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Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.


RAC

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Hi Gina,

I remembered you tried fine wire without success, how about a set of feeler gauges?

You might then be able to apply extra heat to the feeler gauge directly as you poke it under the sensor cover without adding extra heat stress directly to the detector.

William.

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Put some adhesive tape over the cover glass to hold any possible loose bits and while lifting the edge of the tape, worked gradually around the bond edge with the tip of the craft knife. I could see varing diffraction patterns as I went round then after going round several times the glass cracked and half of it was free. So with tape and free part of glass still in position, I continued and eventually the other half came off and tape plus the glass could be lifted off.

The sensor is still working :)SUCCESS the glass is off and the sensor still works :) :) I'm taking a rest before tackling the CFA :D

Edited by Gina
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Hi Gina,

I remembered you tried fine wire without success, how about a set of feeler gauges?

You might then be able to apply extra heat to the feeler gauge directly as you poke it under the sensor cover without adding extra heat stress directly to the detector.

William.

Problem solved :) But thank you for your suggestion :)
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Now all prepared for CFA removal :D Here we see a filter frame without any filters, screwed in place onto the sensor assembly, to shield all those ultra fragile fine gold wires.

post-13131-0-26522000-1378655762_thumb.j

Edited by Gina
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Started CFA removal on my 1100D sensor. Sensor still working :) Not doing any more tonight - not pushing it :D

Here are some images captured on my netbook by EOS Utility. 0.1s at ISO 100 and somewher around f4. The first pic was taken looking out of the lounge window with the lights on hence the reflections :D Then we have flats taken with a tissue over the lens. As taken, then stretched and finally cropped to the cleared area.

post-13131-0-14705100-1378668554_thumb.j post-13131-0-86871800-1378668555_thumb.j post-13131-0-93965100-1378668559_thumb.j post-13131-0-65055100-1378668562_thumb.j

Edited by Gina
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How are you tackling the CFA this time Gina? Scraping/chemical/AJAX?

Looking good though. Following this post with great interest as definitely my next project!

Good luck as I think we all know you will do it.

Cheers

Jamie

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How are you tackling the CFA this time Gina? Scraping/chemical/AJAX?

Ajax just to break the surface then paint scratch remover. Currently on a cotton bud but I'll swap to the sensor swab and cloth a bit later when I want a better defined tool.
Looking good though. Following this post with great interest as definitely my next project!

Good luck as I think we all know you will do it.

Cheers

Jamie

Thank you Jamie :) I'll do my best :D
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Hello all,

I made one more pic of my kitty cat just to show the power of debayer on the 450D :)

CAT_2

I have a very small amount of data (7x7 min. @ 800 ISO) on the Veil, latter I'll process this one and see what's there ;)

Gina, you're getting there, keep on it :)

One question Gina, what kind of polishinmg paste do you use for finishing? I might have a go on one of the sensors to make it perfectly clean.

Cheers,

Luís

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Hello all,

I made one more pic of my kitty cat just to show the power of debayer on the 450D :)

http://www.flickr.co...in/photostream/

Great pic Luis :) Now that's really "close up and personal" :D Fine detail :)

I have a very small amount of data (7x7 min. @ 800 ISO) on the Veil, latter I'll process this one and see what's there ;)

Sounds good :)
Gina, you're getting there, keep on it :)
Thank you Luis :)
One question Gina, what kind of polishinmg paste do you use for finishing? I might have a go on one of the sensors to make it perfectly clean.
The fine abrasive I'm using is Meguiar's ScratchX 2.0

- http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0006ZXUAG/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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More CFA removed :) Not very well cleaned up :D

  1. View south out of window 1/4000s ISO100
  2. Flat as taken
  3. Flat stretched histogram
  4. Ditto, cropped
  5. Curves applied to flat

post-13131-0-67890800-1378726101_thumb.j post-13131-0-58465800-1378726103_thumb.j post-13131-0-36050600-1378726115_thumb.j post-13131-0-00166300-1378726112_thumb.j post-13131-0-98118700-1378726422_thumb.p

Edited by Gina
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hi Gina

are you able to set a white screen as the custom white balance and take an image that should give a true greyscale.

I dont get how the area thats intact shows up as red with no other colour.

I'm finally starting the 600d now with the hot air desoldering station.

hope this one goes well.

these sensors are expensive and rare.

Alistair

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I'll have a think about CWB.

These are saved as JPEG so I imagine this is the in camera processing. I'll sort out DCRaw shortly - I have the CR2 files.

Good luck with the 600D :)

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I used the cut down sensor swab for the last go at it but now I think I need something narrower so I'll be looking at making a better CFA removal tool. The filter frame provides some protection for the fine wires but there is a gap underneath where the cover glass was and the wires were below that. There is also a particularly delicate and tiny bit of circuitry in the middle of one end that must be avoided.

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did the glass turn white when heating?

i'm trying hot air at 300c at one spot from 3 to 10 secs, no white or discoloration.

i'm working on a dead sensor before I try the live one.

can't remember what flolic and jtw said about the heat method.

or do you heat 3 secs per spot, go around completely, then try with a knife?

Alistair

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did the glass turn white when heating?

No not with the 1100D sensor. A slightly whitish bit at the ends of where the bond is broken but otherwise just a diffraction pattern (rainbow colours) when viewed at certain angles due to the separation being just a few wavelengths of light.
i'm trying hot air at 300c at one spot from 3 to 10 secs, no white or discoloration.
Try moving it slowly along. Your air may not be hot enough - mine burns paper.
i'm working on a dead sensor before I try the live one.
Good idea :)
can't remember what flolic and jtw said about the heat method.

or do you heat 3 secs per spot, go around completely, then try with a knife?

Alistair

I go very slowly on the glass above the bond taking around 5 seconds to cover half the length. On the 1100D a lighter curved line shows and moves along with the hot air - this is the edge of the broken bond.
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