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Elephant's trunk IC1396


hectorbdn

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That is a super image with lots of detail, nicely captured. Just a suggestion, I would selectively darken the background quite a bit to give it some depth and make it more moody, but otherwise a very nice image.

Edited by dave_galera
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9 minutes ago, dave_galera said:

That is a super image with lots of detail, nicely captured. Just a suggestion, I would selectively darken the background quite a bit to give it some depth and make it more moody, but otherwise a very nice image.

Hola! yeah I tried that (https://flic.kr/p/2hcZTf6)  but atm I prefer the softer result , it depends on my mood! thanks! 

 

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2 hours ago, knobby said:

How do you keep the star colours natural looking ?

Hello, in NB imaging is very common to see magenta stars, those just hurts my eyes, I erase any star prior merging the channels that's how my stars are natural looking, my stars are from the Halpha only, they are white yes and sometimes a little blueish but I prefer that one miliion times than magenta stars, in my opinion. Even doing this procedure usually remains some magenta stars but I get rid of them 

Edited by hectorbdn
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58 minutes ago, Laurin Dave said:

Have you tried this pixinsight trick to get rid of magenta halos..   invert the image .. the halos will now be green..  use scnr to to remove the halos then re-invert and they're gone..

Dave

that's how I get rid of any magenta stars and background cast that could remain!  I erase the stars for tonemapping also because of the different size of them can show weird results sometimes, even just having stars from Halpha usually some magenta stars remains, 

 

thank you ! :D 

Edited by hectorbdn
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10 hours ago, knobby said:

Thats beautiful, makes me want to invest in an O3 and S2 filter !

Yeah, me too!!   Great image, I think I like the original version than the darker one too, but could easily change my mind.  It seems the darker one loses some of the fainter nebulosity in the middle?

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1 hour ago, Brian28 said:

Very nice pic  👍......  I have a question ..  why did you half the exposure time for the Ha filter ..  but triple the number of exposures .. over the SII and OIII ..   ? 

Brian 

thanks Brian, i will explain, in my case i'm a traveller so i have to go far in search of a dark sky , that means I ususally can only go out once a month , so, I need to take what i think is the best for only one night. The point is: I use the Halpha as luminance so I need it to be in the best shape i can, Halpha has a lot more signal than o3 and s2 so 300seconds is enough for most DSOs , since o3 and s2 are very faint, in my experience 600 seconds get better result than 300 even with few subs. o3 and s2 puts color in the halpha only. And that's it, if you don¡t understand something please let me know and I will try to explain it, I hope my english is understable at least :p 

 

greetings! 

Edited by hectorbdn
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34 minutes ago, craigg said:

Yeah, me too!!   Great image, I think I like the original version than the darker one too, but could easily change my mind.  It seems the darker one loses some of the fainter nebulosity in the middle?

Thanks Craig, matter of taste i guess! 😛 hmmm now you say ... yes, it seems like it's harder to see that faint nebulosity hmmm 

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1 hour ago, hectorbdn said:

thanks Brian, i will explain, in my case i'm a traveller so i have to go far in search of a dark sky , that means I ususally can only go out once a month , so, I need to take what i think is the best for only one night. The point is: I use the Halpha as luminance so I need it to be in the best shape i can, Halpha has a lot more signal than o3 and s2 so 300seconds is enough for most DSOs , since o3 and s2 are very faint, in my experience 600 seconds get better result than 300 even with few subs. o3 and s2 puts color in the halpha only. And that's it, if you don¡t understand something please let me know and I will try to explain it, I hope my english is understable at least :p 

 

greetings! 

No all clear ,   just thought  I would ask ..   👍

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