titan's groove-mount due to it catching on the DBot's Titan mount. I'm currently printing a redesigned mount giving enough clearance for the transducer to slide all the way in.

No obvious cause just motor vibrations. Lots of users report that changing drivers makes a huge difference. I'm sceptical but we'll see.

Mainly I'm hoping for quieter printing. I thought about upgrading my RAMPS to TMC drivers but the Duet has them built in. Anyway its an excuse to spend some money at Xmas

Once I've had a chance to try it hopefully I can give a good reason to upgrade. I've read reviews on FaceBook of people who have switched from RAMPS to Duet. They say it is capable of higher speeds and are much quieter due to the TMC drivers.

At some point, yes. I won't get my paws on it till Christmas Day so you will have to be patient

My mast started out as a 20ft telescopic mast which I had on the side of the house and projecting just above the roof line. It proved a pain for maintenance though so when I re-vamped the weather station I just used the top few sections and mounted it on the corner of the pergola (also self-designed & built ).

I got a box big enough to take more stuff if I wanted to later. I was thinking of integrating an All-sky camera on top of the pergola at some point but haven't got round to it yet. 3D printing has taken over my life

Pics of my weather station. RPi on left, buck converter at top. 12V is supplied from PSU in shed about 5m away. AAG device is air pressure, PCB above is rain gauge, and wing speed/direction. Home made Stephenson screen from plastic party dishes Inside is a device measuring air temperature & humidity Rainwise rain gauge. Measures 0.01" per tip. Had to import this from USA so wasn't cheap. Close up of RPi showing Sheepwalk 1-wire interface and WiFi dongle.

I have some pics I took during & after installation. I'll dig them out & post here. My mast is about 6m at a guess.

I used an RPi model B for the wserver1 - it doesn't need much power. The wstation is an RPi2 indoors.

I dont have a complete set of documentation but I have files that describes how to set up the weather server (outdoors) and weather station (indoors) so they connect to via Wifi. It assumes you will be using the Sheepwalk RPI2 module and a Wifi Dongle. See attached txt files wserver1 is the outdoor RPi wstation is the indoor RPi In theory you can have wserver2, wserver3 etc etc all connected to a single wstation. The sensors on each all get merged into a single file system on wstation. All you need to know is the 1-wire ID of all your sensors in order to query them. wserver1 RPi build.txt wstation RPi build.txt