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Test Horsehead & Flame Nebulas


moondog
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Hard ones to get !

Image is too grainy really, but just pleased to make a half decent first attempt.

7 subs @ 120secs, 1600 ISO, Canon 350D. Revelation 80ED scope at F6.8.

I wouldn't have got both nebulas in the FOV of the 5 ins TAL.

Can't go above 120 secs with non permanent mount and no scope guiding. I need more photons !!

MD

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Ah well done on that MD for trying, infact its come out rather well for those subs , the Horsehead is,nt that hard, but you do have to have the sensitivity in the camera , and in the case of our 350d as you say you need a lot more subs and longer exposures, but its another one you are knocking the door on ,and i,m sure we will see a much improved one next time ,

Cheers

Rog :D

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Glad you could make out the horse's head Phil !

Rog, what's the difference in sensitivity between the Canon 350D and the Atik's you use ?

There must be a huge difference. I don't think increased no. of 120 sec subs on my part would help.

I guess I would need at least 10no 120 sec subs, 10no 180 secs and 10no 240secs, and all at 1600 ISO. Darks, flats and bias frames would make a difference as well.

I ought to consider using a manual guide scope for longer exposures, but that looks tricky.

Mmmm...... perhaps I might need that laptop and a proper CCD camera after all !

8)

MD

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Thanks CC.

Yes, it seems that at the moment, the Canon is the one to go for.

I think that the ImagesPlus software that I use for stacking and digital development has made the most difference to the processing.

I'm sure that if I could get a permanently aligned HEQ5 mount and PEC train it, I would get a good image of horsey and flame with the Canon.

8)

MD

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not sure on the the diffrence but for one b/w out guns the colour anyway , for example , the image i done , recently will give you some idea just one sub of 45 to 60 secs would produce an image very similar to my final image , the only differnce is the noise level, the Atik is so sensitive that any fine wisp of cloud that you cannnot see with the naked eye , would mean game over , no imaging , its that good, to be honest if you are serious for DSO then i think you have to take the CCD route, else you are limited in what you do , you can however have the mod done on the canon to perform better , but its a bit risky , dont think i will bother myself .

Rog

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Thanks Rog

I know the Canon can be modified for astro use and I've seen some good pics with it.

I'll try to push on as far as I can with the present set up, as I know I can do better - but how much better is the question ?

Problem I have is that I may be moving literally to the other side of the world (New Zealand) next year and don't want to start a permanent set up in the UK. I also don't want too much gear as it's only got to be sold or shipped out. If I moved though I'd be posting upside down constellations on the website - might make a change !

8)

MD

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DSLRs aren't that sensitive to red, that's your problem. You need more subs MD. If you go do a trawl of the best astroimages on the web you will see that it is normal to collect hours worth of data. 14 mins. You can also reduce noise by mixing your isos. Try adding in some iso 800 subs as well. How about 40 subs at 1600 and 40 at 800.

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Martin

Thanks for the comments

Problem is I don't have a laptop to automate taking the subs with ImagesPlus. I'm too idle to stand out in the cold for hours pressing the cable release and timing it in the light of a red glow torch!.

I'l just have to try for easier targets eh, but where's the joy in that ?

8)

MD

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