Kaptain Klevtsov

Wow, it'll look a lot better with a 200mm lens. Love it when the target overlaps the edges. Seriously, with more processing there is a lot more of the galaxy in there. If you do a major bump with curves, you'll see what I mean. In Photoshop open the image. New adjustment layer - curves. Click the middle of the line and move the line up (a lot - too much). See how the galaxy fills most of the frame that you have here. I'm assuming that this is full non-cropped size BTW. With the D90, you can bump the ISO a lot more than previous Nikons BTW. D90 @ 1600 = D70 @ 400

The older, non-updateable handsets only allow one park position, weights down - scope up pointing at NCP. The newer versions allow the user to choose a park position. HTH Kaptain Klevtsov

Metal Supermarket if you get no joy with recycled stuff. Usually cheaper than B&Q. Kaptain Klevtsov

I'm surprised, even a Dob. can snap the moon WH, stay away from the darkside.... Kaptain Klevtsov

Where the field stop is on the eyepiece, more or less, ish. So outside the tube. If a DSLR will focus on a Newt., then the focal plane of the mirror must be where you oput the focal plane of the camera. If that works for commercial designs, it must be a close starting point to work from? Kaptain Klevtsov Kaptain Klevtsov

Au contraire, it just needs a quick coat of Photoshop to make it work properly. Automatic 'phone cameras are set up to take pictures of yoofs acting the fool primarily, so you either need to take it off automatic or play later in Photoshop. Careful playing with the levels will bring out all kinds of detail in the bit that looks overexposed. Its not just 'phone cameras that struggle with the dynamic range of moon snaps, they all do. Great picture, well done. Kaptain klevtsov

Just the job those, get one with some spare power if you intend to run dew strips, cameras etc off it as well. Kaptain Klevtsov

The better focus that you saw was caused by a good bit of "seeing" where the atmosphere was temporarily steady, rather than a good focus. It happens, but not often enough. Kaptain Klevtsov

Wild guess here now then, do you have onboard video as well as a video card? Try the cable in the other hole if you have. It could be the video card died a bit, or the card drivers are wonky. Kaptain Klevtsov

You can do either or both. The usual way round this is to set the black point during processing so that the red disappears. In Photoshop go into levels (Cntrl + L) and select each channel individually. Slide the left slider up to the edge of the hump in the histogram for the red, green and blue and the colour cast should go away. Alternately you can use a light pollution filter such as a Baader neodymium or similar. The CLS filter is quite good for longer exposures of several minutes, but up to a minute the Baader one is good. The Baader is cheaper too. Kaptain klevtsov

My 120mm one did that. Just carefully unscrew the lens retaining ring and clean it. I used two small drill bits in the holes and a steel rule to unscrew the retainer. I would gues that the 150mm design is similar. Kaptain Klevtsov

The magnification is the key for visual stuff. If the magnification is the same you'll probably not be able to tell the two apart, but using the same eyepiece, you get different magnifications. The higher magnification makes things look dimmer (the light is more spread out as in the CCD example). I wonder what a dark sky would look like at a magnification of 1X through an 8" 'scope? Kaptain Klevtsov

Thats probably it, wait until the power station thing if fully charged, they can take a couple of days to fill up all the way but 10 hours or so should be enough. If it still fails to beep, check the cable as the supplied ones are sometimes dodgy. Let us know what happens after that. Kaptain Klevtsov

Booting into safe mode may be an option. ISTR that the screen resolution is set low in that mode, then maybe you can put it back?

What a cracker mate, I'm sure there's more in the data. Kaptain Klevtsov