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ASI178MM Cool / Samyang f2 (Veil)


Uranium235

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I've been sitting on this one for a couple of weeks, but cant see why I cant give it an airing :) not that I'd want to set up tonight, the air out there is just plain toxic at the moment (bonfire smoke with no wind to blow it away)... almost like a smog.

Taken with the f2 Samyang and the ASI178MM Cool

60x300 (Ha)

 

Thanks for looking! :)

Cyg-Loop_PS_85.thumb.jpg.f0f7bd0cffd516372b54f93766681ce2.jpg

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13 hours ago, Adam J said:

Is this a single tile? If so that is a great FOV with such a small sensor.

Very nice image.

Thanks :) yep, that's just one panel. Going short on the FL is probably the best way to make use of the pixel size on that camera. 

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6 hours ago, Uranium235 said:

Thanks :) yep, that's just one panel. Going short on the FL is probably the best way to make use of the pixel size on that camera. 

Yes I always thought that chip would be nice around 250mm. Something like a Borg 55FL.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi, I'm a newbie to the forum but saw this post about the 178 camera. Don't want to take it over but thought I might show an ASI178MM-Cool image taken last  night with a William Optics Star71mm at 350mm focal length; helps with an idea of field of view of this chip? For info, this is a stack of 18 guided images at 240 seconds per exposure, no darks, no flats.

Hope that's of some interest,

Alan C.

 

Horse and flame 31Jan19 Ha4min WO77ASI178mm A Clitherow.jpg

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5 hours ago, clitherowclan1 said:

Hi, I'm a newbie to the forum but saw this post about the 178 camera. Don't want to take it over but thought I might show an ASI178MM-Cool image taken last  night with a William Optics Star71mm at 350mm focal length; helps with an idea of field of view of this chip? For info, this is a stack of 18 guided images at 240 seconds per exposure, no darks, no flats.

Hope that's of some interest,

Alan C.

Your image gives a good indication of what the raw uncalibrated data looks like - especially that starbust amp glow in the bottom left. Thats why calibration (with darks at least) is mandatory with this camera. Once fully calibrated you will be able to make much better use of the data you have there.

One word of caution, if you have yet to take darks - do it roughly the same ambient outside temperature at which your L frames were taken. Thats why with this camera (as the seasons progress) I periodically dedicate the last hour of each imaging session to taking fresh darks. Theyre short subs, so it doesnt take long to build a half-decent stack.

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Thanks for that, I am in the process of shooting a set of darks right now; its below freezing outside so it matches well the conditions when i took the data last night. Can't do anything about the slightly soft focus in the light-frames nor the light-halos around the stars from the misty atmosphere here in Scotland last night but I will calibrate the image once I have suitable darks and flats. Still, the image gives a good idea of the field of view at 350mm focal length.

Alan C.

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21 minutes ago, clitherowclan1 said:

Thanks for that, I am in the process of shooting a set of darks right now; its below freezing outside so it matches well the conditions when i took the data last night. Can't do anything about the slightly soft focus in the light-frames nor the light-halos around the stars from the misty atmosphere here in Scotland last night but I will calibrate the image once I have suitable darks and flats. Still, the image gives a good idea of the field of view at 350mm focal length.

Alan C.

yes darks are a must with this camera. It will greatly improve the image.

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