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Baader Maxbright Binoviewer. What to get?

Altitude

By Altitude
in Discussions - Binoculars

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Altitude

Altitude

Posted
Posted

This is my first (second after introduction) post with questions.

After observing the sky with a my telescope few times, I've noticed that next day I have a headache. I think it's related to telescope single eyepiece set up. I also have a microscope, on which I spent more hours and late stays at night and never had this issue. My microscope is a "binocular " 100 years old B&L . Maybe my brain is trying to see everything through telescope with my two eyes (like in my microscope) or it's something else thats causing a strain. Regardles, I want the binoviewer for other reasons beside the fatigue...

I am going to buy Baader Maxbright Binoviewer for my 6" 750mm Newtonian.

If anyone can help me to determine what needs to be purchased along, I will be appreciate.

So, with my 750 mm tube should I get the 1.25, 1.7, or 2.6 glasspath model? I know I will need to reach the focus, but I don't want to overpower magnification.

I have set of Orion wide field eyepieces (6mm, 9mm, 15mm and 20mm). I am thinking to get a second set to use with my binoviewer. I am tight on the budget and cannot go now with very high end eyepieces. Should I get a pair of 10mm or 20mm "regular" eyepieces instead?

When it comes to filters, do I need to have also a pair of them, or I can use only one?

Any suggestions guys?

Thank you in advance!

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denis0007dl

denis0007dl

Posted
Posted

Baader Maxbright do not worth to buy. It comes from same factory in China as William Optics, TS, Celestron, Astro-Professional...

Here is link  http://www.united-optics.com/products/Telescope_Accessories/Binoviewer_and_Barlow/Binoviewer_and_Barlow/Binoviewer%20and%20Barlow.html

All of them have same size of prisms!

Best eyepiece holders have TS, Astro-Professional and simillar because they are self centring!

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F15Rules

F15Rules

Posted
Posted

I recently bought a new set of Baader Maxbrights. I haven't had much chance to use them yet thanks to UK weather, but first peep through an F16 3" refractor was very good.  I've also owned two pairs of WO binoviewers. There ARE differences, although subtle. The main attraction of the Baader for me is that they have 23mm aperture vs 20mm for WO etc and can be adapted to a wide range of Baader accessories, prisms etc, which I might want to do some day.

All bvs eat up in-focus in a refractor and I always wanted to use bvs without needing a barlow, to maximise the field of view and lowest magnification possible. As I bought these for my D&G 5" refractor I've bitten the bullet and sent my OTA tube to have 130mm chopped off it :eek:  :p ...this will allow me to use a 2" diagonal with no barlow and with my Moonlite focuser will provide a very secure base for the Maxbrights to sit in. I'll post up a review when I have the OTA back, hopefully within the next fortnight.

The WO units are of a good build quality, similar to the Baaders. I believe the Baaders have improved prism seats comparable to the MK V high end BVs. 

A plus for the WO is the inclusion of the pair of very nice WA eyepieces: personally, I don't rate the provided x1.6OCS barlow and much prefer the Baader Zoom barlow although it gives higher magnification (x 2.25). THe WA eyepieces are very nice though.

Hope that helps.

Dave

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denis0007dl

denis0007dl

Posted
Posted

I recently bought a new set of Baader Maxbrights. I haven't had much chance to use them yet thanks to UK weather, but first peep through an F16 3" refractor was very good.  I've also owned two pairs of WO binoviewers. There ARE differences, although subtle. The main attraction of the Baader for me is that they have 23mm aperture vs 20mm for WO etc and can be adapted to a wide range of Baader accessories, prisms etc, which I might want to do some day.

All bvs eat up in-focus in a refractor and I always wanted to use bvs without needing a barlow, to maximise the field of view and lowest magnification possible. As I bought these for my D&G 5" refractor I've bitten the bullet and sent my OTA tube to have 130mm chopped off it :eek:  :p ...this will allow me to use a 2" diagonal with no barlow and with my Moonlite focuser will provide a very secure base for the Maxbrights to sit in. I'll post up a review when I have the OTA back, hopefully within the next fortnight.

The WO units are of a good build quality, similar to the Baaders. I believe the Baaders have improved prism seats comparable to the MK V high end BVs. 

A plus for the WO is the inclusion of the pair of very nice WA eyepieces: personally, I don't rate the provided x1.6OCS barlow and much prefer the Baader Zoom barlow although it gives higher magnification (x 2.25). THe WA eyepieces are very nice though.

Hope that helps.

Dave

Well, you are TOTTALY WRONG!

Baader Maxbright and William Optics binos have exactly SAME Clear Apertures!

So, it is 23mm CA on scope side, and 20-21mm CA on every eyepiece side!

I do any binoviewer supercharging, so I know all that results!

I can make any of them 24,5-25mm CA on scope side, and 25mm CA on every eyepiece side!

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JED-E3

JED-E3

Posted
Posted

Well, you are TOTTALY WRONG!

Baader Maxbright and William Optics binos have exactly SAME Clear Apertures!

So, it is 23mm CA on scope side, and 20-21mm CA on every eyepiece side!

I do any binoviewer supercharging, so I know all that results!

I can make any of them 24,5-25mm CA on scope side, and 25mm CA on every eyepiece side!

20-21mm so the Baader is 1mm bigger?

I don't think your answers are very diplomatic or especially helpful to the OP who has stated that he intends to buy the Baader Maxbrights, but who knows, he might want to send them 5000 miles to an aggressive Croatian for a bit of forced induction.

This is my first (second after introduction) post with questions.

After observing the sky with a my telescope few times, I've noticed that next day I have a headache. I think it's related to telescope single eyepiece set up. I also have a microscope, on which I spent more hours and late stays at night and never had this issue. My microscope is a "binocular " 100 years old B&L . Maybe my brain is trying to see everything through telescope with my two eyes (like in my microscope) or it's something else thats causing a strain. Regardles, I want the binoviewer for other reasons beside the fatigue...

I am going to buy Baader Maxbright Binoviewer for my 6" 750mm Newtonian.

If anyone can help me to determine what needs to be purchased along, I will be appreciate.

So, with my 750 mm tube should I get the 1.25, 1.7, or 2.6 glasspath model? I know I will need to reach the focus, but I don't want to overpower magnification.

I have set of Orion wide field eyepieces (6mm, 9mm, 15mm and 20mm). I am thinking to get a second set to use with my binoviewer. I am tight on the budget and cannot go now with very high end eyepieces. Should I get a pair of 10mm or 20mm "regular" eyepieces instead?

When it comes to filters, do I need to have also a pair of them, or I can use only one?

Any suggestions guys?

Thank you in advance!

Regarding the glasspath corrector I would imagine you'd need around 2x but your reflector is short focal length so could be tricky.

There is a certain amount of experimentation required with binoviewers on Newtonians unless you can find someone using them with the same scope and I would say your scope is fairly uncommon, in the uk at least.

Regarding eyepieces, the general consensus of opinion seems to be, get a good quality 20mm 68° or 25mm plossl pair and use different barlows/glasspath correctors to give more magnification. Using eyepieces shorter than 10mm focal length makes collimation much more critical.

You can put a 2" or 1.25" filter on the binoviewer nosepiece depending which size you use, though I'd recommend a 2" because it feels more secure.

James.

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F15Rules

F15Rules

Posted
Posted

Denis,

I don't think you see the point that was made. You may be right about the clear aperture, I don't know - I just said what I believed from reports and reviews I have read online. The point was and is that there is no need to be aggressive in your replies - on this forum we pride ourselves on being respectful to each other, and trying to help each other with expanding our knowledge. 

I tried to give my honest opinion on both Baader and WO products: I believe I was very fair to the WO bv's which are a nice item, but I stand by my remarks that the Baader is more versatile.

Either product would offer good performance for the price: we would all like Mk Vs or Tele Vue etc but most of us don't enjoy that level of spare cash to invest.

To Altitude, the original poster, I am sorry for some of the remarks made on your thread and I hope that you got the help you needed to make an informed decision :laugh:

kind regards,

Dave

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denis0007dl

denis0007dl

Posted
Posted

By my long experience and testment, for this thread, I stay on my statement:

"Baader Maxbright do not worth to buy. It comes from same factory in China as William Optics, TS, Celestron, Astro-Professional...

Here is link  http://www.united-op...and Barlow.html

All of them have same size of prisms!

Best eyepiece holders have TS, Astro-Professional and simillar because they are self centring!"

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denis0007dl

denis0007dl

Posted
Posted

All these China binos usually have collimation problems when you get them from dealer new, and it is hard to collimate, and even when you collimate them right, collimation do not holds well as it could be!

Otherwise, all these China binos are GREAT performers optically!

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jetstream

jetstream

Posted
Posted

Dave, no worries, my english is bad, and sentences sometimes are not good formulated, so content can be not as how it should be :smiley:

Language barriers can be hard to deal with and sometimes posts can be misinterpreted, myself I have learned a lot about binoviewers here recently . The info and advice from all members is appreciated and someday I hope to buy a pair of binos. The Chinese products sound good, with a couple of issues.

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jetstream

jetstream

Posted
Posted

All these China binos usually have collimation problems when you get them from dealer new, and it is hard to collimate, and even when you collimate them right, collimation do not holds well as it could be!

Otherwise, all these China binos are GREAT performers optically!

How do we collimate binoviewers or is there any easily found info? As far as EP's I would think ( but don't know) that smaller type EP's with good eyerelief would be a good place to start. If I get a pair of binos I maybe try a second 18mm BCO to start the show and go from there.

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denis0007dl

denis0007dl

Posted
Posted

How do we collimate binoviewers or is there any easily found info? As far as EP's I would think ( but don't know) that smaller type EP's with good eyerelief would be a good place to start. If I get a pair of binos I maybe try a second 18mm BCO to start the show and go from there.

There is absolutely no info anywhere about collimation!

On ever bino you must remove plastic side parts, then you have 4 very tiny thin screws which holds each prism. In this case, I replace these thin screws with 6 fat screws which holds each prism, and collimation is like a thank then.

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denis0007dl

denis0007dl

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Posted

What is the goal(s) in binoviewer collimation? I have seen pictures of them apart but don't understand the goal or process of collimating them.

Well, if bino is not in good collimation, you can not merge image with both eyes, which means you see double picture which confure your brain and you do not get actual performance you should get.

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