Green channel sept 4th

[neil phillips]

Thought i was imaging in red lol. But it was green. A shame as red was better,

10" Europa DMK21A Type 2 green 100% capture size

dbk shot ive been playing with

[brianb]

Very nice shot indeed of the "boring side" of Jupiter - some detail on Ganymede especially in the colour shot. I think Jupiter may be the "exception to the rule" i.e. a one-shot colour camera can work as well as a mono camera & colour seperation filters.

[Moonshane]

lovely shot. is it me or has the NEB faded a little and gone a paler shade of brown recently?

[MikeD]

WOW great scale, is your Europa F4.8 and if so how are you reaching that scale and maintaining a bright enough image at capture?

Mike.

[neil phillips]

Hi its the Green channel that is 100% the DBK i think was resized. A DMK at about 80 90% full gain was needed, infact i could go higher in scale if i wasnt at 1/30th secs exposure i have in the past by going to much slower exposures, but that reduces frame rate and speed, so not ideal, i find 1/30th secs 30 frames a second the minimum needed really, but good seeing will allow quite sharp shots at 1/15th secs exposure. even though on those occassions scale is the only benefit, ans 30 fps will usually outperform 15 fps. its a f6.3 not 4.5 which i personally think is a lot better than one might think. Hope this helps

Brian i agree so far it seems the DBK can really seem to match mono on jupiter. But im new to RGB so not sure if that will remain so. but often it might i feel ?. Not stopping for filter change, collecting over 4000 frames on a 150 sec capture at 30 fps, controls the noise at highish gain settings, as does good noise control via sharpening post processing, this is the key making Single colour work for us. Though dynamic range seems more washed out a little for sure compared to RGB.

[MikeD]

Thanks for the info it helps alot.

I agree 30fps is as low as I go.

What was the histogram in IC capture showing on the green?

I have been trying to keep the white point at at least 127 (Logarithmic), do you go lower than that?

What are you using to increase the FL?

I use eyepiece projection with a skywatcher 10mm EP on my F4.8 10" newt.

Thanks again for the help.

Mike.

[moocher]

Mike check out Mike Salways tutorial on his website. Its very very helpful. Great image again Neil!!!! Real quality stuff!!!

Alan

[neil phillips]

Hi again i use a 3x Televue barlow with variouse tube lengths of between about 1 and 3 inches. though with a filter wheel its even more than that, but the DBK is around those lengths. between about 5000 and 8000 mm focal length i reckon

Im a bit unorthadox im afraid i set the histo ( actually dont use the histo ) by eye. a trick ive learned is to put gain way up untill burnout occurs then slide back untill i see the white clouds on jupiter just slighly bright, or slightly standing out. this is obviousley close to optimum because the first thing that will burnout will be those white clouds.

So if the histo is set ( dont need the the histo to do this ) set as high as it can go without the white clouds becoming over bright, then of course the signal strength will not be under exposed. Untill you get a feel for this, then yes you may risk slight over exposure, but with practice nornally i can see it at capture.

The slight over exposed footage i have taken, is often fairly well got under control by dropping contrast on reg 5 down to 95, 90, and even 88 on the worst exposed footage ive taken, but even then its taken it under control, and very much usable.

ive yet to completely blow out the white clouds, and i find the more i do this, the better it gets, and the more accurate i become.

setting by eye really gives you what youll get. setting grapths can be less accurate infact because

I belive jupiter can sometimes become very easily overbright even though the grapth may say overwise. though this is in fact a observation i had when i was using the level meter on K3 CCD tools and a toucam on Mars, not sure if the meters on IC capture are better, they probably are. But i do think my technique works, as when do i have seriouse burnout or under exposed images posted. Not often i think you will find. I prefer to trust my eyes. because i know its what ill be getting. Hope this helps

[MikeD]

Thanks Neil I'll give that a go:cool:.

Under exposed is more likely to be an issue for me when trying to up the image scale @ 30FPS.

Thanks Alan i'll give Mike Salways tutorial a look too.

Mike.

[resonator77]

Excellent image Neil,

as usual

[Clayton]

That's a lovely image Neil. I reckon your experience has kicked you to a new level

[neil phillips]

Thanks Ramis my pc is filled with jupiter avis many slightly unsteady ones i havent even processed.

Clayton when i first started using my DFK ( as it wasnt a DBK then )

I really didnt have a clue, but over time with constant use it becomes second nature,and thats what i think your noticing.Also as Brian pointed out one needs to re learn how to process a planet when it changes from say Saturn to jupiter, and again in time it gets better. I think Nick smith got me thinking about seperating channenls and working on them ( did this in the past but stopped ) but im mostly doing that now and it seems to pull a bit more out. So much more to learn though, quite a few things i still dont fully understand, in time hopefully ill learn more.

Cheers all