Calling All 3D printer owners....

[Stuart1971]

Hello,

I am not an owner of a 3D printer and even if I was I don’t think I would be very good ate using the software needed to design things... ☹️
But I am wanting a bridge type handle in black,  for the top of my scope to fit between the two tube rings, with a 126mm M6 bolt hole centres....to fasten to rings...

Would anybody be able to print me one, I am more than happy to pay, if anybody is willing and able please PM me 

Thanks for looking.... 👍

Edited March 11, 2020 by Stuart1971

[Dr_Ju_ju]

Need some more info, i.e. what make scope\mount\tube-rings? & accurate dimensions (tube ring screws are usually UNC thread), type of handle you require, e.g. only for carrying or more of an additional mount for ancillary equipment.

Also where are you located , as it may well a number of iterations....

[sploo]

Do you mean a handle like this: https://www.boneham.co.uk/Products/knobs-and-handles/bridge-handle ?

If you can't find an off-the-shelf unit that fits then a 3D print would certainly be an option, but for a simple 'u' shaped handle something in wood would be easy to make. I could probably dig out some scraps, and it can be stained black.

How deep into the scope do the M6 threads go (i.e. how much thread is needed for the scope body)? How heavy is the scope (and are you looking at trying to carry the scope using the handle)?

[johninderby]

A carry handle like this StellaMira one would do but not available seperately as far as I know. Ypu could fry asking FLO if they could get one for you.

Or there is this Vixen one in white.

https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Carry-Handle-for-Refractors/dp/B0017WXO26

Edited March 11, 2020 by johninderby

[Stuart1971]

44 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

Need some more info, i.e. what make scope\mount\tube-rings? & accurate dimensions (tube ring screws are usually UNC thread), type of handle you require, e.g. only for carrying or more of an additional mount for ancillary equipment.

Also where are you located , as it may well a number of iterations....

Takahashi fsq85 with parallax tube rings, and they are M6 thread...just for carrying and fixed to both rings which as said before have centres of 126mm

[Stuart1971]

37 minutes ago, johninderby said:

A carry handle like this StellaMira one would do but not available seperately as far as I know. Ypu could fry asking FLO if they could get one for you.

Or there is this Vixen one in white.

https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Carry-Handle-for-Refractors/dp/B0017WXO26

I want it attached to both rings so no chance of too much strain on one ring alone...

[Stuart1971]

46 minutes ago, sploo said:

Do you mean a handle like this: https://www.boneham.co.uk/Products/knobs-and-handles/bridge-handle ?

If you can't find an off-the-shelf unit that fits then a 3D print would certainly be an option, but for a simple 'u' shaped handle something in wood would be easy to make. I could probably dig out some scraps, and it can be stained black.

How deep into the scope do the M6 threads go (i.e. how much thread is needed for the scope body)? How heavy is the scope (and are you looking at trying to carry the scope using the handle)?

Yes that is exactly what I mean, but they don’t do one with 126mm fastening centres, just 120mm.. 

[teoria_del_big_bang]

Are you in UK ?

I do have a printer and can design a handle, although they are not as easy as you think to print a good comfortable handle because they either need a lot of support in middle of handle if printed correct way up or you print them upside down, or on their side but each of these gives some issues with making a comfortable one as you dont want it with square edges .  

Steve

Edited March 11, 2020 by teoria_del_big_bang

[sploo]

30 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

I do have a printer and can design a handle, although they are not as easy as you think to print a good comfortable handle because they either need a lot of support in middle of handle if printed correct way up or you print them upside down, or on their side but each of these gives some issues with making a comfortable one as you dont want it with square edges .  

That's what I suspected; a relatively large (but simple shape) such as a large handle is probably not the best application of a 3d printer.

[sploo]

42 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

Yes that is exactly what I mean, but they don’t do one with 126mm fastening centres, just 120mm.. 

OK, so if you take an M6 bolt and started to screw it into the fixing holes in the scope how much thread do they take up before you can't screw it in any further? That's important to know in order to get the right length bolt and ensure it doesn't either bottom out on the hole (before holding the handle tight), or conversely, not have enough "bite" into the holes in order to hold the handle onto the scope safely.

[johninderby]

2 hours ago, Stuart1971 said:

I want it attached to both rings so no chance of too much strain on one ring alone...

Why would it put too much strain on the ring? If it is a CNC tube ring will be plenty strong enough for use with a refractor.

Edited March 11, 2020 by johninderby

[Stuart1971]

2 hours ago, sploo said:

OK, so if you take an M6 bolt and started to screw it into the fixing holes in the scope how much thread do they take up before you can't screw it in any further? That's important to know in order to get the right length bolt and ensure it doesn't either bottom out on the hole (before holding the handle tight), or conversely, not have enough "bite" into the holes in order to hold the handle onto the scope safely.

12mm into the ring, but I have a huge range of different length M6 bolts, from 5mm to 60mm length, so it does not matter how much of the bolt would be in the handle as long as it would be strong enough....also I can cut them to length anyway...

 

[Stuart1971]

2 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Are you in UK ?

I do have a printer and can design a handle, although they are not as easy as you think to print a good comfortable handle because they either need a lot of support in middle of handle if printed correct way up or you print them upside down, or on their side but each of these gives some issues with making a comfortable one as you dont want it with square edges .  

Steve

Yes am in the UK.. 👍

[teoria_del_big_bang]

Would something like this be okay ?

BUT, Not sure how well this will actually print and I would be a bit worried that you are carry a few grands worth of scope about on a £5 handle made by myself.

Also it is important you get a screw and see how deep the treads go on the scope rings so you can ensure screw is well into the tapped holes but is not bottoming and also then we could work out the correct length screws and I could ensure the height to the conterbore in the handle is correct. As mentioned by @sploo

Also  as mentioned by @Dr_Ju_ju most scope rings have  threads that are 1/4 UNC not M6 (they are very similar but must use correct screw.

Steve

 

[Stuart1971]

11 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Would something like this be okay ?

BUT, Not sure how well this will actually print and I would be a bit worried that you are carry a few grands worth of scope about on a £5 handle made by myself.

Also it is important you get a screw and see how deep the treads go on the scope rings so you can ensure screw is well into the tapped holes but is not bottoming and also then we could work out the correct length screws and I could ensure the height to the conterbore in the handle is correct. As mentioned by @sploo

Also  as mentioned by @Dr_Ju_ju most scope rings have  threads that are 1/4 UNC not M6 (they are very similar but must use correct screw.

Steve

 

Wow, that looks superb...thanks...

The holes go in approx 12mm Into the rings, and as long as the holes in the handle can take 1/4” bolt then all will be fine...obviously the more material between the bolt head and the scope ring the better / stronger,  and I have 1/4” and M6 Allen bolts of all sizes and lengths....

[MarkAR]

Make sure your 1/4" bolts are the correct thread pitch and form. Most common in the UK is Whitworth thread with is a 55º form, UNC is 60º.

[Stuart1971]

2 minutes ago, MarkAR said:

Make sure your 1/4" bolts are the correct thread pitch and form. Most common in the UK is Whitworth thread with is a 55º form, UNC is 60º.

Yes, I have the correct bolts as I use them in the other end, for connecting to the Losmandy plate, so please all, I do no what size bolts they are.... 👍😀

[MarkAR]

4 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

Yes, I have the correct bolts as I use them in the other end, for connecting to the Losmandy plate, so please all, I do no what size bolts they are.... 👍😀

👍

[teoria_del_big_bang]

Just modified it slightly to make finger grip a bit more ergonomic and also reduced the overall height as it looked a bit tall. Also thickened the amount of plastic that the bolt goes through. 20mm capheads or thereabouts should work best and there will be 10mm of bolt in the handle, which is made out of PETG should be well stong enough,. Any colour preference, I have various but I assume either black or white would look best.

Steve

[teoria_del_big_bang]

Just to give you an idea of actual sizes so you can see if they are okay.

[Stuart1971]

19 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Just to give you an idea of actual sizes so you can see if they are okay.

That looks absolutely superb, and in black if possible please....

Send me cost and payment details via messages....and very much appreciated in the time you have spent on this, it would take me weeks to even get that CAD drawing done on a PC... 😮

[teoria_del_big_bang]

Okay no problem I quite like doing it so no hassle,  I will PM you but I am not after making any money, just postage really and actual cost of filament used . 

Black it is.

Steve

Edited March 11, 2020 by teoria_del_big_bang

[Stuart1971]

2 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Okay no problem I quite like doing it so no hassle,  I will PM you but I am not after making any money, just postage really and actual cost of filament used . 

Black it is.

Steve

 Very much appreciated  😀

[teoria_del_big_bang]

Turned out better than I thought it would, should be well strong enough I think. Its in PETG which means it is strong but not brittle and does not degrade so much with UV. I will PM you.

 

[Stuart1971]

3 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

Turned out better than I thought it would, should be well strong enough I think. Its in PETG which means it is strong but not brittle and does not degrade so much with UV. I will PM you.

 

That looks super, wow.   Really impressed.... thanks so much...