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JED-E3

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About JED-E3

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    Shropshire
  1. Just keep in mind that the roads around the stiperstones area are not great, single file lanes mostly. It would be much quicker to get to Carding Mill valley side of the Long Mynd but there is more light pollution, being closer to Shrewsbury. Just to give an idea, as the crow flies, I live 20 miles from the Stiperstones but it takes an hour to drive there.
  2. Yes that the one, nice clear horizon to the east and south. This was the view southish 30 seconds at iso3200 probably f2.8, 14mm on fullframe dslr. md september. corrosponding roughly with this view The view north is much worse with the light domes from Shrewsbury and Telford, I don't think I took any pictures that way though. James.
  3. I went there recently and it was pretty quiet, the carpark next to the stiperstones had one 'dodgey' car on it but I was there after midnight so it might be worse early on. I took some widefield shots of the milky way when I was there, I'll post one up in a bit to give you an idea of the skys.
  4. I guess, The batteries would last longer too I see that WEX has a 10% off discount on Canon IS binoculars at the moment using voucher code CAN10 Makes the 15x50s a little more tempting at £737 ish. not in stock though. You could get an extra 2% cashback from Quidco too.
  5. JED-E3

    130mm F4

    I think you need to ray trace this f4 scope to see if it is practical, there might be a reason why you can't buy one. For it to work you'll need a very low profile focuser and even then the secondary mirror will have to be huge.
  6. This is the Baader 2" to t2, I have one and I think it would reach focus with my 20mm Maxvision eyepieces but there was only a couple of mm in travel left. The replacement focuser was this one, I made a custom adapter, It's a bit of a beast but it was relatively cheap and I wanted a 3" focuser so I could cut down the tube without having the drawtube intruding into the light path, It works well but it's quite heavy. I don't remember exactly how much I cut the tube down but it was at least 40mm may have been more, the binoviewer and 2" herschel wedge has a long light path, I use M68 extension tubes, which screw into the 3" focuser when doing normal cyclops viewing. James.
  7. I may have misread you but If you are using the 1.25" nosepiece you'd be better off getting a 2" to T-2 nosepiece and doing away with the 1.25" to 2" adapter, that would likely gain you enough infocus to use native magnification. Also did you know the glass path correctors can used either in front of or behind the diagonal, If put on the scope side you get about 1.4x magnification. James. Ps, I have a Bresser ar127L, Maxbright binoviewer, T-2 prism and 1.25x GPC, although I have replaced the focuser on mine and shortened the ota so that I can binoview solar with a Baader Herschel wedge.
  8. Yep I'll have to check how long I've had mine. There was a thread on Cloudy Nights(?), that i can't find now, and the general consensus was 20 years max and less than half that if treated roughly. I think you have to judge these things on how much it costs per hour of use, and the fact that nothing will lose money faster than a new car and lots of people seem to have those.
  9. One thing to keep in mind with the Canon IS binoculars is that they effectively have a fixed lifespan, I believe the gyro mechanism wears out after a certain amount of use and they're not economical to repair. I own a pair of Canon is 10x30 and they're great but If I was spending £1000 I'd want something that could last a lifetime (touch wood that I last longer than 20yrs) James.
  10. I've got the baader 2.25x but i've never tried it with binoviewers, it is a 'short' barlow though so I suspect it will give much more than 2.25x with the long light path of a binoviewer behind it. James.
  11. Teleskop Express is the only place i've ever seen the 2x WO barlow for sale. http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p1364_William-2x-Wegausgleich-fuer-Bino-Ansatz---fuer-knappen-Fokus.html
  12. I'd be interested to know what aperture you used for the images, if you used f22 for example that would explain the lack of sharpness (because of diffraction), extra noise and dark images.
  13. Yep the Baader 32mm plossl is not good at all, if it were me I'd just get the 18mm BCO and the 2.25x barlow which can be screwed directly into the eyepiece to give 1.3x mag. That would give you 18mm,13mm and 8mm. Then you could decide if you needed the other BCOs. James.
  14. It only pushes the focal point out far enough to account for its own length when at the correct focus point for the eyepiece used. I just checked with my 2.5x PM, I focused it and then racked the focuser in 5mm then lifted the eyepiece out of the PM and it was 25mm up before it came into focus again. It's this effect that is useful when binoviewing. I can't visualise how a ray trace of this would look compared to a barlow, though I'd be interested to see it, I just know that it works. James.
  15. If you have an eyepiece correctly focused, take it out and put a powermate in front of it will still be focused however they do move the focal point, basically if the powermate is 'inside' of focus it pushes the focal point outwards. It's easy to see in practice if you rack your focuser inward and then lift the eyepiece out of the powermate until it comes to focus. This is certainly the case with the 2.5x Powermate, I use one with a binoviewer quite often. James.
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