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Help with WO Flattener II

Catanonia

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Catanonia

Catanonia

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How do you connect the WO flattener II reducer to a WO66 and to a 2inch camera ?

Lost here, i assumed it would just screw into the WO66 instead of the 2inch SCT adapter and then plug in the 2inch camera.

I can screw on the flattener to the WO66, but left with a smaller thread on the other side than I need to turn to 2inch to take 2inch barrel of a camera.

Anyone done this before ?

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Catanonia

Catanonia

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Are you able to take the nosepiece off of your camera? Chances are if you are that the thread on that is a t-thread which is the same as the one on the other end of the flattener.

Tony..

Camera is a large sensor CCD and 2inch barrel.

Nothing I have fits the thread on the end of the flattener, really frustrating, looks like I need an adapter of some sorts to connect the thread on the flattener and conver it into a 2 inch barrel female.

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Catanonia

Catanonia

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If the thread on the back of the flattener is T2, then is this what you need?

Adapter vom T2 Gewinde auf 2" Steckdurchmesser - Teleskop-Express: Astro-Shop + Fotografie + Naturbeobachtung

But you are going to have to watch out for the 55mm spacing from reducer to chip

Looks like what I need.... Not easy this WO66 I tell you.

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ollypenrice

ollypenrice

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I'd ring Patrick at Telesope Service or send him an Email saying what needs to go where and what chip spacing you need. Remember to factor in your filter wheel thickness if you have one. I have just been through this with my own 66 but the bits I need are different because Ian King had already supplied me with a device that attaches the flattener to the SCT thread on the scope. Respecting the chip distance (which was quoted to me as 56mm rather than 55) is vital but a mm either way won't matter. I would wonder if, by using a nosepiece instead of a screw-on attachment for your camera, you will be able to get it close enough. I think you will need all screw-in attachments but am not sure. I do when using reducers on the Tak and 66.

Olly

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martin_h

martin_h

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Yes I have the M42 to 2inch barrel attach to the front of the camera.

It is getting that to attach to the thread (T2 in think) on the flattener. See the post above.

T2 is M42 - so unscrew the nose on the camera and screw the camera on to the reducer!! - you might have to use some spacers to get the spacing right - (15mm from front face of ccd to chip)

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moocher

moocher

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Cat

T2 is 42mm with 0.75 pitch thread

M42 is 42mm with 1mm pitch thread

Your qhy9 comes with t2 and so does your mII flattener

With t2 to t2 adapters and knowing the distance between the front of the ccd and the chip it should be pretty easy to sort out what length adapters you need to get the correct length for your imaging train.

Which is 56mm from memory from the flattener to the chip

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Paxo

Paxo

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T2 is M42 - so unscrew the nose on the camera and screw the camera on to the reducer!! - you might have to use some spacers to get the spacing right - (15mm from front face of ccd to chip)

T2 is a 0.75 pitch thread, a standard M42 is typically a 1mm pitch so you need to be aware end ensure the pitch is the same - it will probably force it's way on but not off.

Steve..

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Catanonia

Catanonia

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Cat

T2 is 42mm with 0.75 pitch thread

M42 is 42mm with 1mm pitch thread

Your qhy9 comes with t2 and so does your mII flattener

With t2 to t2 adapters and knowing the distance between the front of the ccd and the chip it should be pretty easy to sort out what length adapters you need to get the correct length for your imaging train.

Which is 56mm from memory from the flattener to the chip

Thanks mate, that makes real proper sense so both the QHY and flattener are T2. Thanks for clearing that up, get confused by the thread names

BUT back to the original question

Here is what I have

In order of stacking

1. QHY9 with T2 thread but with the filter wheel screw directly onto the CCD. The filter wheel presents a 2inch barrel.

2. OAG pushed into the 2inch barrel from the filter wheel / ccd combo. The OAG presents a 2inch barrel in return that slots into the SCT 2inch WO adapter to scope.

Now I was wanting to put the flattener in place of the SCT adapter between the scope and the OAG/Filter/CCD setup to give flat stars for OAG and same focus for the CCD and OAG guide.

So problem I have is the T2 on the Flattener needs to convert to a 2inch adapter that the OAG accepts.

So I guess I need a T2 male to 2inch barrel adapter.

Now all this talk of CCD - flattener distance has got me very worried that I will never find focus as the CCD will be a very long way from the CCD as it has the filter wheel and OAG to deal with along with an additional adapter to mate it all up.

Am I right in guessing that the flattener glass must be 56mm from the CCD sensor overwise it will not work / focus

If so this setup will never work as the light beams will merge and diverge by the time they get to the CCD...

**** this is complicated

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simon84

simon84

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Pop the reducer onto your camera using the t2 threads, then pop your filter wheel onto the reducer, again using t2 threads, then pop your OAG on to the filter wheel and then a 2" nosepiece onto the OAG. Fingers crossed you should be sorted,

Thats how I had my CCD gear setup and it worked a treat.

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Catanonia

Catanonia

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Cat

An average ccd camera and filter wheel normally take between 39-51mm of the back focus of the 56mm distance you require. this leaves room for only the slimmest of OAG'S like the telescope service one i am afraid

Alan

yeah my fear..... Might have a flattener for sale at this rate. The problem of puting lenses at the rear of a refractor :icon_salut:

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simon84

simon84

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Sorry, why has the OAG got to go between the flattener and the camera? Surely it could go before the reducer?

This is me just thinking, I've never actually used an OAG, but when I was set up for CCD imaging I set the 56mm between the flattener and the camera with the filter wheel in between. I only had a couple of mm's at best in there so if I was going to add an OAG to my old setup it would of had to have gone in first before the flattener.

If thats wrong then please tell me but after all you only want a guide star you dont really need a corrected image for that or am I miles off base here?

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Catanonia

Catanonia

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Sorry, why has the OAG got to go between the flattener and the camera? Surely it could go before the reducer?

This is me just thinking, I've never actually used an OAG, but when I was set up for CCD imaging I set the 56mm between the flattener and the camera with the filter wheel in between. I only had a couple of mm's at best in there so if I was going to add an OAG to my old setup it would of had to have gone in first before the flattener.

If thats wrong then please tell me but after all you only want a guide star you dont really need a corrected image for that or am I miles off base here?

mmm, more adapters needed then here plus also with the WO66 the edge fields with OAG give bad stars, was hoping the flattener would help with guiding too.

Let me think about this.

Would need T2 - T2 to connect flattener to the CCD. Then a Threaded to a T2 female to get flattener to the filter wheel, then rest is as I have it.

grrrrr...... rapidaly giving up on this WO66

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martin_h

martin_h

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on the QHY site it gives the filter wheel as 19mm thick and 15mm from the front face of the CCD to the chip face, so that is 19+15=34mm. the reducer needs 56mm, so, 56-34= 22. so you have 22mm to play with - not a lot!

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ollypenrice

ollypenrice

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So why not lose the OAG and buy some 'orrible old cheapie refractor from someone's junk box? Or just go to FLO for the king of guidescopes brand new, the ST80 at £85?

The ZS66 is worth some effort but the bizarre SCT back was indeed a bit of lunacy in my view. For £85 you won't pay much more than the price of all those adapters!

Olly

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simon84

simon84

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Yes that makes sense to have the OAG behing the flattener now, sorry brains not working too well, didnt even consider the fact that the oag would be looking at the uncorrected edge of the fov.

Or, if you want a nice lightweight setup go for a finder/guider or you could always go for a camera with a built in OAG and filter wheel like the QSI 583WSG, I know its over 3k but saves alot of mucking around......

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