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My first M42...


Takahashi

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...in fact, my first multi-frame stack! :)

25 subs of 30 sec @ ISO 400, prime focus on FLT110 (750mm), Canon 500D, no darks.

Converted from CR2 to 16-bit TIF in RawHide. Stacked in Registax.

No rework in the first pic. In the second pic, histo-stretched and re-curved in PS, and "Local Contrast Enhancement" in Noel's Astro Tools.

Un-worked :

m42_stacked_in_regi_pre_ps.jpg

Re-worked :

m42_stacked_in_regi_local_contrasted.jpg

Focus wasn't great, and I have yet to get the Lodestar up & running on the Meg, so this was just rough Polar-aligned with the EQ6 doing as best it could.

Something tells me I'm going to enjoy revisiting this hobby. :) Can't wait to get out and bag some less-common targets.

I have no idea what those two seemingly identical artifacts are on the centre-left of the 2nd frame! Here they are at native rez :

artifacts.jpg

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Hi

Very well done for your first stack , I wish mine was like that

Just a couple of things

1 ) As you know longer subs would be better

2) Colour is not right and needs balancing

The artifacts are probably hot pixels which are static on your image , but your image moves slightly so as you stack is appears to leave a line , A sigma stacking routine would remove these :)

Regards Harry

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Hi Harry,

Yep, longer subs would definitely improve it, but I first need to improve my polar-alignment techniques. :) I made the mistake that night of not spending enough time doing so, and everything I did suffered as a result. I was in too big a rush!

Regarding the colour, it could be due to the LP filter I used, which I've since learned can impart a mauve hue to images, and makes stars look almost uniformly blue or blue-ish.

In hindsight, I think you're absolutely right about the hot-pixels causing the artifacts, I'll need to check the individual frames to ascertain. Also, in this instance, where I used Registax instead of DSS, I didn't specify a stacking routine, which I usually do in DSS. I'll try again later tonight.

Thank you very much for your input!

Ivor.

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Thanks Steve, I know it's (M42) an incredibly over-done subject, but it's probably the ideal first DSO for anyone starting out in AP, in terms of minimum work required to get at least a pleasing result, visually.

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Again, thanks for the encouraging comments... :)

This stuff is really addictive! I've just spent bout 4 hours in PS, messing about with all sorts of settings, and this is about as far as I can take this particular version, I think :

m42_stacked_in_regi_re-stretched_&_curved_uber.jpg

Colours are OTT, stars are flaring, and there's enough background noise to drown out a building-site, but I'm having a lotta fun.

BTW, I've since downloaded the trial version of PixInsight, although given the precipitous learning curve that I'm already wrestling with in PS, is it really worth transitioning to what appears to be something that astronauts would struggle to cope with?

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Very nice, my first was this one as well, have a go at the horse head. You have the same camera as me, it would be interesting to compare the results.

Regarding polar aligning, I find I can narrow it down over consequetive nights. Use polarfinder to give the position of polaris at a particular time, nail that then switch off for 10 mins. Go back power up and re-align, then switch off again.

Do that for at least 3 times before you start imaging, then weather permitting leave the mount and scope (covered) out and do it all again the next night. By this time I've found I can hit 5 to 7 minutes unguided without trails.

You'll see my result of a one exposure 140 seconds at iso 800 (up your iso with this camera it can take it) look for 'My fiirst nebula'. Didn't want to post a link as this is your thread, nice work keep it up.

Regards

Keithp

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Hi

Wow that's fast improvement :)

There is a slight red cast to the image ,and the colour is slightly off, But very well done:icon_salut:

As for pixinsight you are asking the wrong man :) , because that's what i use and I will get into trouble for promoting again :mad:

By the way if you run the background neutralization tool in PI in will easily get rid of that cast, watch this video to see how

http://www.harrysastroshed.com/CC.html

Regards Harry

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