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Revs

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Everything posted by Revs

  1. OK just confirmed it makes no difference. Tried speed of 40 compared to 80 and they're just the same. So USB speed is sumply to get the transfer done faster. Must have mis-read or mis-understood what I was reading.
  2. I'm probably wrong but I'm sure a read that amp glow was caused during the transfer of data, so the faster you can get that done the less amp glow.
  3. Cheers. Did you spend much time finding a good offset setting for each gain setting or just go for a 'safe' amount for both?
  4. Hi. After some saving I've taken the plunge and purchased a cold CMOS camera, the ZWO ASI294MC Pro. I've got the day off and I'm using this time to collect some dark/bias calibration frames. But I have some questions. I understand that the temperature and gain have to be the same for all frames and that exposure times of the darks and lights needs to match, but... Which of following camera settings used to take darks/bias frames have to match the settings used for light frames... USB speed - My understanding is slower means more amp glow, so will have to be the same, at least on the darks, right..? Offset - do the positions of the peaks of the darks/bias frame have to be in the same place on the histogram as the lights? Any input appreciated also any other tips for a newby more than welcome!
  5. Pretty sure this is a good one..
  6. That has knocked a lot of the medium brightnees stars down a lot though, kinda lost it's twinkle. From what I remember, he selected the brightest areas using a FWHM selection method, deselected the bits he didn't want to effect and feathered the selection that were left. Turn that in to a mask and adjusted the curves, etc. Then blended the layer in using opacity. I'll try and find the vid...
  7. From what I've seen it would be tweaked at any stage of the PP as desired, so probably both. This guy has a lot of good vids.. AstroBackyard.. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLt97PtQt5dJEUdzqgBIJv-xs8anU7F6D- But there are dozens of great astro related channels
  8. It doesn't strike me as an 'issue' as such, more just that the blue ones are the brightest and blow out the most (I'm sure there's a correct term for this but I don't know it), so they do dominate. I'm just getting back in to astro after a long time away and I'm using Photoshop for the first time as of last week. But I've watched a lot of tutorials on YouTube in the last week and am literally just learning about shrinking stars using masks, etc now. So I can't really help much but there are a lot of tutorials and PP walk-throughs on YT. I also picked up the Astro Photography Tool plugin for Ps which does a lot of this using 'actions' in seconds... once you know how to use them
  9. The reason I say that is that the blacks are really black and the stars have less colour than in the first one, suggesting clipping. As you say, maybe half way. But the first one looks good to me BTW I'm not professing to be an expert, I'm still very much learning, especially the PP side.
  10. V1 is very nice but V2, wow that's really nice. So many galaxies, they're everywhere! The colours are lovely, especially the stars. I'm looking on an OLED and the colour balance looks fine to me mate. Though there are a lot of big blue stars in that image and they kinda effect the overall tone. But instead of adjusting the colour I might have a go at tightening up just the big blue ones a touch. It might just make the difference. BTW I'm no expert, just throwing ideas out there On second thoughts maybe a teeeeeeny bit more red..? I'm seeing green as much as blue.
  11. I do prefer a softer image. But I didn't used to so I know where you're coming from
  12. The first one is nice, good colour and detail. If you don't mind me saying; the second one is over-stretched and you've lost detail in both the dark areas and the core/stars. I don't think the extra sharpness gained is worth it. The first looks much more natural imo
  13. Might not be what you intended but it looks gorgeous nonetheless. Good stuff
  14. I've been using this little trusty notebook for over 10 years and I've finally replaced it. Rather than throw it, I'd rather someone got some more use out of it as it's still working fine. It's great for basic mount control and guiding. Battery still lasts really well (8hrs+) and as long as you don't connect to the web it's perfectly fast enough. Original charger included. Specs.. Intel Atom N270 1.6Ghz - 2GB DDR2 - 160GB hard drive - 10.1" 1024x600 LED lit screen - 10/100 LAN - Wifi B/G/N - Bluetooth - SD card slot - Windows 7 Starter (up to date) Software installed.. ASCOM platform 6 - EQmod - Cartes Du Ciel - PHD - SharpCap - QGvideo - PolarFinder - SPC900NC drivers - QHY5 drivers I'm just asking for £20 (no offers) to cover postage/fuel. If you can collect from Huddersfield it's yours free of charge. Payment by PayPal (gift) or balance transfer. Delivery to UK mainland, excluding the more expensive areas.
  15. Revs

    Ayup for Huddersfield

    Thanks guys Jules, not setup at Digley res before, lovely spot though. Was thinking a little further along the road and a little higher; Holme Moss, 527m asl. Prolly a bit breezy up there though.
  16. Revs

    Ayup for Huddersfield

    Hi Guys and Gals.... I'm back! I thought I'd better reintroduce myself as I haven't posted for a such long time, going on 8 years I think. I hope everyone's doing well in these weird times. With all the extra time I've had I found myself watching astro vids on YouTube. Next thing you know I'm dusting off my scopes and reacquainting myself with the HEQ5. I've had a couple of nights out with the 10" dob hoping to see some planets but only Venus and the Moon could be found, but it was so nice to see them again. I decided it was time to retire my slow-as-hell 12 year old astro notebook and pickup something a lot newer and faster. Then had to re-learn the ASCOM install process and figure out how to get the old QHY5 to talk to Windows 10 (x64). I was struggling, I had almost given up and was looking at QHY5Lii's, but I found the info/link I needed here, got the right drivers installed and got it working again, which made my day The only issue now is that I'm in a very light polluted area and don't wanna get in trouble by travelling to darker skies. Anyway, see you in the forums, cheers!
  17. Just found out very sad news. We've lost one of our few true national treasures. RIP Patrick, you'll be well remembered.
  18. Yeah, Weebl peaked at the 'Amazing Horse' animation. Everything since has been a bit lame.
  19. Yeah that's backlash. You should always have a little to allow for the expansion and contraction of the metals in the mount (as temps vary) without the gears binding, but 30 secs worth does sound a bit extreme.
  20. HEQ5 Pro for sure. I had a Mak on mine for a while and it was really solid, though far from the ideal scope for deep sky. I suspect you'd do alright with an ED80 on a CG5GT due to the low weight and shorter focal length, but the added solidness of the HEQ5 will come in one day and the guide port is nice to have.
  21. For a spot nearer to you, the northern part of the Peak District has so good spots and it's only a 10-15min drive from you. Some nice skies in the Lakes/Dales, too. Of course it's not gonna be as good as northern Scotland, but it's a lot closer
  22. I can't believe no-one has asked to two main questions! What's going on it and what are you doing with it, ie, visual or photo? For visual use with a payload up to say 8kg, the CG5GT might be easier to live with. Need more info really
  23. I'm using the Revelation Quartz LX diagonal. Nicely made and optically superb. Under £90 too so it's not expencive.. Diagonal Dielectric 99% Quartz LX EDIT: Ah sorry, you're wanting one that swaps to a refractor ain't ya
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