Power issue

[teoria_del_big_bang]

This is normally how I have seen LED rocker switches wired (must also be suitable for 12V).

 

Steve

[Simon Dunsmore]

11 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Then I would think you need three wires to it, please let us know exactly which switch you are using.

Steve

Hi, Here's an image of the switch

 

[teoria_del_big_bang]

I am pretty sure it will need wiring as my diagram above, but as it is not the exact same switch I cannot say exactly which terminal each wire goes to without a picure of the back of the switch where it will label the three terminals, to indicate which is Load, LED -ive and +12V terminals.

Steve

[wulfrun]

If you have a test meter and aren't sure which terminal is which on the switch you can find out as follows. Remove the switch entirely, or at least disconnect all terminals. Set your test meter to "ohms" and short the test leads together, it should then read roughly zero. Now connect across two terminals of the switch and see which pair gives zero (ish) with the switch "on" and "infinity" with it "off" (digital meters usually display a "1" or "O/L" or similar for infinity reading). These two are the two you need to connect in the power line. The third will be "earth" for illumination BUT the switch MUST be in the positive side and not in the negative lead as per your original diagram. Switching the negative is unconventional and leaves the output with a permanent "live", this could come back to bite you (not literally, at only 12V!) in future. It may also fail to light an LED, if that's what it uses for illumination, if in the negative lead.

If the switch illuminates regardless of on or off, swap the incoming and outgoing power terminals (assuming you want it lit only for "on").

Edited December 14, 2021 by wulfrun

[teoria_del_big_bang]

1 minute ago, wulfrun said:

If you have a test meter and aren't sure which terminal is which on the switch you can find out as follows. Remove the switch entirely, or at least disconnect all terminals. Set your test meter to "ohms" and short the test leads together, it should then read roughly zero. Now connect across two terminals of the switch and see which pair gives zero (ish) with the switch "on" and "infinity" with it "off" (digital meters usually display a "1" or "O/L" or similar for infinity reading). These two are the two you need to connect in the power line. The third will be "earth" for illumination BUT the switch MUST be in the positive side and not in the negative lead as per your original diagram. Switching the negative is unconventional and leaves the output with a permanent "live", this could come back to bite you (not literally, at only 12V!) in future. It may also fail to light an LED, if that's what it uses for illumination, if in the negative lead.

If the switch illuminates whether on or off, swap the incoming and outgoing power terminals (assuming you want it lit only for "on").

The positive switches, which are wired as you describe. are the most common but you can get negative switches as well which do pass the -ive through to the load rather than the _ive, just to confuse things.
This is ideally why a link to where it was bought from would help or a look at the terminals with a good close up image of the actual switch.
 

Steve

[wulfrun]

Just now, teoria_del_big_bang said:

The positive switches, which are wired as you describe. are the most common but you can get negative switches as well which do pass the -ive through to the load rather than the _ive, just to confuse things.
This is ideally why a link to where it was bought from would help or a look at the terminals with a good close up image of the actual switch.
 

Steve

Good point so yes, it's important to know which he has. However, using the "wrong" one does only mean the illumination might not work. Negative earth has been the convention in automotive for many years and seems to be the most common in other low-voltage gear, including astro stuff (I think!)

[M40]

Lets jump back a few steps. Simon, ignore the gold colour terminal on the switch and connect the wire from the gold terminal onto the center terminal and try it. The light may not work. Let us know what happens.

[teoria_del_big_bang]

7 minutes ago, wulfrun said:

Good point so yes, it's important to know which he has. However, using the "wrong" one does only mean the illumination might not work. Negative earth has been the convention in automotive for many years and seems to be the most common in other low-voltage gear, including astro stuff (I think!)

True, its only the led the other way round I think 🙂 

Steve

[StevieDvd]

To avoid an overload of info I'll just keep my reply shorter.

My best advice it to always check the polarity of the tip, before you plug it into the mount, with a homemade power setup

 

 

Edited December 14, 2021 by StevieDvd
info overload

[Simon Dunsmore]

Thanks everyone. All working like a dream now. Couldn't have done it without you. That's why I love this forum.

Just need some clear night's to see how long it will last. 

Edited December 15, 2021 by Simon Dunsmore
Error

[teoria_del_big_bang]

Simon, was it the switch wiring then ?

Steve

[Simon Dunsmore]

32 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Simon, was it the switch wiring then ?

Steve

Yes, it needed three wires to the switch.

[teoria_del_big_bang]

Great news 🙂 
Just remember to put on charge at regular intervals if not in use and to charge after a session and should be good to go .

Steve