SmokeyJoe

I would like to dip my toe in solar observation/imaging. So far I have come across three different types of 'clip on' filters with very little explanation of the difference between them. They are Bader Solar film Black polymer solar filter Type 2 glass solar filter Can anybody provide a simple explation of the differences. I'm using a 4" frac if it makes any difference.

Thanks for your prompt reply. I was aware of this, just wondered by how much, i.e. will there be a noticeable effect and given my setup whether it was worth spending £200, or do I put the money in the piggy bank towards a better mount or a dedicated astro cam.

Money is tight and I've been down many a wrong road persuing this wonderful frustrating hobby so I want to make sure I'm getting bang for my buck so to speak. I've got a couple of hundred quid to spend on astronomy and one of the items on my 'to buy' list is a reducer for my SW ed80. Currently using an EQ5, Canon 450D, ZWO 120mm through supplied SW finder scope for a guidescope all run from an Asiair Pro. Not too bothered about FOV at the moment (well not bothered enough to spend 200quid). Not too bothered about edge distortion (photshop crop). So given my current setup what practical difference can I expect between f7. 5 and f6. 37?

Ahhh didn't see them.... Thanks😊

Thinking of buying the Astromedia Newt for a friend's 10 year old. Just to see if he has any interest, then get him something decent in a year or twos time. Are these any good, my gut feeling is as its a newt it's got to be better than the 40 quid fracs on amazon. His mum is into all sorts of arts and crafts so assembly shouldn't be a problem. Not looking for amazing views of Saturn or anything just a decent view of craters on the moon.

Hi Wibblefish from another Norfolk resident.

I don't think there is a way to use the asiair on an AZ mount, you could check the ZWO forum https://bbs.astronomy-imaging-camera.com/t/asiair There is also a Facebook page that you Coul check

I suspect this is the cause of your problems.

Sorry to but in but I have a quick question, is there any point in using such a filter with an UNmodded DSLR? I have seen a number of images on places such as Astrobackyard but there is no mention of the camera being astro modded.

Been thinking about this myself but I don't think I'd get very far with an Ed80 and canon 450.

This is what I meant when I asked the question, as a newbie it might be good to have a list of targets that are easy to process.

During my planning session for tonight's supposedly clear skies (once again mid Norfolk is covered in fog). It occurs to me that there are certain well known 'beginners' targets that are relitivly easy to image such as Andromeda or the Pleiades. Are there similar easier targets to process using only DSS and photshop?

1. Asiair Pro. Everything from PA through guiding, auto focusing, imaging runs, darks, flats, filter wheel, controlling powered accessories such as dew straps. I have given up astronomy and restarted a number of times due to various reasons, mainly health and frustration. The asiair is a complete game changer. I don't know if it is as powerful as other laptop driven software but having everything on one interface that I can run from my tablet and from inside my nice warm house (once I have polar aligned) is a game changer. I was imaging within 30min of taking it out of the box. Best £300 quid I have ever spent. 2. Tablet. Runs planaterium software, and my Asiair, invaluable research tool, possibility of using it to produce flats, games to play while waiting for the clouds to clear. 3. Insulated coffee mug. Need I say more!

Gadgets like the Asiair Pro make setup much, much easier. On a good night I can go from sitting on the couch to imaging in about 15 min.

Although a field flattened is great for producing 'perfect' images there are quite a few of us that manage to produce decent images without one. Especially if you are learning.

I live in the middle of a new build estate on the edge of a market town in the Norfolk countryside. The skies are supposedly bootle 4 according to CO. My main problem with LP is that because of the design of the estate I am surrounded by houses. I can count at least 25 second story windows (most of which are lit in the evening) as well as the light glow from the ground floor and some third floor windows. Added to this are a few security lights, which light the garden indirectly. Got my head round scopes, mounts, cameras etc, but the sheer amount of filters is bewildering. Can any body recommend a suitable LP filter for imaging. I am currently using a 450D with a SW 80ED.

Love my 80ed but there are many other scopes out there, I don't have the experience of them to advise you, I'm sure someone will be along soon to do so. In the meantime if you haven't already download stellarium (I find the desktop version best) it will allow you to see how different targets will look with various combinations of equipment

+1 for the HEQ5. The mount is the most important part of your setup, get the best you can, even if it means only buying one scope for now. Have you considered a Dob for visual, just thinking they are dead easy to use, therefore good for the kids.

+1 for the Asiair over a laptop. So much easier and can be run from a power tank.

I use Co in combination with Nightshift, it shows the nights observing at a glance in a graphical format along with real time cloud maps, details of astronomical bodies, phases of the moon, and much more. Based on meteoblue, find it easier to read but not sure if it is more accurate than CO. Free on android again not sure about I phones.

Just playing about, took a couple of pics at very fast shutter speed of the quarter moon last month at the end of a DSO session and it was very over exposed on the edge of the sunlit half. Didn't think about dropping down the ISO, not used to proper cameras.

What are the ramifications of using a Barlow when imaging with a Dslr, this question came about because I was trying to find some way of getting my 1.25" moon filter to fit somewhere in my imaging train and the only way I could do it is to attach it to my 2x Barlow which will connect to my T ring. Originally I was going to image the moon, I had forgotten about my Barlow since concentrating on AP, and now I wonder what effect it would have when imaging smaller galaxies and nebula. The reason I ask is I can't recall reading anything about using a Barlow and a dslr, probably because the answer is so obvious. Going to try tonight anyway if the cloud ever goes. I'm using a SW 80ED and a Canon 450d.

It depends on the camera you buy. Any decent astro shop will tell you the correct one if you drop them an email or just ask here, someone will point you in the correct direction.

Not sure about the merits of indervidual cameras but I have also heard that canon are better than nikon. Articulated screen is more of a luxury than a necessity. I think if you are just staring out it doesn't matter that much which DSLR, there are many other things that will effect the quality of your images and you will probably end up wanting a dedicated astrocam. Which ever camera you get don't forget to get the correct T ring to connect it to your scope.

Hi Astrid, I don't know what country you are in but here you can buy a decent secondhand DSLR such as a Canon 450 for £60-£80, you will get far better results for deep sky than with a webcam.. There are companies on the Internet that specialise in buying and selling second hand camera equipment usually they give a 12 month guarantee. Web cams tend to be better for planitary imaging, if you do go down this route I had good results with an xbox 360 webcam if you can still find them, should cost nearer £20 than £100.