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Jupiter using a 1000d


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Guys,

After a week of waiting for blanket cloud to clear we finally got the chance to use our new Canon 1000D. The moon was nowhere in sight (typically) and i was struggling to find any kind of DSO so I took a peek at Jupiter. Took a load of shots and every single one was a bit of a disappointment to be honest. The brightness of Jupiter seems to destroy any kind of detail - see the photo attached.

Any advice greatly received.

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Set it to M mode, turn the ISO sensitivity right down and then keep adjusting the shutter speed until you are happy that Jupiter is not over exposed. Then take as many shots as you are able and stack them in registax.

I think your focussing was slightly out as well looking at the moons, also I'd check your collimation.

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I thought the collimation might be off but Ive heard horror stories and I dont want to make it worse. Any websites, vids showing how to collimate a Celestron 127eq would be greatly appreciated.

Still trying to get used to the DSLR so not expecting fantastic shots instantly but was hoping for slightly better! Then the real tests will start with DSO.

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Hi Dubbs

We did our first shots of Jupiter recently with a dslr on a CPC-800 with Hyperion Zoom at 12mm. Initial shots were like yours - lots of brightness wash out - we turned the ISO down to 800 and exposure to 1/20th of a second. Could probably be faster still cos though we got some definition of banding it was still fuzzy/blurry.

Dunno if that helps but it's a bit of extra info for you.

Cheers :icon_salut:

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Also - you can't get the moons and planet in the same shot I'm informed. They have to be taken on different settings at wich the planet is too bright. Then the trick is to superimpose them. I've no reason to doubt this but may be contradicted :icon_salut:

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Looking at a Celestron Collomating eyepiece on Amazon. No reviews on there so has anyone here used one (or something similar) and would like to pass on their thoughts? Also, whilst browsng I noticed a Starpointer LED red-dot finderscope. Anyone used one? Are they easier to use than the finderscopes which come with the telescope?

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The "Star Pointer" is fine but some people prefer a "Telrad" - it's largely a personal thing. Finder scopes on the other hand come in different shapes and sizes. Usually you get a "straight through" one supplied with a new scope. Some people change this for a right angled one to avoid bending. They also come with correct image optics and or illuminated reticles.

Collimators also come in various types from a central hole drilled in a tube cap to Cheshire type, lasers, self centering lasers etc. They range in price from a few pence to over £100. And all the s/h prices in between. You need to research collimation and finders to know what you're preference is.

Astro Baby's guide to collimation is where you should start in the "Primers" section (or google it). There's also lots of YouTube demo videos :icon_salut:

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Thanks Brantuk. I've seen a few youtube videos which seem pretty simple to follow. My only concern is either damaging the optics or making the problem worse! Think i'll pick up a collimation eyepiece to see if I have a problem.

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Collimation is quite straightforward (though it seems strange at first) - but wich scope do you have?

Refractors rarely need collimation (if at all) but most reflectors need collimating on a regular basis. You won't damage the optics if you follow a methodical routine :icon_salut:

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It's unlikely that the collimation will be out. Mak's are known for keeping their collimation for a long time, often for the life of the scope. I think was has been said regarding the ISO/shutter speed will improve things greatly. Try ISO400 and a shutter speed of between 1/30 and 1/60.

Also, somewhere deep in the 1000D's menu is an option to lock the shutter. This will eliminate any vibration caused by the shutter moving when taking a shot. With this option enabled, the first press of the camera will open the shutter and a second press will take the pic. Until I got a remote shutter control I use the self timer, set on 10 seconds, which is just long enough for the wobble from pressing the button to stop.

Another way to lock the shutter open while taking the shot is to take the shot in 'live view' mode :o

EDIT: One more thing; take your time focusing. Do it in live view mode and press the button in the top right corner of the 1000D to zoom in to 10x. It'll cause a hell of a wobble when adjusting the focus knob, but adjust a bit at a time and leave it a few seconds to stop wobbling, then adjust again if needed. It takes patients but getting the focus right will be worth it.

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Yup -it's a Newtonian - when you do the collimation, unscrew the altitude adjustment bolts untill the scope is horizontal. That way, if you drop the hex key or screwdriver whilst adjusting the secondary, it will fall on the floor rather than down the tube onto the primary. You may need to remove the weights and/or bar whilst you do this to avoid clashing with the mount. :o

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