Know your limits

[IvanT]

Hi guys,

After a long imaging session on Saturday night, I suspect that I'm trying to shoot too far too soon (forgive the pun), I've only been at astro and AP for a few months now.

My alignment is getting better and I can now focus on a star and shoot up to 2 mins before I start to see any obvious trailing, I don't have an auto-guide setup YET

My question is, what are the limits of what I realistically can expect to achieve at 2 mins unguided with my setup?

My setup is:

SWE 200P on a syncscan upgraded EQ5

Prime focused unmodified Canon 1000d with an astronomik cls filter fitted

I tried:

M33 don't think I had it framed, initial stacking & processing didn't reveal the image.

M81 think I had it framed but very low detail when processed

Both were 20 x 2 min @ 800 with 10 x 2 min darks & flats would that have been sufficient to capture it those targets?

I for the 2nd time got some decent shots of M42 which was naked eye visible. Neither M33 nor M81 were naked eye visible so I suspect I wasn't centered on them. I tried locating them using my bins but wasn't able to find them. Would 30 sec @ 800 test shots capture enough light to determine if I've framed distant objects such as these correctly when previewed in live view?

I guess I don't want to waste time chasing objects that are beyond my setup's capabilities.

Before I go down the un-guided route I want to learn my trade as it were, has anyone got an opinion on A Beginner's Guide to DSLR Astrophotography by Jerry Lodrigus?

Thanks

[russ]

Try ditching the CLS filter from the imaging train. I've imaged both those objects with a 200P and 300D from a light polluted location. M81 came out quite well and M33 was okay(ish). I was using shorter subs at 90secs with an ISO of 1600. I found the CLS was a light killer on subs less than 3mins and removed it. Replaced it with a Baader Neodymium which worked much better with short unguided subs. Or even just try imaging without any filter. Things maybe a bit Tango but you can deal with that in Photoshop.

Would show you my results but in a fit of rage in 2006 i gave up imaging and deleted all my images i had taken

[IvanT]

Thanks Russ, the filter light reducing effect didn't even occur to me

Looking at the skywatcher lpr filter vs baader neodymium filter thread on here it seems the SW LPR filter @ £19.90 is a good solution. Now for the silly question, would I be correct in saying that at prime the connection sequence is DSLR -> 2" T-Ring adapter -> 2" Filter -> 2" OTA focuser, i.e. the 2" is used for PF not the 1.25" EP adapter.

[dph1nm]

I use the Canon 1000D with one of these 2" adapters

Adaptors - Max DSLR Camera Adaptor

The Skywatcher 2" LPR filter screws directly on to this adapter. Works a treat, and doesn't block too much light out. I can do 30secs exposures quite happily.

NigelM

[Earl]

I have done it twice and Guiding is simple effective, and removes a large frustration.

Good polar alignment is important, but the guiding just makes it all sweet.

[BlueAstra]

Concentrating on star clusters should give good results with short exposures.

[IvanT]

Thanks folks, as always help is mucly appreciated

[russ]

Definitely go the 2" route with the MaxDSLR adapter Nigel recommended. You can buy the 2" Skywatcher LPR for £25. Good luck

[Uranium235]

Have a crack at M27 too, thats usually a giver. The ring nebula will show up with 2min quite easily also. Just take plenty of em and you should get something decent

[dph1nm]

Have a crack at M27 too

Did somebody ask!? M27 with 30sec exposures (about 45 of them) - Canon 1000D on a 8.5" F6 with the Skywatcher LPR filter. This image is binned 4x4.

NigelM

[IvanT]

Is the Canon moded Nigel? Nice image, as someone new to the hobby, it's useful to see what's possible with similar kit.

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