atik infinity & evo 9.25

[2STAR]

Hi, I can visually  locate Clusters & Galaxies with the precise goto method and get them centered in the ep, the tracking is ok also, but i cant get them on the chip to show on the screen of my laptop.

I think I am probably doing something basically wrong but cant see what lol, anyone have the similiar set up to me, i tried with the 6.3 FR and without it, with the star diag and without it etc.

Any suggestions please

Eric

ps I have read and re-read the infinity instructions , been on there site etc but to no avail !!!

[DoctorD]

Hi Eric

The field of view with your Atik will be quite small - what eyepiece are you using to centre your targets?

Are you finding any stars - just not landing on your target?

The F6.3 reducer should be about 105mm from the CCD to get F6.3 - so a diagonal or spacers will be necessary.

I'd also suggest that your initial alignment is done with the camera and not an eyepiece - this is what I do with all my scopes but I find it especially useful with my C8 SCT. Bear in mind that I usually work at F3.3 which gives me a wide field of view.

HTH

 

Paul

 

[2STAR]

10 hours ago, DoctorD said:

Hi Eric

The field of view with your Atik will be quite small - what eyepiece are you using to centre your targets?

Are you finding any stars - just not landing on your target?

The F6.3 reducer should be about 105mm from the CCD to get F6.3 - so a diagonal or spacers will be necessary.

I'd also suggest that your initial alignment is done with the camera and not an eyepiece - this is what I do with all my scopes but I find it especially useful with my C8 SCT. Bear in mind that I usually work at F3.3 which gives me a wide field of view.

HTH

 

Paul

 

Paul, I bought the Orion 20mm illuminated reticle eyepiece just for this one job of alignment, last night it worked perfectly  as per Atik Instructions I centered on a fairly bright star, I focused correctly on the star, (left it for a few minutes to check it was tracking ok, fine ) switched the eyepiece for the camera again as per instructions, used the precise GOTO on the Celestron Handset (it goes to the closest star to object) focus was again good and in center on laptop screen, pressed enter on handset, scope moved to object ? but could not get object on screen from chip.

Prior to all this with the 20mm ep I tested the precise GOTO on the Hercules Globular Cluster and it was spot on, and also tested on leo triplet  m65 & M66 same spot on.

Eric

[DoctorD]

Hi Eric

When you replaced the eyepiece with the camera did you get an image of the alignment star - this needs to be the first thing you do to ensure that you have focus.

It's unusual for the camera and eyepiece to be parafocal so you will need to adjust the focus when swapping between eyepiece and camera.

What exposure are you using for the DSO - Hercules Cluster should be an easy target. My HEQ5 is often out when slewing to a target, most times it's somewhere on the screen but not always and thats at 660mm Focal length (C8 @ F3.3).

I think that your 20mm eyepiece will have a significantly bigger field of view than the Atik, even when used with your F6.3 reducer.

So we need to determine whether or not you have goto accuracy issues or your exposure is wrong - I've no experience of the Atik camera, perhaps others could help with device specific help.

CS

Paul

 

[RobertI]

Hi Eric,

I have used the precise goto feature on my celestron mount and it has been very accurate for me. From everything you say, given that the alignment star is in focus and exactly in the centre of the camera FOV, the object should definitely be in the centre of the camera field of view after a precise goto slew.

Can you provide more details of the objects you were trying to view and the exposure lengths you were using? My understanding is that F6.3 might be rather slow and challenging for faint objects with the Infinity colour and you would have to do an extreme stretch of the image, but I would have thought F6.3 would be ok for clusters and brighter nebulae/galaxies.

As Paul says you may want to check that you are operating at F6.3 and not a lot slower due to incorrect reducer spacing. 

Rob

[HiloDon]

Hi Eric,

Like Doc suggested, keep it basic and simple.  Go to a bright star near M13.  Take out the eyepiece and put the camera in.  You only need a short exposure, like 250ms.  Don't stack.  Focus the star.  Now slew to M13.  Try something like a five second exposure and you should see it.  Once you get the bright things, then you can go for dimmer stuff, but you might need 30 or 45 seconds of data to see it depending on conditions.  Some stretching might be needed, too.  Also check that FR spacing.

Don

[2STAR]

Hi, thanks all, good advice as usual, I will try all the recommendations and let you know of my progress as & when, cheers

Thank you Don, Paul & Rob

ps Will concentrate on M13 for starters ( one of my favourites as well) and not get too far ahead of my self lol

[2STAR]

5 hours ago, RobertI said:

Hi Eric,

I have used the precise goto feature on my celestron mount and it has been very accurate for me. From everything you say, given that the alignment star is in focus and exactly in the centre of the camera FOV, the object should definitely be in the centre of the camera field of view after a precise goto slew.

Can you provide more details of the objects you were trying to view and the exposure lengths you were using? My understanding is that F6.3 might be rather slow and challenging for faint objects with the Infinity colour and you would have to do an extreme stretch of the image, but I would have thought F6.3 would be ok for clusters and brighter nebulae/galaxies.

As Paul says you may want to check that you are operating at F6.3 and not a lot slower due to incorrect reducer spacing. 

Rob

Cheers Rob, will do

[Dom543]

It happens to me periodically that I know that the object should be there but I cannot see it on the screen. The three most common reasons are the following.

1. I forgot to remove the black cardboard from the filter slider that I use to make darks.

2. My focus is way off. Not even Sirius is detectable on the screen.

3. I forgot to push up the contrast slider from its default zero position to at least 50%.

Clear Skies!  --Dom

[2STAR]

 Hi, I think I may have 'stumbled' on at least what may be part of  my problem, as suggested I think the distance between the FR and Chip was too close, I just looked at a somewhat under exposed image of the Bubble Nebula NGC 7635 I took on my first attempt with the Atik, and have just realised that when I took this I had the FR to Chip  at 110mm, so I will use this set up again next chance I have to get out.

Eric

[2STAR]

On 5/4/2016 at 17:41, 2STAR said:

 Hi, I think I may have 'stumbled' on at least what may be part of  my problem, as suggested I think the distance between the FR and Chip was too close, I just looked at a somewhat under exposed image of the Bubble Nebula NGC 7635 I took on my first attempt with the Atik, and have just realised that when I took this I had the FR to Chip  at 110mm, so I will use this set up again next chance I have to get out.

Eric

Success at last thanks for all the help

eric

[2STAR]

On 5/4/2016 at 07:08, Dom543 said:

It happens to me periodically that I know that the object should be there but I cannot see it on the screen. The three most common reasons are the following.

1. I forgot to remove the black cardboard from the filter slider that I use to make darks.

2. My focus is way off. Not even Sirius is detectable on the screen.

3. I forgot to push up the contrast slider from its default zero position to at least 50%.

Clear Skies!  --Dom

yes i know what you mean about focus, i didnt think i had the object in view but twiddling the focus brought in on screen i think i may have had objects there in the past  but not  realised how important focus was to be honest lol, another little lesson for me.

eric

[2STAR]

Bhatinov mask is a best buy for me. focus spot on