Here is the beginning...Materials used:
2. Plastic rubber cement
3. Small flat head and phillips screw drivers.
4. Gerber or small saw blade with a knife to smooth edges out.
5. 1.25" PVC plumber pipe (grab the cheapest one you can find I spent $1.24 for this on pictured)
1. Unscrew lense from camera and remove...it will screw out just a little ways, but find the light gray clip on outerpiece and pop it off casing to unscrew it the rest of the way and remove it.
2. Remove the front casing from the camera body...this is by far the most tedious task and it will mess up the casing as stated by Cliff. You want the flat head to slide to the front of the casing not the back like it looks like you should be doing. Dont worry about hitting the board as working the flat tip into the crack will contact a plastic clear piece that connects in side of the casing...this is what needs to be pryed out to get the front piece to come off...take you time it is a bit of a hassle to get off. If someone else finds an easier way please share this.
3. Remove two screws on the board and the two screws holding the USB cable and bottom mount to remove the back plate of the case.
4. Remove the two screws on the back of the board that hold the IR cut filter and it will fall right off...this is the point when you need to start being a bit careful so you don't mess up the chip.
5. Here is a close up of the board. In this step we want to destroy the LED lights on the board so the heat from them doesn't effect the chip. I have lebeled them for you but to find all four I just plugged the camera into the computer for a split second and saw their location.
In order to break them, I used a pair of needle nose pliers to crush them...the top two you can crush fron the sides of the LED and the bottom two because of other components you need to crush them from the top...be careful doing this as it can damage the board (it doesn't take a lot of pressure). To test them just plug the camera back into the computer and run sharpcap.
Link to large picture: Click Here
6. Now screw your board and usb mount back onto the back casing and then clip the front mount back onto the back mount of the case.
7. Lastly, cut a 2" pice of the 1.25" pvc pipe, smooth it out with a knife or sand paper and cement it onto the camera's front mount...let set and enjoy the views.
Make sure your scope "adapter" is facing straight up while it sets and dries or you will get running glue or it will fall off .
Edited by gdheib0430, 14 January 2012 - 06:58 PM.