1100d - to mod or not to mod?

[PeteC]

Just got a s/h Canon 1100d for dedicated astro use, keeping the old 450d for daylight use. I'm thinking of getting it modified for better red sensitivity to emission nebulae. However, I also like taking nightscapes with foreground objects - mountains, buildings etc. Just wondering if getting the mod done will completely mess up the colour rendition of these foreground objects? I won't be using it in daylight, just twilight and darker. If anyone has used a modded camera for this sort of shot it would be great if you could post an example.

Thanks

Pete

[drmillrace]

Hello Pete,

i've just had my 1100d modded but haven't had a chance for any night pics yet. I will be happy to take some and send you some examples if you want. However I would think that just using a custom white balance would address any colour cast. Basically you take a picture of a flat white non shadowed surface and set the camera to custom balance. There are instructions here.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2258690_set-custom-white-balance-canon.html

I did this for daylight shots with a modded 550d I had previously and it worked fine.

Alternatively you can correct the balance in software on your computer.

Another issue to consider if modding the camera is AF can be a problem but if you are taking night shots you'll be using MF anyway.

[PeteC]

Thanks drmillrace, I hadn't thought about custom white balance. The camera will be on its way to Astronomiser tomorrow!

Cheers

Pete

[kirkster501]

You only really need to have it modded if you are into nebulae. If GC's, galaxies etc are your bag (like me) then modding shows only marginal benefit. But for nebulae modding gives a massive benefit. Why not mod the 450 instead?

[PeteC]

You only really need to have it modded if you are into nebulae. If GC's, galaxies etc are your bag (like me) then modding shows only marginal benefit. But for nebulae modding gives a massive benefit. Why not mod the 450 instead?

I like trying to do widefield nightscapes. e.g I want to try to catch some nebulosity in Orion rising over a mountain. These types of shots are always a compromise between stars trailing and foreground blurring. The Polarie does half sidereal rate so can split the difference, but I figured the higher ISO capability of the 1100d vs the 450d would give me a bit more flexibility when needed in keeping the exposure time down, albeit at the expense of more noise.

[Gina]

The 1100D makes a better astro camera.

[Coco]

This is an image I did about 4 years ago with my un moddified 40D & 300mm f/4 lens on and astrotrac.. ( oh how i miss those simple days )

I put Noels stars on it since then..

So unmodified is perfectly good enough for astro imaging... fast optics are critical though..

Won POW

[Gina]

And so you should have - nice image

[PeteC]

This is an image I did about 4 years ago with my un moddified 40D & 300mm f/4 lens on and astrotrac.. ( oh how i miss those simple days )

I put Noels stars on it since then..

So unmodified is perfectly good enough for astro imaging... fast optics are critical though..

Won POW

Fabulous image Guy. What ISO, exposure time, no. of subs, and anything special to bring out the red? I'm currently on holiday on the shore of Lake Huron, Canada in a dark sky park, so anything you reveal may be put into practice immediately

[Coco]

Hi.. iso 800, 300 seconds at f/4 , bias only no flats or darks.. stacked in deepsky stacker tweeked in photoshop

The secret to dslr is lots and lots of subs.. and fast optics. ..

I would certainly use darks and flats too now.... make a star layer if your going deep because you will burn out the colour... on long subs..

[perfrej]

I agree somewhat wiht you Guy. Lots of subs for DSLR and NEVER scale the darks (read Craig Stark's article about Canon's hidden noise reduction). I do, however, think that there is a lot to gain by just getting a little lower down towards IR. I have a 1000D that I modded myself before it even shot a single frame (I use Nikon D3s for normal photography). My friend has borrowed right now and he shoots normal pictures with custom white balance without issues. focusing is an issue, though...

If you are on the Canon track for normal use, you will eventually want to step up to a better camera, and at that time you have your 1100D as a dedicated astro camera and can still use all your Canon lenses with the newer camera.

I'd tear the filters out in a jiffy

Oh, don't be tempted to use your camera for astro at any ISO setting but 400 and 800, with 800 being the sweet spot for a 1000D

/p

[Coco]

I agree somewhat wiht you Guy. Lots of subs for DSLR and NEVER scale the darks (read Craig Stark's article about Canon's hidden noise reduction). I do, however, think that there is a lot to gain by just getting a little lower down towards IR. I have a 1000D that I modded myself before it even shot a single frame (I use Nikon D3s for normal photography). My friend has borrowed right now and he shoots normal pictures with custom white balance without issues. focusing is an issue, though...

If you are on the Canon track for normal use, you will eventually want to step up to a better camera, and at that time you have your 1100D as a dedicated astro camera and can still use all your Canon lenses with the newer camera.

I'd tear the filters out in a jiffy

Oh, don't be tempted to use your camera for astro at any ISO setting but 400 and 800, with 800 being the sweet spot for a 1000D

/p

Have you tried your D3s on the stars Per? by all accounts the give a good account of themselves?