malc-c

Do you have the option to show hidden folders enabled ? Should have four folders inside AppData - Local, LocalLow, Roaming and System

Sounds like a result then What value cap did you use as a replacement and did you replace both as advised ?

Looking into this further it would seem the cable uses a ZT230E level shifter in addition to the 232TR FTDI chip, so the 5v TTL USB serial levels get boosted by the ZT230 to +/- 12v on the TX and RX serial lines - I'll be amazed if you haven't fried your board ZT230 data sheet

Just goggled that and found this That's the worrying part. If its a true RS232 level adapter that means the TX/RX lines could be at true RS232 levels of +/- 12v (ie a 24v differential) which may have blown the motor board. Looking at the specs for Cisco console it does indeed seem to be a standard true RS232 spec and not a TTL serial port.

Just to clarify the direct hard wired connection options. If your mount is new and has a USB type B socket you can use a standard A - B USB cable between the mount and the computer. The port on the computer needs to be set to 115200 baud, and under windows will need the Prolific VCP driver to be downloaded and installed. On older mounts you use an EQDIR cable. This has a USB to TTL Serial adapter built in, with one end being a standard A type USB plug, with the other end terminated in the same connector used by the handset. This would be an RJ or 9 pin D type plug depending on the mount. (EQ6 uses D type). This connection requires the baud rate to be set to 9600 If the handset is a late version with an B type USB socket, then you can use a standard A to B USB cable between the computer and the handset. The handset is then connected to the mount as normal. The handset may need to be placed in PC-DIRECT mode to act as pass-through. If the handset lacks a USB port then you can use a serial cable which is often supplied with the handset. This connects to the smaller RJ port on the handset and has a 9 pin D type connector on the other end. This can be connected to an old PC which has a standard serial (COM) port. If the computer lacks the old style COM port then you will need a normal USB to SERIAL adapter. The problem comes when people use a standard USB to SERIAL adapter thinking is the same as an EQDIR adapter and end up blowing the micro controllers on the motor board in the mount. After doing so, when the handset is plugged back in the handset typically displays the message "No response " with either RA, DEC or BOTH axis. If this occurs then the only option is to either replace the motor board with a new one, typically costing around £150, or if the motor board uses a pair of 16F886 PIC microcontrollers, have them replaced with two new ones that have been programmed with the firmware for the mount in question. To delete the EQMOD files - Uninstall the driver via Programs and Features (EQASCOM) and then delete the folder or files found in C:\Users\[ user name]\AppData\Roaming\EQMOD - or just delete the INI and TXT files in that folder Hope that helps. If you have any further issues please clarify which of the four connection methods above you used.

I rest my case --- Nice images Michael

Well looks like tonight will be the first chance.... Combination of health issues and weather delayed things... tonight it's all come together

On paper the Evostar 72ED / EQ3 is a good match. The mount is rated at 5kg for imaging and with the Evostar coming in at a shade under 2kg this still leaves plenty for cameras and a guidescope. The focal length of 5.8 is still quite fast, but the optional reducer brings that down to 4.9 so you may wish to consider getting that if the images seem a little dull or you need a wider field of view. The mount will have a polar scope, but using Sharpcap's excellent alignment tool its easy to fine tune the PA in minutes. On the negative side, the mount appears to use friction plates rather than ball bearings on one, if not both axis, which some people recommend are replaced with quality bearings. However doing so will void the warranty if purchased new. You will also find that people will suggest for this reason, and to cater for futureproofing that you look at the EQ5. Then people will say that if you are considering the EQ5 pro goto then go for the better precision of the HEQ5... and then... well you get the idea. It all depends on you budget, if you want a fixed or portable rig, and what you expectations are. There are lots of people using the EQ-3 pro with small refractors or reflectors and getting some really good results. Granted they may have to put more effort in to get the rewards out compared to a more capable mount, but that can be part of the "fun" of imaging.

All well documented on this forum and on the EQMOD website. As TomatoBro states, we've all been there at some point Only the newer synscan units based on the ARM processors and have a USB port (with a prolific chilpset built in) operate at 115200 baud. If you are using an EQDIR cable that uses the FTDI chipset (such as the Lynx Astro) the driver should be natively installed by Windows if you are using that platform. But thanks for sharing

If you spend a little time sat down with a cuppa or a glass of beer and browse through similar threads on starting DSO imaging or astrophotography you'll see that three things are mentioned as being preferable or essential Mount Aperture Focal length Whilst an Alt/Az mount is capable of being used for imaging they suffer from field rotation. The idea it to try and get as sharp an image as possible through stacking multiple images, with as few defects or trailing of stars as possible. So any images stacked over a full night will have rotation in them which is another factor the stacking software has to deal with, and depending on the severity you may find the software rejects most, if not all of them as a result. So an EQ mount is more suited as it cancels out field rotation, and is easier to guide for long exposures. Aperture and focal length are tied together, and define the focal ratio. Your scope is F10, which is really good for luna and planetary imaging as you get high magnification with long focal lengths, and being 8" aperture lots of detail. However, when it comes to faint DSO's a faster, short focal length is desirable. Most would say that F5 or F4 are the "ideal" focal ratio, so for an 8" that would be 1m focal length. Now adding a focal reducer to scopes with longer focal lengths can work, but ideally you want to put as fewer lumps of glass between the camera and the target. But it still gives a workable solution. Personally, I would start with the DSLR route. Look for an old Canon camera (D450 or similar) that can be picked up fairly cheaply, and a suitable T ring to fit it to the scope. This way you can dip your toe in the water without wasting a lot of cash on dedicated and sensitive astro cameras only to find that the equipment you have is restrictive for the needs, and whilst a handful of bright DSOs are fine, the limitations of the hardware can be found when turning to the fainter targets.

I agree. So much stuff use wi-fi that there is now a lot of competition for bandwidth. We use to have issues when turning remote controlled RGB lighting on would wipe out any DAB radio in the room.

I've had some experience repairing motorboards (documented here) I've also replaced the two capacitors on my HEQ5 board which is a straight forward task, however I would suggest using capacitors of the same uF value, but at a higher voltage rating such as 50v - 100v - The reason is that the PSU generates around 30-35v to drive the steppers, so the factory fitted ones are really on the limit. - Best to replace both, which should still give you change out of a quid. Just note the polarity. Try that first and if you are still getting running issues and you are sure your 12v power brick is rated for all the equipment (personally I prefer to power the mount via its one 13.8v 5amp supply), then report back and we can try a few other things Personally I can't comment if the strange slewing behaviour is related to the blown cap, as I don't use a Pi and associated software, or dongle ( which could also be a problem if the wi-fi signals are being corrupted). A way to rule the dongle out is to use either an EQDIR cable between the computer / pi and mount, or if your handset is a new version with USB port, use an A-B USB cable and place the handset in PC-DIRECT mode so it acts as a pass through to the mount and control the mount that way. This would confirm if the issue is with corrupted wi-fi signals. Hope that helps

The "no response" message simply means the handset doesn't get an acknowledgement back when the handset sends the commands to the motorboard in the mount to enquire what firmware (and mount) it is communicating with. The cause can be several things. The speed of the serial communication may be different (the default is 9600, but some mounts operate at 115200, especially through a direct USB connection to a PC for example ). It can be a fault in the cable, or which often seems the case, the Processors on the motor board are damaged, often through connecting either the wrong serial adapter / USB cable, or connection of the handset to the wrong port. It may be that your swapping handsets around has blown the UARTS on the micro controllers in the mounts. Have a read of This long thread which covers the repair of selected motor boards that use PIC 16F886's However, you state that the two affected mounts work fine when connected to a PC, which would suggest that the processors are fine, which is the confusing part. How are you making that connection, via USB or through an EQDIR cable ?

I I'm confused... you say the handset states its slewing to target but the mount doesn't move... but then say you watched the gears and it all works.... If the motors are running and the mount slews but then stalls or skips then I agree, it does indeed sound as if the worm gear has too much slop in it and needs adjusting

If the handset displayed a "no response" message for either or both axis that would suggest that the issue is a damaged control board. The fact the handset is displaying "slewing" and other information would suggest that the communications between the handset and motor board in the mount are fine, and the issue is more mechanical rather than electrical (unless the power keeps dropping due to a damaged port which would stop the mount slewing). When you say the mount doesn't slew, is it still making noises, ie the motors are running or do the motors stop. Is the mount belt driven or does it have the original gearing. ? In either case it's worth removing the cover over the motors to check the gears are meshed or the belt still has tension. I would also slacken off the worm gear on both axis and check that the mount rotates in both axis without binding. If it binds with the worm disengaged then it would suggest that the issue is mechanical, which could be bearings or a bent shaft. If it freely rotates in both axis, and both motors turn correctly then maybe it's just a case of remeshing the drive train for both axis which hopefully resolves the problem. Even the motorboard can be fixed if it turns out to be the suspect. - have a read of this thread

Daz, your nearest Astronomical Society is ASH and it may be that they have members local to you (they cover Barnet) who may be able to help - might be worth dropping them a line.

Normally a fitting of a belt system removes the graunching sound!! If you remove the belt and run the RA stepper, do you hear the same grinding sound? - Just trying to rule out bearings on the motor or harmonics in the motor coils caused by the pulsing from the controller. With the belt removed, if you rotate the pulley attached to the worm gear, does it feel free to rotate with fingers, and can you / do you feel any resistance or anything grinding. Check the alignment and tension of the belt when refitting - was there any evidence of belt wear ?

As you are based in Mersyside it may be worth contacting the Liverpool AS with a plea for someone to come out and have a look at the mount for you. It maybe something they can do in the daytime and then if the mount checks out maybe pop round on a clear night and check the alignment for you

Carole, not sure if this is helpful, but someone posted their images as they were having issues stacking. They were taken on an AZ mount. I've just taken the first and last image and overlaid them as two layers in Photoshop, and then rotated one layer until the stars overlap (as good as I could ) to show the angle the image has rotated between the two. It's not perfect, but hope that helps

My suggestion would be to remove the USB cable form the handset and plug it into the USB socket on the synscan box. In fact as you are using a PC for control there is no need to have the handset connected at all, and it can be disconnected and removed (with the power off before doing so). I have no idea what "driver" you used for an HEQ5, but I'm guessing you mean you selected HEQ5/EQ6 form the list in EQmod. This should be OK as EQMod gets the information of the mount when it first connects and interrogates the mount. When you connect the synscan unit direct to the PC it should detect the serial port and add it to windows Device manager. You will need to go into the properties of that port and set the speed (baud) rate to 115200 rather than 9600 as before. In EQmod you will need to change the port number to the new one windows will have allocated to this new connection. Open up EQMOD and set the pulse guiding threshold to 0.9x for both axis Remove the ST4 cable altogether and connect the guide camera directly to the PC via USB. In PHD2 you should be able to select the camera in the equipment chooser rather than the "on camera" option. Likewise select the mount from PHD2's connection interface. This will mean PHD2 will have direct access to the camera, and have fine pulse control of the mount when guiding. I can't comment on NINA and the plate solving issue as I don't use NINA Hope that helps - it should simplify your "wiring"

Just googled the topic and found the following video which suggests this is the "normal" method of attaching the motors as it too uses just one bolt. Not sure if someone has come up with an alternative, but seeing the project is open source I would have assumed someone would have produced new brackets if the existing ones are not up to the task ? Maybe google thingyverse (sp) to see if anyone has any better bracket design ?

Could be a balance issue, backlash issue or something else such as cable drag... posting the log files would help rule out or confirm possible causes

The reason being is that for the most part everyone on SGL is friendly and has been through the same learning curve with equipment and technique.

I's amazing how the sales pitch to launch these satellites was to provide internet access to the poorer regions of the world where traditional internet solutions can't work out.... looking at the coverage map I never realised just how poor America, Europe and Australia are 🙄

Now I'm no expert when it comes to imaging, but here's some of my observations based on the 77 subs.. Clearly there is field rotation suggesting the mount is an Alt/Az type rather than an EQ type. This in its self is not an issue, but field rotation adds in one additional factor that the processing has to deal with, and that can lead to bloated or odd shaped stars. It also means that polar alignment is not as precise as an EQ mount as you are reliant on the algorithms in the software once you've told the mount which stars you have aligned on. Darks and flats would help with contrast and removing any rouge noise from the camera. Not sure if guiding is an option as I think PHD2 only works with EQ mounts, but if that is possible, then using a guide scope and camera would / should keep the stars nice and round