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LP, what to do about it?

mballak

By mballak
in Getting Started With Imaging

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mballak

mballak

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Ok, most of us are dealing with LP but after a quick search of this forum I didn't find any definitive solutions. Below is a 300 sec sub at ISO 1600 with my 6D. I'm looking at getting a lumicon deep sky filter or similar but filters have their own draw backs. Any other solutions out there?

post-37865-140985563088_thumb.jpg

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mballak

mballak

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Thats actually pretty good my subs look like that after 30s i do find that some if not most of the LP can be removed in processing.

Alan

Interesting. Maybe it's a lesson in post processing that I need and not a filter.

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ronin

ronin

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Chuck the stuff in a car and drive to somewhere darker.

Process the data more.

A recent talk by an imager and it became apparent that he used about 6 or 8 diffeent software packages to process different aspects of the images he took. This also meant purchasing a special high power processing unit to do the job.

If LP is present there is no simple bit of magic for it's removal.

Don't know about Denver but we are getting more and more LED based lights and these are "white" so filters tend to be useless. When they werre first announced as producing less LP everyone wanted them. The reality however is slightly different, they are reasonable for visual but for AP they are worse.

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wxsatuser

wxsatuser

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Without a filter my 300sec subs look nearly as bad as yours.

Get a good filter you won't regret it.

This is with an Astronomik CLS CCD clip filter in my Canon 60Da.

Single 300sec sub Canon 60Da.....EF 200mm L @ f4.5 ISO 1600

post-30455-0-58992600-1409857587.jpg

Here is a single sub of M31 with a Hutech IDAS P2.

Single 300sec sub Canon 60Da.....EF 200mm L @ f4.5 ISO 1600

post-30455-0-77018200-1409857985.jpg

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lensman57

lensman57

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Ok, most of us are dealing with LP but after a quick search of this forum I didn't find any definitive solutions. Below is a 300 sec sub at ISO 1600 with my 6D. I'm looking at getting a lumicon deep sky filter or similar but filters have their own draw backs. Any other solutions out there?

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1409855629.826947.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Put an IDAS LPS P2 or D1 on the nosepiece.

A.G

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mballak

mballak

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Chuck the stuff in a car and drive to somewhere darker.

Process the data more.

A recent talk by an imager and it became apparent that he used about 6 or 8 diffeent software packages to process different aspects of the images he took. This also meant purchasing a special high power processing unit to do the job.

If LP is present there is no simple bit of magic for it's removal.

Don't know about Denver but we are getting more and more LED based lights and these are "white" so filters tend to be useless. When they werre first announced as producing less LP everyone wanted them. The reality however is slightly different, they are reasonable for visual but for AP they are worse.

I kinda had bet going with myself to see how long it would take for someone to say drive to a dark spot. :grin:   Though I agree, that has its own logistical issues to deal with.

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mballak

mballak

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You would most likely be ok with any of these filters, although I have never used the Lumicon.

My choice out of the other two is the Hutech followed by the Astronomik.

Really...i looks like you have less LP in your image with the Astronomik.

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Physicist13

Physicist13

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LP is a real pain for naked eye viewing but may not be for imaging. Main imaging solutions are Go some where without it (obvious, but tricky these days!), reduce exp time (SNR may suffer, but it may not..depends what the noise is due to), add LP filter (prety effective but may not block all and may block some useful light too). LP if severe will cause bright areas to saturate more quickly, this is the main problem....it will also add to the noise but this depends on target, sensor,temp etc.... ie bit complex. Using narrow band imaging is also very good for LP areas.

P

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Zakalwe

Zakalwe

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Ok, most of us are dealing with LP but after a quick search of this forum I didn't find any definitive solutions. Below is a 300 sec sub at ISO 1600 with my 6D. I'm looking at getting a lumicon deep sky filter or similar but filters have their own draw backs. Any other solutions out there?

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1409855629.826947.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's easily handled in processing. The single subs always look worse...stacking will improve the signal-to-noise ratio.

This is one of my old subs:

15142216701_78c2abd651_z.jpg

which resulted in this:

13713251985_13a090f19d_z.jpg

M31

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lensman57

lensman57

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Ok..so at risk of starting a never ending debate,  which filter?  IDAS LPS P2, Astronomik CLS CCD or  lumicon deep sky?  

Hi,

IDAS P2 is the classic wideband LP filter and probably the best. The D1 was designed to reduce the redness of the background sky in modded DSLRs in particular and has a similar spectral response curve the P2 with the exception that amost all of the Sii emission line is blocked off or seems so by examining the graphs. I have both and TBH I can not see a great deal of difference.

I have an Astronomik CLS Clip on my Modded DSLR and it works fine although it is more difficult to colour balance with this filter. The CLS Clip works more like NB LP filter and has a very similar response curve to a Baader UHC-s L Booster filter. I have used both filters for imaging DSOs with reasonable success but in my experience the IDAS filters allow a little more light through and therefore may require slightly less exposure but the difference is small.

Regards,

A.G

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mballak

mballak

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Hi,

IDAS P2 is the classic wideband LP filter and probably the best. The D1 was designed to reduce the redness of the background sky in modded DSLRs in particular and has a similar spectral response curve the P2 with the exception that amost all of the Sii emission line is blocked off or seems so by examining the graphs. I have both and TBH I can not see a great deal of difference.

I have an Astronomik CLS Clip on my Modded DSLR and it works fine although it is more difficult to colour balance with this filter. The CLS Clip works more like NB LP filter and has a very similar response curve to a Baader UHC-s L Booster filter. I have used both filters for imaging DSOs with reasonable success but in my experience the IDAS filters allow a little more light through and therefore may require slightly less exposure but the difference is small.

Regards,

A.G

Thanks A.G.  

Having a heck of a time finding the P2.  Most retailers only have the D1.  I think the CLS clip might give me a bit more flexibility because i think it will have utility with my camera lens for my wide filed Milky Way photography.  But I still haven't decided.  

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mballak

mballak

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That's easily handled in processing. The single subs always look worse...stacking will improve the signal-to-noise ratio.

This is one of my old subs:

15142216701_78c2abd651_z.jpg

which resulted in this:

13713251985_13a090f19d_z.jpg

M31

Got any resources, website, books etc you can share on processing. That is definitely my weakest link. I have PS but I suck at it.

Thanks

Mike

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mballak

mballak

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Here is the best I could do with the sub that I originally posted. I'm curious to see what someone with some processing skill could do. If anyone would like to take a hack at it I'm willing to send them the stacked tiff file. post-37865-140993619725_thumb.jpg

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lensman57

lensman57

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Here is the best I could do with the sub that I originally posted. I'm curious to see what someone with some processing skill could do. If anyone would like to take a hack at it I'm willing to send them the stacked tiff file. attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1409936195.027784.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could put the unmolested Tiff or better stll Fits file in Dropbox and post a link if you wish.

Regards,

A.G

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