New focuser for my ED80 refractor

[kirkster501]

I want to upgrade the stock focuser on my SW ED80 for imaging. My ED80 is for keeps, it's a great scope and I love it. I reckon I could spend another £2000 for a better scope to get me 10% better quality........... The ED80 punches far above its modest cost IMO.

So a Baader (like Gina has done) or a Moonlite or even a Feathertouch? Gee, the focuser would be more than the scope!

Appreciate your thoughts please!

Rgds, Steve

[Steve Ward]

The Skywatcher replacements are very good focusers , never quite worked out why they're not fitted as standard ( profit obviously )

http://www.opticalvi...cher_refractors

I've just got the SCT version to go on the Mak180 , it's a beauty.

[Jessun]

I put a JMI EV-1rM on my ED80, and whilst the actual focuser is very good - up there in Moonlite/Feathertouch territory - the motor assembly is remarkably shoddy, and close to useless.

I did some research on focusers, to find a replacement for my RC monorail, and ended up with a 2.5"Moonlite. For me it was the modular approach that did it. All you need is to change flange for a wide range of scopes, so it's a future proof move in that sense. I didn't get the same impression with the Feathertouch regarding the benefit of a modular build. They seemed more specific - but I may well be wrong here.

/Jesper

[ollypenrice]

I've used the Baader Steeltrack and the Feathertouch. The FT is the best focuser I've ever used. Control is fine, the engineering is pure class, the lock screw is never needed. However, on Yves' ODK we have a Steeltrack carrying a heavy full frame CCD, 2 inch electric filterwheel and Off Axis Guider. It's motorized with a simple SW motor focus kit. Given my well known dislike of Crayfords it comes to something that I'm prepared to admit that the Steeltrack works very well. The price is less disproportionate, perhaps.

I think you are right about the ED80. It is very hard to beat. Control of the blue is not totally tight but it is a ridiculously good performer and the optics do deserve a good focuser. You do need to get the focuser in orthogonally, though, and the push-in focuser is not a good idea. Once fettled it should be fine, though. (Sara had a saga with her focuser upgrade on the 120 a while back.)

Olly

[swag72]

I had a Moonlite on my 120ED (Thanks for reminding me Olly!!!) and while it looked the business, I don't think that it was necessarily as good as it looked. After a period of time, it did start to slip a little and the fine focus was no where near as nice as the standard R&P I have on my current scope.

I did have problems with orthogality, and the 3 screws that hold the focuser in are really quite a woeful, cheap and awful design (In my opinion) - So would I upgrade the focuser? Yes, if I was going to keep the scope. Would I keep the scope? No way!!! But I'd not get a Moonilte.

Just my opinion, based on my experience. There are many who enjoy their ED80's as well as many who like their Moonlites

[George]

I have both the Moonlite & the Baader Steeltrack focusers, the Moonlite is on my newt and the Baader is on my ED80. Both are excellent performers but my own impression is the Baader feels that much more refined but probably in reality there's nothing between the 2 except the price.

ED80 is a brilliant scope that is sadly let down by an inadequate cheap focuser, again manufacturers should give people the option of buying with or without a focuser instead of make doing with a cheapie.

[FLO]

The three screw method of attaching a focuser to an ED80 (and the other telescopes in the same family) is determined by Skywatcher/Synta and applies regardless of which brand of focuser you choose.

For precise alignment you will need a laser collimator and some paper or acetate over the objective with a clearly marked centre. Put the laser in the focuser then switch it on, the spot should exit the objective at it's centre and illuminate the centre-mark on the paper/acetate. If it doesn't, slightly loosen the focuser's three fixing screws then maneuver it until it does. Then retighten the three screws. Easy

Probably a good idea to adjust your focuser's tension first to minimise the possibility of the camera's weight pulling the drawtube off-axis.

More expensive telescopes usually have a CNC machined body and a precision thread. The focuser then simply screws onto the thread and is precisely centred without need for adjustment. At least that is the theory...

HTH,

Steve

[kirkster501]

Think I am going to get the Baader from FLO next month.