Using a DSLR camera

[BrackForester]

Hi everyone

Like many others I've just started out on this.  My first telescope is a Sky-Watcher 130P which I am gradually getting used to.

I have attached my Canon 650d camera to it (via a 2x Barlow and T-Ring of course) and have so far taken some reasonable shots of the Moon (example attached)

Obviously the Moon is relatively easy since it is very clear on the viewing screen of the camera, with the 2x Barlow.

I'm now looking at turning my sights to the Planets e.g. Jupiter which is currently easily visible.  But clearly this is much smaller and as such difficult to get a clear focus with the camera attached. 

Is there any technique anyone can advise for getting the object in focus?  (attaching a laptop to the camera perhaps, and viewing on the larger screen?.....I'm just about to replace 650D with a 70D by the way, so will be able to do this wirelessly).  What effect would putting a lens extender between the camera and Barlow have, for instance?

Please tell me if I'm being stupid.  As I said I'm new to all this so on a steep learning curve.

Would be grateful for any advice.  (Maybe you think I should sell the gear and take up macramé or something?)  As I'm sure you will realise I have invested a fair bit of cash and I need to get some good results to impress the Mrs and 'justify' the expense.

Thanks in advance.

Mike

 

[sidelight]

Hi Mike,

For the planets I think the best option is to focus on the stars, I do now use a Bahtinov on my scopes and have to say focus has never been so little pain to get.  I use software with the camera, APT or BackyardEOS are fantastic and both have various focusing aides to use with or without masks.  Once focused then re-center the scope on Jupiter.

I am not sure or the effects of putting a lens extender in would have.  If you have one try it, if it works then great, if it doesn't then it cost you nothing, I did have some success this year by stacking 2 barlows but I also found of the 3 I have only 2 would play nicely together so I guess its a bit of a Rubbish shoot.

Cheers

Ross

[Owmuchonomy]

Two other things to consider.  DSLR cameras can be used for planets most commonly by taking crop mode video and stacking the frames in Registax or Autostakkert.  Canons take .mov files so for Registax you have to convert them to .avi.  For focussing I specifically chose a Canon 600D because of the flip out screen.  This makes focussing an absolute doddle.  You just centre a planet or star, switch on live view hit the x10 button and focus.  It works very well.  A 70D is fitted with an articulated screen so it will be easy to focus.  Your challenge will be to get the image scale big enough.

[BrackForester]

Thanks Guys.

I was using the flip screen on the 650D as you describe.  Trouble seemed to be that when I used the manual focusing on the eyepiece and also the 10x magnification on the camera the slightest knock or judder would send the image (Jupiter) flying off the screen, so it was very difficult to get an accurate focus. The scope tripod was on a concrete surface and was generally stable, but the smallest movement seemed to be amplified.

Also I can't really see how the software can help with focusing.  You still have to manually adjust the focus control.  Sorry if I'm being a bit dim.

Mike

[sidelight]

Thanks Guys.

Trouble seemed to be that when I used the manual focusing on the eyepiece and also the 10x magnification on the camera the slightest knock or judder would send the image (Jupiter) flying off the screen, so it was very difficult to get an accurate focus. The scope tripod was on a concrete surface and was generally stable, but the smallest movement seemed to be amplified.

The scope is magnifying things so you can see them, unfortunately at our end it magnifies any movement as well (the more magnification the worse it gets).  You are looking at an area of sky probably less than the size of you fingernail if you hold look at that at arms length.  So focusing can be a pain and is something that shouldn't be rushed, it is not unusual to spend 5 minutes or more focusing.  This is one reason why putting an electric focuser on scopes is so popular, you don't need to touch the scope.

[mitchelln]

Ideally you need a motor focuser so you don't touch the mount. Not sure if the SkyWatcher one fits the 130P though.

If you have an Android phone or tablet you can also control your Canon using DSLR Controller. This is a really great app. You get the live view on your phone/tablet and can control everything without touching the camera and introducing judder.

[sidelight]

Hi Mike,

Sorry about that hit the wrong button before I had completed the post so that last one is quite rough round the edges hopefully you get my drift though)

Also I can't really see how the software can help with focusing.  You still have to manually adjust the focus control.  Sorry if I'm being a bit dim.

The software helps as it can help measure things like the apparent width of a star in the image, so the lower that number the better the focus, it also gives a nice big image with additional magnification to see what is going on.  It also does things like averaging out things to help take seeing into account, and with certain focusing masks can provide visual help when focus is right.

Cheers

Ross

[oldpink]

Two other things to consider.  DSLR cameras can be used for planets most commonly by taking crop mode video and stacking the frames in Registax or Autostakkert.  Canons take .mov files so for Registax you have to convert them to .avi.  For focussing I specifically chose a Canon 600D because of the flip out screen.  This makes focussing an absolute doddle.  You just centre a planet or star, switch on live view hit the x10 button and focus.  It works very well.  A 70D is fitted with an articulated screen so it will be easy to focus.  Your challenge will be to get the image scale big enough.

yes Canon uses .Mov if you are saving to the the camera in movie mode

but if you use BYEOS or APT it streams it to the laptop as an AVI

[mitchelln]

PIPP is also really useful. https://sites.google.com/site/astropipp/

Converts to AVI and does useful things like cropping and centering. So you can produce an AVI with just the planet in it which saves the stacking software processing 90% black empty space

[Owmuchonomy]

A couple of great tips guys. Thanks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[baggywrinkle]

Have a look at the Back Yard Eos software package. Reasonably priced (around £30) and written for astro photography with Canon camera. Also includes a neat focus app and live view on the PC.

[Owmuchonomy]

Hi, I will take a look but I currently use EOS utilities which also does that stuff. I'll check out if there are extra functions. Does it run on OS X?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[baggywrinkle]

Not sure about OSX, but BYE allows a set up so that a program of shots can be taken and processed. Easy to use and has a nice red light effect so that screen glare is cut down.

[AstroAdam]

I use APT - similar sort of thing to BYE, but a bit cheaper.  The focus aid is very helpful on both packages - it enables you to focus based on a number rather than the actual image - basically, you twiddle back and forth until the number is as low as you can get it, indicating best focus.  It's all I use to do my focussing now!  

[AstroAdam]

Oh, and as has been mentioned, the way to do planetary is with video, and then stacking the resulting frames.  Allows you to get a few thousand 'shots' and bring out the best from each using Autostakkert or Registax.  I prefer the former as I find it's much easier and more intuitive to use, but I know lots of people prefer Regi...

[BrackForester]

Thanks to everyone who has replied to my post.   You have given me lots of information, for which I'm grateful, and I must now go away and study what you've told me and......... probably spend some more money!

I read somewhere else that people have successfully managed to fit an autofocuser to the 130p.  I thought that one of the problems might be that the knobs on the manual focuser seem to be glued on, but I gather that with a little bit of brute force they can be twisted off.  I'l get the wife to do it.....

As to the software options.  I already have EOS Remote on my Android phone, waiting for my EOS 70D to turn up, and I shall certainly look into some of your other suggestions.  I know that EOS Utilities is good for controlling the camera from a laptop too, as I've used it for ordinary photography.

I shall also try the video method of getting images of the planets.

So lots to try over the coming nights.  Just need some more clear skies now.

Thanks again for all your tips and suggestions.  Getting quite excited now.

Mike

[PeterCPC]

Hi

If it's any help, I use BYE with my Canon 550d and use it in Planetary mode for Jupiter. I use a Bahtinov mask for focusing on a star though as I find it mush easier than actually trying to focus on something like Jupiter because it's constantly on the move on the screen. I took this image of Jupiter using this method a few days ago.

Peter