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Everything posted by DoctorD

  1. Hi Have a look at Caravan TV's - there's some with AV input that would work with the SCB2000 and some have rechargable battery packs which may also prove useful. Here's one on Amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Televisions-Television-Freeview-DVB-T-T2-Resolution-10inch/dp/B07GV9PJ8L/ref=sr_1_13?adgrpid=56937086761&gclid=Cj0KCQiAovfvBRCRARIsADEmbRJzpY6nPhokTBouZhqiB8uOaW5HIv2GkdnVIYtpdqTKm1B3OPgl358aAs2kEALw_wcB&hvadid=259003072743&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9046700&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7312745804674728086&hvtargid=kwd-91708884&hydadcr
  2. Well.... It's been nearly 2 years since I posted on SGL (or any other astronomy forum) - work, and family commitments have meant that I've not had much time for astronomy recently. It's good to see the changes that have been made to what I have always consider to be my "baby" - this group was orginally created when there was a change to the forum software and the "Social Groups" were no longer supported - my Video Atronomy social group was turned into the Video Astronomy sub-forum, however the concept was always video and electronically assisted observing. I was originally ins
  3. Hi What camera and mount do you have and do you already have a PC in your observatory and what software are you using? There will be a solution but it just depends on your setup. Paul
  4. Great capture and detail, especially with NGC4232 and neighbours - what exposure is this? Paul
  5. Hi Huw It's a start - welcome to EAA/Video Astronomy, there's no going back I use an F3.3 SCT reducer on my Skymax 102 with a MAK-> SCT adapter or a 1.25" x0.5 reducer - makes a huge difference to the exposures. Let us know how you get on. Paul
  6. Hi Chris I still have my SDC435 but have not used it in ages - I think I might get it out and try it alongside the lodestar. CS Paul
  7. Hi Paul The display does not come back when you modify the display settings - only when you return it to the original window where it was launched. Paul
  8. Hi Well it’s been almost 6 years since I joined as a member of this community and this is my 1000th post - not a lot in 6 years really but I hope that my contribution has helped, especially here in the Video Astronomy section. I still think of this section as my baby, although there are those who are now much more active than me. Back in 2011 there was no Video Astronomy section and at the time the Mods did not think that there was enough demand for one so Video Astronomy or Electronically Assisted Astronomy got lumped in with the Astro Photographers. So I set up a social group
  9. Hi Paul Once again thank you for al the effort you put into SSL - each version gets better and better. I've noticed a minor issue when running on OSx - I use two monitor setup (Macbook Air & external monitor) - when I move SSL main window from one monitor to the other the image area goes black and does not refresh until I move it back to the original screen. Moving the Image Display window between monitors works OK. This is not a new bug - I have seen it in previous versions but forgot to mention it. Clear skies Paul
  10. Hi Starlight Live is great for the Starlight Xpress cameras, Lodestars in particular. Both this and Sharpcap run on a PC/Laptop so you'll need a HDMI output to a large screen. HTH Paul
  11. Hi Yes, that should work - I have used a similar one to capture the above images. Some people have experienced problems with the cheaper capture devices but mine worked OK. Paul
  12. Hi These cameras (SCB2000) work best at F4 and below, at maximum integration you are looking at about 10s exposure so some form of tracking will be necessary (AZ is fine). You can use cheap 1.25" focal reducers but need to make sure your scope has sufficient focus travel. The field of view is similar to a 6mm eyepiece so you may need some focal reduction depending upon which scope you use. HTH Paul
  13. Hi A few years back the SCB 2000 was the camera that many people used: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SAMSUNG-SCB-2000PH-1-3-HIGH-RESOLUTION-DAY-NIGHT-CAMERA-600TVL-230V-AC-/152299740629?hash=item2375c59dd5:g:wwIAAOSwx2dYFnKb You'll also need a CS-1.25" adapter such as this: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/low-profile-125-nosepiece-c-threads.html You can improve the SCB 2000 sensitivity by removing the built in IR filter - however, you can use it with it in place. You'll also need a 12V power supply and some means of viewing the video - these cameras are Comp
  14. Hi memoryman I've no experience of night vision cameras, although I've seen a few people experiment with it, there are security cameras such as the SBC2000/SDC435, which I have used, that have a night vision mode which can be used for EAA and can be used without a computer. However for the remote viewing experience you can share I'd still recommend the Lodestar X2 camera and Starlight Live software - in case you missed it, here's a video showing a typical nights viewing speeded up by x16 - C8 SCT with F3.3 reducer on HEQ5 mount Lodestar-C (not X2) and Starlight live running on a 2009
  15. Hi Memoryman I'm biased - I spent my money on the lodestar and am very happy with it, however I've not experienced any of the other CCDs (only the SDC435 video camera). If I was spending my money again I'd get the latest Lodestar X2 mono (I have the colour lodestar) and go galaxy hunting and a little narrow band. Starlight live also allows you to do multi spectral captures live - adding each colour as you go. Just make sure you image at F4 or below and you won't be dissapointed! HTH Paul
  16. Hi Memoryman You will need to consider what software you will use for EAA/VA - a big part of the EAA experience is the ability to see the images on screen with minimal user manipulation and in particular, the ability to repeat the process automatically with each new capture. Starlight Live, Sharpcap and Atik Infinity software provide these features but I'm not sure what is available for the Moravian cameras. Nytecam produces great results using the standard Starlight Live capture software which shows you do not need dedicated EAA software but I think it can make a real difference to
  17. Hi Jim Nice to see your set up - a permanent pier must be a real advantage. I have my scope and mount set up in the garage and move it out to marks on my drive so can be set up in about 15 mins also, however, I find that the polar alignment is never quite right and I cannot be bothered with drift alignment as I don't think it's necessary for EAA. (Quite a handful with the C8 on board!). I usually set up with the Macbook alongside the scope then move indoors with a 10m USB extension. I've recently been testing a 150' CAT-5 to USB extender off *-Bay with a 15m CAT-6 flexible cabl
  18. Hi Jim I made an animated GIF out of your images - hope you don't mind: Shows very clearly the effects of increased exposure. CS Paul
  19. Hi Jim Fantastic video - looks like the C6/Hyperstar/Ultrastar has a really useful sensitivity and FoV. I think it would be great for Ha wide field if you have a filter although longer exposures would be necessary. Your work flow looks very similar to mine - I've also got Astrometry.net set up on my Mac so I can solve and sync to an image then recentre (which works most of the time!) Glad that OBS worked for you - another great piece of free software along with StarLight Live. CS Paul
  20. Hi Paul Thank you for all your efforts - you really have made EAA a joy for me, cannot wait to get out and try this version. CS Paul
  21. Hi Rob An 8" SCT work fine if you can get your hands on an F3.3 reducer - my primary EAA setup is a C8 with F3.3, although I also use a 4" MAK with the F3.3 at about F4 to good effect. A combination of F6.3 and 0.5x 1.25" reducer can also be used on these SCT/MAKs - your target should be F4 or there about's (lower better) - the F6.3 reducer is an x0.63 (only F6.3 if you use it with an F10 SCT). You can use your existing 0.5 reducer with the 6" SCT (or any other scope for that matter) - SCT/MAKs have a wide focus range and can accommodate many different reducer configurations.
  22. Hi I've been using Astrometry.net with SSL and EQMAC under OSx - I've a Python script that looks for the newest PNG file in a directory and and solves locally, you can then SYNC to these new coordinates. It took a lot of set up as you have to compile Astrometry.net for your system, no packages available however it has been worthwhile as it saves a lot of effort in finding target. You simply slew to the target take a short exposure then solve & SYNC followed by another goto which usually puts the target in the middle of the image. Ceartainly a great help when remote observing
  23. Hi I have both the F6.3 and F3.3 reducers and use them with my C8 and Lodestar - to be honest the F6.3 does not get much use as the FoV and speed with the F3.3 suits me. Note that the reducer to CCD spacing is quite critical with the F3.3 - get it wrong and you'll get bad distortion. HTH Paul
  24. Hi Jim I think what you are describing is caused by vignetting - although I'd have thought that you should not see this with the Hyperstar and Ultrastar CCD? I've noticed it when I try stretch the image to the limit with my F3.3 reducer. Paul
  25. Hi Jim I use a similar method with my Lodestar-C and F3.3 reducer - 500ms or 1s exposures to frame the object, no stacking and stretched until I can see the object. You can see my work flow in this speeded up video: Blatantly plugging my video Have a look at Open Broadcast Software (Studio) - I use it for streaming and for stream capture, works on OSx and Windows: https://obsproject.com/ Great results with the Hyperstar! CS Paul
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