What else is needed?

[rich_8377]

Hi. I have got a T Ring and T Adaptor for my Nikon D60 camera and am trying to work out how I can fit an eyepiece in there somewhere to increase the magnification. Do I put it directly into the T piece then attach it to the camera with a T Ring, as it looks like the eye piece could touch the sensor inside the camera if I do that. Or do I have to get another piece of kit? Thanks.

[Freddie]

With that kit there is no need for an EP.

[Sotein]

You need an EP adapter for that. Look for them in ebay

[Neeken]

Like me, I have a T-ring and a coma corrector (basically the same as a T-adapter, only it has optics in it that flattens the image before it hits the sensor).

I know you can get some kind of extension tube to put a barlow into to increase magnification, I've yet to get one though.

What I did was, equip my T-ring on my camera, then I used some electrical tape around my 2x barlow so it would fit snugly inside the opening of my T-ring. Now, this makes it fit into a 1.25" ep slot, instead of a 2" focuser like my adapter. But it did work, if it's good or not, I can't really say, cause I have nothing else to compare it to yet.

I did stitch this together from using a 2x barlow directly on my Canon T2i, not the best, not the worst.. http://i.imgur.com/LIbNyYm.jpg

[skywatcher58gb]

Hi Give us a clue what you are trying to attach it to.

Dave

[Oddsocks]

I assume you intend to do eyepiece projection photography using a low power eyepiece and your telescope in place of the normal camera lens.

You need a "T" mount projection camera adaptor, this is a barrel with the "T" thread at one end and a 1-1/2" nose piece that slips into the telescope focuser at the other.

You fit a low power eyepiece into the barrel, screw the barrel to the "T": mount camera adaptor, slide the camera and projection adaptor into the focuser and then adjust the telescope focus to project the image into the camera.

I have used this method many years ago and it does work but the results are not that great, especially if you try to use too high a power eyepiece.

The main problem is that only narrow eyepieces can fit in the barrel, usually Orthoscopic or Plossl types and perversely as you go down in power they become physically bigger and may not fit inside the adaptor body.

The other problem is there will be a large amount of chromatic aberration, colour fringing, around bright objects as the eyepiece is not designed to bring the entire colour spectrum to a single focus point way back inside the camera body, it would normally be focussed just over a centimetre away from the back of the eyepiece on the retina. The Orthoscopic eyepiece will give the minimum aberration as it has a naturally longer eyepiece to focus length.

All said though, I used to get some reasonable moon and planet images using this method with a Meade 10" LX200 and 35mm Canon A1 film camera, think that shows how long ago it was!

Here is a link to one of the least expensive variable projection camera adaptors:

http://www.365astron...ght-p-1976.html

And here is a link to a slightly more expensive wider version that allows for a wider eyepiece body to be used:

http://www.365astron...ion-p-2583.html

For the best quality images you have to image without additional magnification at prime focus using a "T" mount nosepiece and you control magnification by your choice of telescope focal length.

(not all telescopes can reach prime focus with all cameras, most refractors are ok but some Newtonian's are rather short of back focus, but that is another subject)

Here is a link to a "T" mount 1-1/4" nosepiece to allow prime focus photography if you don't already have one:

http://www.365astron...hread-p-19.html

Or a "T" mount to 2" nosepiece if you have a 2" focuser:

http://www.365astron...sbig-p-465.html

William.