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IDAS P2, D1 & D2 on DSLR Sample Subs


RyanParle

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would anyone who is using any of the IDAS P2, D1 or D2 filters on an unmodified DSLR be kind enough to share one of their subs? .Fits format would be ideal but Camera Raw will be fine also.

I have been failing to correct the colour balance of my images taken with a Baader Moon & Skyglow Neodymium filter and am considering changing it for an Astronomik CLS or one of the above IDAS filters, i woud like to make a comparison between the different filters to help me decide which one to buy.

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Thanks but I am fed up to the back teeth of reading review and comparisons, i've been looking at them for weeks now!

I specifically want to use sample fits / raw files so that i can experiment with the colour balance myself to see in real world terms what difference each filter makes to the processing.

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From experience the CLS filters give quite a bad colour cast, with stars appearing cyan / green. People obviously cope with this and can correct the colour cast, but I want able to and gave up on it. 

I've used a couple of IDAS LP filters in the past, I can't remember the designations but it was around 5 to 7 years ago. I loved them, very good at blocking yellow sodium LP and no noticable colour cast. 

 

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2 minutes ago, Starflyer said:

From experience the CLS filters give quite a bad colour cast, with stars appearing cyan / green. People obviously cope with this and can correct the colour cast, but I want able to and gave up on it. 

I've used a couple of IDAS LP filters in the past, I can't remember the designations but it was around 5 to 7 years ago. I loved them, very good at blocking yellow sodium LP and no noticable colour cast. 

 

Thanks for that, i've tried a sample image through a CLS and found that the cast was there but was easy to process out.

I would really like to see a sub or two shot through the IDAS filters before I jump in and buy one.

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Here you go Ryan:

This is a single 480s sub of the Pacman Nebula from my D5300 using an IDAS-D1. The camera was unmodded at the time. The sub has been calibrated with Bias and Flats. Note, this one was taken from LP hell - Class 8 Bortle, Mag 18.7:

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AhhWC3D3zU7BpGWvXnFQoMB809dE

And here is another. This one is a single 360s sub (again calibrated) of M42, using the IDAS-D1 and before i got the camera modified. The main difference with this one compared to the one above, is that this one was taken form darker skies, Class 4 Bortle, Mag 20.5:

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AhhWC3D3zU7BpGdDVQWCk3PGmLmK

HTH. 

 

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52 minutes ago, Xiga said:

Here you go Ryan:

This is a single 480s sub of the Pacman Nebula from my D5300 using an IDAS-D1. The camera was unmodded at the time. The sub has been calibrated with Bias and Flats. Note, this one was taken from LP hell - Class 8 Bortle, Mag 18.7:

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AhhWC3D3zU7BpGWvXnFQoMB809dE

And here is another. This one is a single 360s sub (again calibrated) of M42, using the IDAS-D1 and before i got the camera modified. The main difference with this one compared to the one above, is that this one was taken form darker skies, Class 4 Bortle, Mag 20.5:

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AhhWC3D3zU7BpGdDVQWCk3PGmLmK

HTH. 

 

Perfect! Thanks for that Ciarán I'm now sold on the IDAS, colour balance was super easy with those images. Now to decide if i want the D1 or D2, from what i understand the D1 is suited to most "traditional" light pollution & the D2 helps reduce the effect of LED lighting as well.

In my town it is mostly lit by HPS, but there have been a few LED street lights installed over the last few years., for future proofing i would think that the D2 would be the best bet, any opinions on that?

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5 hours ago, RyanParle said:

Perfect! Thanks for that Ciarán I'm now sold on the IDAS, colour balance was super easy with those images. Now to decide if i want the D1 or D2, from what i understand the D1 is suited to most "traditional" light pollution & the D2 helps reduce the effect of LED lighting as well.

In my town it is mostly lit by HPS, but there have been a few LED street lights installed over the last few years., for future proofing i would think that the D2 would be the best bet, any opinions on that?

I wouldn't worry too much about future proofing for now. Just get the one that best suits your skies as they are now. It  could still take the council years to convert all the streetlights over to Led, and in any case, should you need to replace the filter, you can always sell it on for 2/3 - 3/4 of the RRP. 

If you can find one on the 2nd hand market, then even better. I got lucky with mine on ABS for around £100.

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6 hours ago, RyanParle said:

Perfect! Thanks for that Ciarán I'm now sold on the IDAS, colour balance was super easy with those images. Now to decide if i want the D1 or D2, from what i understand the D1 is suited to most "traditional" light pollution & the D2 helps reduce the effect of LED lighting as well.

In my town it is mostly lit by HPS, but there have been a few LED street lights installed over the last few years., for future proofing i would think that the D2 would be the best bet, any opinions on that?

i have the D2 ,but our town /county is 99.9% LED streetlights  

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Do any of you guys have any preference between the standard filer housing and the QRO version? The claim is that the QRO reduces reflections, have any of you suffered from this? what sort of optics are most likely to be affected by reflection issues?

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