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1/4" audio plugs for power?


jnb

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Is there any good reason to not use 1/4" audio plugs for connecting power?

In building my own power tank I was looking for something to use for the actual power connections and I have a load of 1/4" mono plugs and sockets. As I see it the advantages are that I have them already, they combine PCB and chassis mounting so it would be quite a neat connection and my experience is that they feel quite solid. On the other hand I don't recall seeing anyone else use them so it there a reason to not use that style of connection?

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The big problem with jack plugs and phono plugs for that matter is what you put on the other end of them because the positive tip is unshrouded. I have built a 12v power box using DC-DC that convertors  powered from a battery or 12v adaptor that supplies my mount, camera, phone using phono connectors on the outputs but not on any inputs.

Alan

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The big problem with jack plugs and phono plugs for that matter is what you put on the other end of them because the positive tip is unshrouded. I have built a 12v power box using DC-DC that convertors powered from a battery or 12v adaptor that supplies my mount, camera, phone using phono connectors on the outputs but not on any inputs.

Alan

As you insert the plug the tip will momentarily touch each pole of the socket in turn. May not be an issue but worth being aware of. I am using xlrs but they aint cheap.
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I had considered banana plugs (on the same basis that I've got a box full of them) but decided against it because it doubles the number of plugs. I would have preferred to use something like 12V car sockets but as I haven't got a box full of those I was looking for alternatives.

What's on the other end of them? A mixture of direct connections to equipment (dew control etc) or 5mm plugs to connect to drives etc.

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Can't say I liked them for audio though better than DIN plugs and sockets.  "Don't spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar" and remember you're connecting valuable equipment.  Do the job properly - use XLRs :)

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I assume you'd be using the sockets on the power supply side, and the plug would be attached to the equipment (so there wouldn't be any powered, exposed metal surfaces to short together)..

The only issue I can think of is that the "hot" connection to the tip of the plug is made by quite a small area of metal within the socket. You could find that you're drawing a spark as you plug in or out - though you may not notice it, as it would be deep inside the socket. While that wouldn't hurt the plug too much, as the circular shaft means that different parts of the plug would make the connection each time, the same piece of metal in the socket would always be on the receiving (or giving) end of the spark. Over time this could be the source of corrosion and intermittent behaviour.

You could also find that if the remote equipment contained a capacitor of some size, that as you withdrew the plug out of the socket, both the plug body and tip could contact the wall of the socket, thus shorting the capacitor. That quick discharge *shouldn't* harm it, but it might be something to bear in mind. If you were extremely unlucky, that momentary conact wouldn't occur until the plug body was clear of the socket, so you'd be applying + Volts to the "ground" side of your power supply.

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I would go for female sockets at the "live" end i dont think there is any relevent convention apart fron the ground but XLRs give you the option of different voltages available on each pin so you can standardise all your sockets and have different wired leads for their respective voltage requirements.

Alan

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I would go for female sockets at the "live" end i dont think there is any relevent convention apart fron the ground but XLRs give you the option of different voltages available on each pin so you can standardise all your sockets and have different wired leads for their respective voltage requirements.

Alan

I am planning to use 5-pin XLRS. Capacity for 4 voltages. Initially 12V (scope), 7.5V (Canon 1100D), 5V (misc) plus 1 spare pin for future expansion.

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I am planning to use 5-pin XLRS. Capacity for 4 voltages. Initially 12V (scope), 7.5V (Canon 1100D), 5V (misc) plus 1 spare pin for future expansion.

I have a similar set of voltages, i find the 5V very useful for powering my phone running DSLR remote, you could use the spare as a sense wire if you wanted to fine tune the cable voltage drop or as a current sense with a low voltage resistor to ground.

Alan

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I have a similar set of voltages, i find the 5V very useful for powering my phone running DSLR remote, you could use the spare as a sense wire if you wanted to fine tune the cable voltage drop or as a current sense with a low voltage resistor to ground.

Alan

Don't give me any more ideas to think about - I have too many half-finished projects as it is :grin:

I am planning to put 1 or 2 12V dimmer modules in the power box for dew control. These will be 12V and on 3-pin xlrs to avoid plugging in to the wrong socket in the dark. I have the nichrome wire already (one of my "not yet started" half-finished projects).

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Don't give me any more ideas to think about - I have too many half-finished projects as it is :grin:

I am planning to put 1 or 2 12V dimmer modules in the power box for dew control. These will be 12V and on 3-pin xlrs to avoid plugging in to the wrong socket in the dark. I have the nichrome wire already (one of my "not yet started" half-finished projects).

That's kind of what I have at the moment. 6V for some legacy stuff and a few 12V channels including three 12V channels linked up to a recycled PWM for dew control. The idea of connecting in such a way that any socket will provide any voltage is appealing but the three PWM channels will still need to be handled separately.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Has anybody thought of using Caravan plugs and sockets? they are made for dc the older type have 2 pins set at 45degs newer ones have 1 pin larger both are impossible to plug in backwards or mix up. Available in any caravan shop and made to take 10 Amp I think they are Ideal (but having a box full "hint") may bias me.

   Bob

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