Anybody have any experience on cleaning an FSQ106EDX

[Sheliak]

Hi!

I have read several articles on how I should properly clean a refractor. I've also cleaned once a SW Ed80 using the Baader optical-wonder cleaning fluid. But when it comes to my FSQ106 I'm a bit more nervous on the procedure. 

I found these instructions http://scopeviews.co.uk/HowToCleanLens.htm which  I find really helpfull. What worries me, is whether the same procedure, with the Baader cleaning fluid and the lint-free lens wipes, is safe on the FSQ lens. 

Any advice whould be most appreciated!!

Thanks!

BTW, my first post on SGL hi to all!!

[Peter Drew]

My first question would be, does the objective really really need cleaning yet?. Owners of high end equipment are naturally sensitive about its condition but it is generally accepted that common cosmetic intrusions such as dust have little or no affect on the performance, if coming up for sale it might make a difference. I would be confident that if necessary, following the linked instructions carefully would result in a successful outcome. 

[perfrej]

Sheliak,

Contrary to what many people say, I say keep it clean. Baader wonder fluid has the property of dissolving the bad stuff in pollen, something I have learned is very important as the natural chemicals of pollen eat the coatings - which the correct fluid does not. I use either clean water with a nano-drop of mild soap or Baader fluid, the latter preferred. Use only high quality cotton pads, no cloth; one for cleaning gently and a few to wipe it reasonably dry.

The Tak, being air spaced, is sensitive to fluid ingress into the lens cell, so keep fluid use low but not to point of the lens being dry anywhere when you clean it.

This is how I keep my FSQ-106 and my TEC-140 clean

Microfiber... I actually dislike that stuff very much. It MUST be absolutely new if used on optical components as the fibers have recessions (cross section looks like an asterisk) that collect material. It is plastic fibers, so they should scratch more than cotton but will make smaller scratches. If you're into environmental friendliness you should stay clear of them... Here's from Wikipedia on that subject:

Microfiber textiles tend to be flammable if manufactured from hydrocarbons (polyester) or carbohydrates (cellulose) and emit toxic gases when burning, more so if aromatic (PET, PS, ABS) or treated with halogenated flame retarders and aromatic dyes. Their polyester and nylon stock are made from petrochemicals, which are not a renewable resource and are not biodegradable. However, if made out of polypropylene, they are recyclable (Prolen).

For most cleaning applications they are designed for repeated use rather than being discarded after use. (An exception is the precise cleaning of optical components where a wet cloth is drawn once across the object and must not be used again as the debris collected and now embedded in the cloth may scratch the optical surface.) In many household cleaning applications (washing floors, furniture, etc.) microfiber cleaning fabrics can be used without detergents or cleaning solutions which would otherwise be needed.

There are environmental concerns about this product entering the oceanic food chain. However, no pesticides are used for producing synthetic fibres (in comparison to cotton). If these products are made of polypropylene yarn, the yarn is dope-dyed; i.e. no water is used for dyeing (as with cotton, where thousands of litres of water become contaminated).

All the best,

Per

[StuartJPP]

I would get a rocket blower and a proper brush (camel hair) to help remove any grit or abrasives before wiping with any cloth or wipes...just my 2p. Don't use the brush for any other purpose.

No amount of blowing with a rocket blower could cause damage and afterwards a light dusting with the brush into the edges followed by one last blow.

Once the above has been done then I basically follow Per's method...with a brand new lens friendly lint free cloth every time.

[perfrej]

Agreed, Stuart - blow away

/p

[swag72]

Use only high quality cotton pads

Would this be cotton wool pads, such as these http://www.boots.com/en/Boots-Cotton-Wool-Double-Faced-Pads-Round-1-x-100-Pads_1115751/?

Interested to know if it's normal cotton wool pads or something different that you use.

[nightfisher]

You have my sympathy on this, as in the next few days i have to dismantle my beloved TAL 100rs and clean between the lens elements due to the start of mould, i had been storing it in a damp place, its just at the early stage but has to be done, at least i have found it early

[Peter Drew]

Good luck with that one Jules, the Tal objective is a rather tricky one to dismantle and reset. 

[nightfisher]

Good luck with that one Jules, the Tal objective is a rather tricky one to dismantle and reset. 

Thats what i am thinking, i know what im doing with most refractor objectives, Peter have you ever dismantled a TAL lens set, if so can you give me any pointers, i plan to slacken 2 of the collimation screws by 1/2 turn before raising the glass out of the holder, of course i will then mark pencil ref lines on edge

[perfrej]

Would this be cotton wool pads, such as these http://www.boots.com/en/Boots-Cotton-Wool-Double-Faced-Pads-Round-1-x-100-Pads_1115751/?

Interested to know if it's normal cotton wool pads or something different that you use.

If those are 100% natural fibers they're perfect! I use a similar pack available in Sweden - no Boot's here

/per

[perfrej]

Oh, the love and joy of oil-spaced I wish the Tak was, like the TEC.

/per

[hughgilhespie]

Just to say that I understand that there are different grades of cotton wool and for optical cleaning you should only use BP grade which is just pure cotton with nothing added. Most chemists should stock this.

Regards, Hugh

[Sheliak]

My first question would be, does the objective really really need cleaning yet?

It is not an absolute necessity to clean the lens at the moment. I'm just in the process to find the best way to clean it for when that is needed.  

I would get a rocket blower and a proper brush (camel hair) to help remove any grit or abrasives before wiping with any cloth or wipes...just my 2p. Don't use the brush for any other purpose.

I have no experience with a camel hair brush. I've heard of people using it but never tried it by myself. Is there any branded one just to be sure of what I'm buying? 

So I'm coming to the following conclusion. The first step is a blower and a gentle dusting with a camel hair brush. After that, if it's necessary, using as a cleaning solution the Baader Optical Wonder, with the cotton pads, cleaning with ''wipe-dab'' motions.  And finaly ''polishing'' the ''breath-moistened'' lens with a microfiber cloth and the same ''wipe-dab'' motions. 

But what's the procedure on the last step when someone is not willing to use a microfiber cloth? Is ''polishing'' not necessary? I think that after applying the solution there are some residues left. Maybe the same procedure but replacing the microfiber cloth with the cotton pads?

After all I think that cleaning an air spaced refractor is a bit more demanding job to do.. Thanks for all the response!

[StuartJPP]

You can use any soft bristle brush but one made with camel hair is recommended for camera lenses. Mine is a no name brand, probably from Amazon or a craft shop that I got years ago. It is basically to dislodge any stubborn grit before any wiping with a cloth...

[perfrej]

Same type of cotton pads until dry...

[ollypenrice]

In truth the coatings are incredibly hard. Follow the advice but above all don't wipe twice with the same cloth face because anything it has picked up may be stuck to the cloth. I use a pair of old Fluorite Taks which have been much cleaned and thery are perfect. You have very little to fear.

Olly