fwm891

If you're wanting to observe then set your pier height so you see things like M81/82 when they're overhead without needing a ladder.

About 4 or 5 replies down...

No it doesn't have to be a mini PC. I was reading a post by Sara Wager in another thread where she has ditched her mini computers in favour of a Dell desktop. Which has prompted this thread as to their suitability for astro control/capture. It's just for storing captured images, flats, darks, bias etc and running SG Pro, PHD2 etc., close to the scope but with an ability to 'see' what's happening remotely - circa 8 mtrs away without cables running between observatory and conservatory... Transfer of images will most likely be via camera card at the end of a session. Image processing will be carried out in the house on my main desktop PC.

I'm in the process or revamping the 'control side' of things. Currently I have been running cables (power and USB 2.0 -3.0) from the conservatory to the scope/mount on the patio which has not been without its connection problems. So as I'm getting ready to build a small observatory to have a more permanent set-up I'd also like to reduce/eliminate cables if possible. I will be wanting to control an iOprton CEM60, Lakeside focuser, SX 825 camera and filterwheel, couple of Nikons, couple of ASI uncooled cameras, with other additions to follow I'm sure... The ASI cameras (120MM & 178CM) are both USB 3.0, other kit at present are all USB 2.0 and are grouped through either a USB3.0 powered hub or similar powered USB 2.0 hub back via cables to the laptop. Out of choice I run SG Pro for capture, pointing etc, PHD2 for guiding. I use backyard Nikon occasionally as it's simpler than setting up SG Pro especially if I'm only intending to shoot one target in a session. Plus CdC to see what's coming up of interest. I have Sharpcap and Fire Capture which I intend to get round to with the 178MC at some stage. I'm thinking a mini computer/laptop would be the way to go as dedicated software can be loaded and run remotely. But is it the better solution or is there something else I should be looking at... Reasoned suggestions please would be very helpful. Francis

Is it your flat's causing the problem, as usually they would have removed any unevenness in illumination provided you didn't alter anything between taking the lights and doing the flats. Bias and darks can be done 'off scope'?

I did actually look at the "drawer runner" variant. I looked at the time to take the roof out sideways as the obsy will be rectangular (slightly) narrower one way. I've chosen the twin rails so I can run the roof past the end wall opening a little more sky to the east. I'm still thinking about putting an angled end to the roof above the door but the extra complications in construction and covering out weigh any real/percieved benefit. Thanks for all the comments - keep em coming...

Well the model has progressed if nothing else... Please excuse the panel pin axles, and the brace round the wrong way and... (anything else)

You need another scope to cut out complicated decision making...?

No, the Flat 73A is set to 11.4 (on the WO scale - probably mm but not sure?) then the 48mm T camera adapter. Total. If your using a cooled camera (CCD or CMOS) then some adapter will be needed to make up the difference between a dslr and short back focal plane cameras. My pic's above were without the flattener in place - Han Solo has a flattener. Mine with guide scope. Flat 73A and D5100 on Star Adventurer

I have a lathe and some small lenses...

I broke the main block up but the obsy wall foundations I simply constructed a square raised bed garden with a few brick courses and filled it with dirt top soil and a few plants...

I have to say I hate Sketch-up. Never got on with it even the basics...

When we moved house taking the pier was the easy part but breaking up the block the pier rested on was another matter. Why did I break it up? because if the new owners broke a wrist because their spade struck a block of concrete who's liable? If you tell them there's a meter cube of concrete under their lawn they're likely to make it a condition of sale it's removed or walk away... Just a thought...

Decided to try building a model at 10th scale - nowhere near finished, braces to add, sleepers, cladding, etc., etc...

If your testing something the set-up must be as tight as possible otherwise the test is pointless. Even if you are intentionally off-setting your PA, off-set it a good amount so you can clearly see errors.

They were curved but no bright spots along the length - sorry dumped them.

Hi James - If it is a serious error and the drive wheel is a little eccentric then there may be a speed variation causing the brighter patches...?

First do a good PA with the weight of the camera/lens etc on the SA then try your exposures again. My first results were similar because I 'had to use it' but never took the time or care over the initial set-up. Mine works fine now with a 430mm fl scope mounted and DX format camera. These images were taken with mine when reviewing a WO ZS 73 APO:

I turned mine through 90° putting the fine focus knob on top where it's easy to get to.

Well I for one am not happy about the iOptron CEM60 problems - been waiting 6-7 weeks now. My iEQ45 Pro guided extremely well whether I used a separate guide scope or OAG, it's only that I want to put a heavier scope on a mount and tandem mount two smaller scopes that I'm going for the CEM60. I've seen a friends results directly with his CEM60, OAG guided with a 9.25" Edge HD on board and the results are superb - one reason I hit the buy but with FLO for a CEM60 - come on iOptron fix it quick. Seems TS have the EC version in stock...

Awkward with the high heels though!

Yes. I ran a bead of bitumen sealer around the edge of the ground board (read sleeper) / slabs before and could find no evidence of water ingress when I had to dismantle the thing. New sleepers have an expectancy of 10-15 yrs, I'm just about 68 now so if they rot in 15 yrs time I'm not sure I'll be too worried...

That's essentially what I did with my previous obsy. I used a plastic DPC as a skirt running from under the lower shiplap and down over the sleeper.

Thanks All for the track input. Looking at the wall/bearer cross sections hopefully self explanatory. Not a great deal of loading as the obsy will be quite small. Footings: scalping's with a very liquid cement binding. Paving slabs over the footings with treated sleepers spreading the loading across the slabs. Waterproof membrane comes next with the floor joist bearer's pinning the membrane to the sleepers. Joists to support the T&G flooring. Walls sit on a weather board to take water away from the structure, Treated shiplap cladding over a CLS frame - internal cladding in 12mm OSB...