Nikon DSLR to Skywatcher explorer 200pds

[ktdelain]

Hello,

I was wondering what I would need if I was going to try to hook up a Nikon DSLR to my Skywatcher Explorer 200?

what physical kit do I need and is there any recommended software I should investigate?

I'm not sure I'm quite ready to go down the whole AP route just yet, but I have 2 photographers in my family who have already started poking and asking how they hook up their kit to my scope! Between my Dad and my Brother they have a few DSLRs all Nikon, I think one might be a D70 (or 700? 7000? i forget!) and an array of web cams, older camera kit and bits and bobs of photo editing software and a couple of meaty computers to tinker with, oh and my (retired) Dad too! so I'm sure I will get sucked into a bit of photography before long!

Thanks once again for any help and advice!

[Druid]

Older Nikons are a bit of a pain in the bum, because the noise reduction mistakes stars for bad pixels and can't be turned off as far as I know. D70 would have that problem. D700 (I can confirm) doesn't.

The connection you can make using a t-ring to attach a camera adapter.

http://www.harrisontelescopes.co.uk/acatalog/Nikon_T_Ring.html

[Druid]

Might want to get advice from someone who knows the 200pds before buying anything though.

I see there can be pitfalls with other models that might also apply to yours -

[JamesF]

I believe the main pitfall with the 130P is that there's insufficient inwards focuser travel to bring a DSLR to focus. The PDS models have shorter tubes and a focal plane further "out" of the focuser and should not suffer from the same problem.

A suitable T-ring adaptor is probably the place to start. I think you should find that the focuser has a male T-thread. There's no lens or eyepiece involved. Effectively the telescope becomes the camera lens and the camera body just screws onto the focuser. Failing that you can get T-thread to 1.25" and 2" converters so you can just slide the camera into the focuser.

A fun place to start is probably imaging the Moon. It's relatively easy to get started and get results you can be happy with whilst getting the hang of what you're doing, especially given all the post-processing work that tends to be involved in astrophotography. And of course it's different every day.

James

[ktdelain]

Thanks folks, that helps - I think we'll get a t-ring adaptor and have a bit of a play around and work out what we're doing! especially as I've just found out that my Dad has just gone out today and a bought a new camera body, so he now has 2 camera bodies and is looking for any excuse to play! I think he's got a D70 and the new one is a D7100.

I also really like the idea of having a go at imaging the moon, as it's not hard to find! and we will definitely need to practice!

I was treated to a moon-set when we were away on holiday and even through my binoculars, it was breathtaking - shame i didn't have anything set up to take a photo!

[JamesF]

If you start off by trying to get a single well-focused image of the Moon, then you can move on to stacking multiple images which really allows you to pull out the detail. Getting the hang of focusing properly is the critical bit. When you get that far you might find this useful:

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/184192-full-disc-lunar-imaging-with-a-dslr/

James

[CedricTheBrave]

I took this with my Nikon D7000 and 200PDS last week

no stacking just a single frame

[ktdelain]

I took this with my Nikon D7000 and 200PDS last week

no stacking just a single frame

oooooooooo that's cool - right, so I will get a t-adaptor and we'll have a go!

And thanks James, the link also helped make things make a bit more sense - we are looking forward to experimenting now

[Shibby]

I used to image with a Nikon D70. Certainly wasn't as easy as with my 450D, but it is at least possible to do DSO imaging with it.

The best result I got was probably M33:

[ArmyAirForce]

I use a Nikon D50 on a SW 200PDS, mounted on an NEQ6. The inbuilt shutter operation is an issue, as the camera will only allow up to 30 second exposures, then the bulb setting. The bulb setting can only be operated by the button on the camera, or by an infra-red trigger, so you need to use a stop watch to time the opening and shutting of the shutter. There are ways around this with the Shoestring DSUSB/IR trigger. See below. A laptop and free software can then control the number of exposures, exposure length and time delay between exposures.

You can however get reasonable results wiith shorter exposures. M31 below is just 30 minutes of 2 minute exposures stacked together, taken at a dark site.

[Shibby]

I actually went a step further and got an "AM3 intervalometer", which (using various tricks and magic) achieves the following:

- Bulb trigger / exposure timer

- True RAW (bypassing star eater)

- Power supply

I have no idea if that chap still makes them, though!

[VigdisVZ]

Hi!

To hook your DSLR to a explorer focuser you need a T-ring for Nikon, everything else should be supplied with the focuser on the scope (we're talking the 200PDS right?). I made a few pictures last season to show how this works: http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/171765-direct-slr-camera-connection/#entry1753560 Hope it might give you an idea. You can check my gallery for some unguided shots with Nikon thru my 150PDS on a NEQ6.

Can't wait to see your first results!

[ktdelain]

Wow folks, thanks again for all the replies - the add on gadgets are intriguing and will definitely have a looksee - my Dad, the photographer, is getting quite excited about trying some things out, and he loves his gadgets, so I can see some "hey dad, you'd really like this gadget for you're birthday/Christmas for your camera, honest..." conversations coming on!

Actually that might work on my brother, another photographer/artisty type, - I went to see him in London on tuesday and he was telling me that he'd been playing about with long exposures to get some London Star trails - so I reckon I could talk him into getting some extras!

[ktdelain]

Hi!

To hook your DSLR to a explorer focuser you need a T-ring for Nikon, everything else should be supplied with the focuser on the scope (we're talking the 200PDS right?). I made a few pictures last season to show how this works: http://stargazerslou...n/#entry1753560 Hope it might give you an idea. You can check my gallery for some unguided shots with Nikon thru my 150PDS on a NEQ6.

Can't wait to see your first results!

Yeah - 200PDS - It's currently half in/half out of boxes, scattered around my living room, while I figure out how to put it all together! So those pictures are fab and really helpful, now I have the scope here, it's all starting to make sense! Sat/sun should be first chance at a test run set up - I got a t-ring too, so we're gonna have a go at hooking it all up! (and taking it apart, and hooking it up again!)

I'm off to the New Forest a week today with my Dad, so with a bit of luck (next sat is looking clear) we might get a chance to take a few shots! Thankfully we have electric, and I can take my lappy with me, so although the internet is a bit ropey, I will be saving all this helpful intel to take with me!!

Thanks everyone, and thanks for the shots too, its getting us all motivated like!

[JamesF]

If you want to play with star trails then www.startrails.de is worth a look.

James