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Everything posted by johninderby

  1. The Skywatcher dobs are very good with excellent optics, and the 10" has the advantage of a Pyrex mirror that cools down a lot quicker than the plate glass mirror of the Lightbridge. The 10" Flextube actually weighs a couple of kg more than the solid tube. The truss system of the Flextube adds more weight than the equivelent length of solid tube. I have the 10" Flextube Auto and swapped the OTA for the solid tube as it keeps colimation better and there is no need to buy a light shroud. The Flextube is shorter when collapsed so if storage space is really tight it can be an advantage. John
  2. There are a lot of good things about CN with some very knowledgeable people and a lot of useful information on it. Of course with such a wide range of people using it you encounter all types from the lunatic fringe element to those calm, considered and helpful ones. Being American based with the largest percentage of its users being American it's inevitable that it reflects a mainly American point of view and concentrates on what is available in the American market. Still though I would like to see a more outward looking viewpoint that reflects what is going on outside of the US. Perhaps some gentle encouragement and humour to "expand their universe" so to speak might help, although be aware that the American sense of humour is well..........American, and British humour doesn't always translate very well into American and can be taken the wrong way (windups in particular). John
  3. One of the best eyepiece bargains right now are the SkyWatcher SP Plossls which were recently reduced down to £19.90 for most fl. They're closer to the Televue plossls in peformance than they have any right to be considering the price. http://www.firstlightoptics.com/products.php?cat=121 John
  4. The Orion Megaview are the same as the UWAN / Nirvana but way overpriced in the UK. http://www.scsastro.co.uk/it030033.htm :eek::eek: Orion 4mm MegaView, 12mm Eye Relief - £179.00 Orion 7mm MegaView, 12mm Eye Relief - £179.00 Orion 16mm MegaView, 12mm Eye Relief - £219.00 Orion 28mm MegaView, 18mm Eye Relief - £379.00 John
  5. It's very easy to check that your laser is collimated. Simply rotate it while it's in the focuser and see if the spot stays in the same place on the primary or moves in a circle. It can be a bit difficult to collimate the Baader laser due to the shape of it. I simply put mine in a small bench lathe so that the red spot projected throiugh the hollow headstock onto the wall as I rotated the lathe by hand, and then collimated it. Do you know anyone with a small lathe? If not use a 1.25" to 2" eyepiece adaptor placed into a 2" hole in a piece of ply or thick cardboard and clamped onto something. John
  6. The UWAN 28's eyecup is the main reason I went for the Nagler 26 instead. I liked the performance of the UWAN 28 but just couldn't get on with eyecup. On the smaller UWANs the eyecup is just fine and I find them comfortable to use. Ultrawide FOV an insidious thing, once you get used to it you just don't want to go back. John
  7. It sounds like it is the lack of a coma corrector that is causing the comet tails that you're seeing. The main indicator that this is the problem is that it gets better in the short focal lengths and worse in the longer focal lengths. I found that over about 13mm the coma corrector becomes more effective. John
  8. I've found that the good dealers such as FLO, Ian King, OpticStar, Telescope House, Rother Valley Optics etc. always give me consistently great service, and if on the very, very rare occasion something does go wrong, it's sorted out immediately. I have to admit I still buy a few odd bits and pieces from Scopes'n'Skies, but it's a case of I couldn't find them elsewhere. For more expensive items I stick to the dealers that I can depend on. John
  9. Cloudynights does have many good points, but can also be home to some truly "unique" characters whose grasp on the real world is tenuous to say the least. I too find the moderation to be totaly inconsistant and heavy handed sometimes when it's simply not called for. I've found that you will get on just fine on Cloudynights if you follow these "rules" The only good telescopes are those made in America. America invented everything. Another thought.....How many Americans even know that the Herschel Space Telescope exists, let alone that it's mirror is nearly twice the diameter of their puny Hubble. John
  10. Same opinion here. Optically good but otherwise poorly constructed, and when there are other choices that are just as good optically but better built for the same money why bother. John
  11. The only problem with the Orion XX14i v the SkyWatcher 14" is that Orion is imported from the far east into the US first, and then sent on to the UK, hence the high prices charged in the UK. SkyWatcher on the other hand comes directly from the far east to the UK and so the prices in the UK are usually a fair bit less than Orion. I'm betting the SkyWatcher 14" will be a fair bit cheaper than the Orion 14" when it eventually is available here. John
  12. I used to have one and it was pretty good. Not quite as good as the Ultima, but not that far behind in performance either. For the money it's a good buy. John
  13. The tripods are different. While they both have 2" legs one has an CG5 top and the other has an EQ6 top. John
  14. Yes it's quite easy to do so long as you plan exactly where you want the foam removed. There's a bit of usefull info from one of the foam suppliers here. http://www.efoam.co.uk/pickpluck.html The Peli cases also have the same foam and are a bit better quality than the B&W cases but more expensive. Still it's a cheap price to pay to protect expensive eyepieces. John
  15. There's a very good article that goes into real detail on how to make a homemade dew heater on Dewbuster's website. http://www.dewbuster.com/heaters/heaters.html http://www.dewbuster.com/ They do make the best quality dew heaters avaiable, real industrial quality compnents used throughout. John
  16. Have you looked at Meade's videos on how to set up and use an ETX? http://www.meade.com/educational/etx%20videos/index.html John
  17. I've owned both, and FeatherTouch and MoonLite do indeed make superb 2" focusers. The 2" FeatherTouch is their cheapest bottom of the range model and they also make 2.5", 3.0" and 3.5" focusers. While there isn't a lot of difference in performance betwen the two 2" focusers the FeatherTouch is however more durable with better materials used in the key wear points and more precise machining. One focuser that really did surprise me was the Baader SteelTrack, very, very close indeed to the FeatherTouch and MoonLite in performance. John
  18. You could consider a Rubber Toughend Cyanacrylate as it stays a bit flexible and doesn't get brittle like regular superglue. John
  19. Nowadays I never rely purely on emails if I want to contact a company. If I don't get an answer back to an email after 1 business day I'll give them a call to see if they actually received my email. Also one big problem that affects businesses in particular is quite a few of their replies will get blocked by spam filters which will be much more aggressive in their blocking with business type emails. John
  20. It looks like more of the UWAN compared to Nagler type of thing. Very close in performance, and in slower scopes nothing to choose between them. If onlly the ES14 wsn't so big and heavy as that could put someone off buyimg the ES14 and instead go for the E13. John
  21. Having dealt with RVO for a few years and received the best possible service every time, I would give them the benefit of the doubt on this and put it down to an honest mistake. If a new batch came through they may not have realised that this lot were made in China. Based on my experience with them and the way they treat their customers you don't have to worry about a full refund. I'd be surprised if they don't apologise to you for the mistake as well. John
  22. I think that one factor that is often left out of these discussions is the differences in peoples vision. What is the best eyepiece for one person may not be for someone else. Nearsightedness or farsightedness, astigmatism etc. may mean that one eyepiece design is uncomfortable for them to use and so a supposedly inferior design may actually work better for them. I suppose you could say that "No one eyepiece fits all". John
  23. I never actually used the barlow element with the Paracorr as I got the MPCC just after I got the barlow and had only checked to see if the barlow element would clear when used with the Paracorr and sold the Paracorr before I had the chance to test it. I agree with the previous post. You don't have to try and take in the entire FOV when looking through the ETHOS. Just look straight through and then if something catches you eye off to one side just look over in that direction. To me it's more natural and more like normal vision without a telescope as if you see something out of the corner of your eye you just naturally look in that direction to see what it is. John
  24. Hi You have to remove the 1.25" eyepiece adaptor and replace it with the 2" adaptor (should be packed in accs. box that came with the scope). Here's a photo of a focuser from a 10" Skywatcher with the 2" adaptor in place. John
  25. The Orion SkyQuest XX12 is only a push to dob (digital setting circles) not motorized. In the UK it is way overpriced for what it is, as it is imported into the USA from the far east and then imported again into the UK. SkyWatcher is imported directly into the UK from the far east hence the lower prices. There are other options, the best being the StellarCAT drive system, but that's about £1,500, not including the Argo Navis DSC needed to make it GOTO. The Dob Driver is much cheaper but somewhat limited. Otherwise consider an equitorial platform, only an hours tracking but better for astro photography. John
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