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Drift alignment and collimation questions???


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Hi all: :confused:

Went to collimate my sct the other night....seems like a lot of back and forth to it. I wonder if Sharpcap, using the reticle screen would help collimation and drift alignment by being able to view what's happening on the laptop as I tweak the collimation screws etc.

Any suggestions on this would be appreciated.

Cheers

Roger

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I've used this method of drift alignment successfully , much easier than squinting at a cross-hair for ages . . . http://www.cloudynights.com/item.php?item_id=2838

As to the collimation side , I can't see why it won't work , the only niggle might be keeping the target star centred during the procedure , could become a little tiresome in the dark.

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Hi Roger,

I recently collimated my C8 using exactly the method you describe after fitting some 'Bob's Knobs'. It worked a dream! There was no need to move from one end of the scope to the other, or to reach right over the scope to reach the adjustment screws whilst looking into the eyepiece. How people do it that way using a screwdriver is beyond me! I just stood at the corrector plate end and adjusted the knob required. You can place a finger over the corrector plate and move it around the tube until its shadow falls exactly where the image is out of alignment. Then just adjust the screw/s nearest to where your finger is.

Good luck. It really does make so much difference when your scope is correctly collimated.

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Thank you all for your excellent advice! I have my collimation fairly close...except for the concentric circles being broken at one spot...looks like an inverted 'v' radiating out fgrom innermost ring.

Cheers

Roger

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I had exactly that pattern the first time I star-tested my brand new Mak180Pro , it frightened the life out of me . . .

Turns out it's a thermal current off the internal baffle , it will go away when the scope reaches equilibrium . . . :laugh:

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