michael8554

Could you post a jpeg of the problem ? I have a Canon 6D Mk I, and I've never noticed a light leak in LiveView mode. You have the viewfinder blanked off, though that shouldn't matter in a dark room ? Weird. Michael

Which Filter ? Screeching or grinding noise suggests: Debris in the threads The filter is non-round, or has a tiny damaged section, so is binding on the lens as you screw in, possible with a cheap filter. The lens thread is non-round or has a tiny damaged section, causing binding. The filter thread is different to the lens thread, so is binding. Which may disappear if you screw in and screw out a few times. Michael

"sct' s with correctors." Do you mean "SCTs with Coma Correctors / Focal Reducers" ? Or Edge HD SCTs, which have correction lenses inbuilt ? My Meade SCT with a Baader Coma Corrector behaves like the "Too Close/Too Far Away" diagrams suggest. Michael

PHD2 doesn't mind if the guidecam isn't oriented with N/W. It all gets accommodated by the Cal. The red and blue lines not a 90 to each other is a problem called Orthogonality. If it's too far out PHD2 will advise. Michael

I have a Canon 6D, so use "Canon Utilities" to drive that. And PHD2 to guide the mount. iPhone 6 running ScopeBoss to wireless connect to the Meade LX200GPS. Michael

Hi Stuart 1. Those dozen or so lines in the GuideLog are setup info - which items would you like explained ? The graph shows outward steps as blue W1, W2 etc, and red N1, N2 etc. These should ideally be evenly spaced, groups of pairs show backlash and/or stiction. Bunching at the start of the N run would show you hadn't cleared Dec backlash before staring the Cal. And the faster return steps are colourless E4 to E0 , and N4 to N0. 2. But for info on how effective the Cal was, you should look at the report at the start of the next item in the GuideLog, "Guiding begins at......... " Michael

"So far I have not been able to see any images on either camera. " Try connecting the guidecam directly to the PC , not using the powered hub, or the hub in the 533MC Pro. With SharpCap software on the guidecam during the day. Auto-expose, and focus on a distant landmark. Then night-time connect the guidecam to PHD2 and adjust focus on the moon. As the moon is bright try with a fast exposure, say 0.5 seconds or less. Finally fine-focus on stars , exposure 2 seconds. As newbie said, go to the ZWO website, download and install the latest drivers. Michael

Hi Aayush I can see you've tried hard to improve RA guiding. "tracking performance is poor despite good PA." Poor PA causes Dec drift, not RA, your Dec behaviour is fine. Looking at the GuideLog, I see that there are two RA problems. 1. The main one is the failure of guiding to correct the cyclic Periodic Error, even at 100% Aggression: That could be due to tight RA bearings, or a loose RA worm. The mount has PE correction built in, but may be turned off, or have a poor correction model. Have you tried training the PE ? If you run for 10 minutes with guiding off you will see if the PE is as good as the iOptron spec of better than 7arcsecs. The graph does show 3arcsecs peak to peak, but mat be far worse with guiding off. 2. A lesser problem is the continuous spikes superimposed on the RA graph, which from other's posts is due to belt-drive problems. Michael

A few observations. Adding a 2X PowerMate will double the focal length - good for those smaller targets. But will double the f/ ratio to f/11.2, which will require much longer exposures. You might be better off just cropping the f/5.7 images. Why are you putting a 2X Barlow on the guidescope ? Michael

If you're not able to pass through infinity focus, you won't be sure that you have best focus. Since there's no CC or FR involved, which would require precise backfocus: Try removing the spacers and see if you can pass through best focus. Or add some more, I can never remember if you have to add or remove spacers to do that. Michael

"They are not cropped at all," You said "both are in cropped from a QHY268m and Ha 6.5nm filter," "have no idea how a picture of my rig helps " So that we can look for points where the image train could be sagging. Since you say everything is "rock solid", but it looks like something isn't. "and also on filter change of course," Ah, didn't know you use filters....... Is the filter wheel inside the FW housing loose enough to allow wobbling ? Short exposure subs remove guiding and stacking errors from the equation. Michael

"show a picture of…? My complete rig..?" Focuser, CC, FW, camera etc. Tooth_dr wanted some subs, not cropped stacks. Michael

Hi Stuart Please post an image of the setup. "autofocus at the start and runs continuously" Does that mean you refocus between each shot ? Michael

For Planetary a long focal length is required, with your 135mm lens the planets will be star-like dots. The 500D and 208-135mm will be fine for wide-field shots, applying the 500 Rule. Michael

Hi Lee As eyeballing and knobby's ASTAP image shows, a little tilt at bottom left. Michael

Hi David Also factor in that in temperatures down to 0C the capacity will degrade 20% or more. Don't let it discharge below 11.6 V. Michael

Hi Ed I don't have any of the software you have, I only have PaintShop Pro. Michael

Hi Bill Much better. R, G, B Black Levels need adjusting to remove the overall red caste. The bloated stars may be due to the "Sony Star Eater" problem I've heard of. Or lack of an IR Filter. Black level is correct but displays too bright here Michael

It's all in the eye of the beholder, as they say. To my eye the contrast of the image is low, the bright core of the galaxy is only at about 50%. Red and saturation are low, just boosting those brings up the Ha. I expect there are more subtle tweaks that would improve Ha.

Hi Bill The Orion Nebula is an easy target for imaging, but difficult to process. Because the central area is so bright compared to the rest. Requires a combination of short exposures that don't overexpose the central region and brighter background stars. With longer exposures that tease out the nebulosity. Michael

Hi Peter There is trailing in the same direction everywhere in the image. But worse bottom left. Which means Tilt. But the overall trailing could be due to guiding/tracking errors, is that a short exposure ? Michael

Hi Spedz "3d printed ring systems" Do you mean a Lens Collar like this ? Bolt the lens collar and the 700D to the dovetail, raising with spacers if necessary Michael

Parailum flares ? I don't think so...... 😆 Parachute flares are designed to stay at altitude for as long as possible, but obviously they do descend. It was just a suggestion. Michael

I wouldn't leave the sensor cleaner on Auto, because your Flats will be wrong if you accidently switch off before taking them ! You can still use the "Clean Now" option at the right time. I'm not sure what you mean by the "stronger" cleaner. The third mode "Clean Manually" doesn't do any shaking. It lifts the mirror and opens the shutter, so that you can clean the "sensor" with approved cleaning tools inserted into the camera. Have a read of the Instruction Manual. Michael

If that was towards Salisbury Plain I'd say it was military activity. Parachute flares, or Apache helicopters. Michael