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Witch Head Nebula


smr

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Hi,

I love this nebula but haven't imaged it before, would like to give it a go this winter. 

However, for my FL (430mm) on my Z73 it doesn't fit in well so I'm going to be using my 55-250 at 250mm. Will a heater band around the lens hood keep the lens clear? If not should I even bother using the lens hood and instead just wrap it around the lens element and focus ring?

Am I right in thinking that this should be a good target with a stock DSLR as it's a reflection nebula.

I imagine I'm going to need a lot of subs to reveal this faint target, but I don't mind ploughing in a fair bit of integration time.

Any advice appreciated.

Actually I could use my refractor I think, I'd have to go for a portrait shot but it fits in quite nicely.

The only thing is it'll really take some work trying to frame it and then see if it's in the shot, guess I'll have to open a sub in PS and stretch to see if I've got the nebula!

 

Witch.jpg.c38e7dae23daa51878d8bd2d3c886457.jpg

Joel

Edited by smr
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I Found its tough going a few weeks back, 130 minutes of data and it could of done with a lot lot lot more.

I was using a unmodded full frame DSLR with a whitecat 51 & the next night I tried a modded DSLR, messed it up the framing with the crop factor thou and cut half of it off.

Im still playing around with the data in StarTools but having problems trying to tease out the Nebula. I will however try with photoshop but I don't expect any better results.

So the only advise I can give is collect as many hours of data as you can and use Rigel to frame your images.

That said Im still new to AP so ill be looking at what other members advise too.

 

Good luck.

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My own effort had about 14 hours. https://www.astrobin.com/full/383965/0/

It's faint. It does have a nice Ha background, too, for a modded camera, but that's optional! There are two other specific problems: the first are geostationary satellites which abound in this area so a good sigma clip stacking routine and a lot of subs are essential. The second, which may or may not afflict you, is flare from Rigel out of shot. If you get this problem the solution may be to make some 'repair' panels, with fewer subs than your main image, with the scope pointing somewhat closer to Rigel. Once in shot, or almost in shot, Rigel may not create flares. It is very common to find flares from stars out of shot which vanish when the star is in shot.

It's a tough one but a thriller to work on. Go for it.

Olly

Edited by ollypenrice
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I’ve never attempted because of where i live . I have seen several in the past that were excellent and the best i saw was taken with a Skywatcher 90mm short tube . Even then numerous subs for over a 4-hr period of time was used . So all I’ll suggest is if you have a 90mm refractor or smaller would be best . When you mention 55-250 that sounded like the standard lens and if so you'll deal with alot of CA because of Rigel . Unless you use proper filters but if you do then there is another factor of time . But if your able to use a lens with say f/2.8 to f/3 then maybe you can have a better chance . As mentioned though framing Rigel is a key factor to any lens flare so do some trial test shots before you go full time on it to see how flare effects ime from Rigel . 

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