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Canon 1000D ( LP-E5 ) Battery eliminator (Part deux!)

Bizibilder

By Bizibilder
in DIY Astronomer

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Bizibilder

Bizibilder

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I want to make my own battery eliminator for my 1000D, I can get hold of a battery case easily enough but I'm not quite sure of the wiring. The battery has three contacts + - and a third central one - what does this do?

My mains adapter for the camera has a simple plug with +- only as far as I can tell (without destroying it!) that plugs into its own dummy battery. Can I simply cut up a cheapo battery and connect the +- wires to the appropriate pins?

Hope I'm making sense!

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Gina

Gina

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Connect the middle pin to -ve. This is used with a battery to check how much power is left. The battery indicator in software shows it's mains powered when this pin is earthed. I recommend adding a capacitor across the supply to stop interference. The Canon battery eliminator has a pair of electrolytics between + and - and a few surface mount components that I believe to be small capacitors across the supply and inductors in series. These will ne noise suppressors.

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Bizibilder

Bizibilder

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Sorry Gina I'm a total electronics numpty - I'm sure your explanation is clear but I don't understand!

What I want to do is wire up to an "empty" battery case - I should be able to do this with two wires from a 7.5v supply - one +ve and one -ve wire.

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Bizibilder

Bizibilder

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Yes - I have a mains supply which goes to the camera via a transformer and then a "fake" battery.

This just adds extra cables to my set-up so:

I am making a power supply box that will run from a 13.8v regulated supply for the mount etc - within that I will have a 7.5v outlet. I want to make my own lead and "fake" battery to get from the 7.5v outlet to the 1000D.

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Gina

Gina

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I'm running mine at 7.9v.

I respectfully suggest that anyone who doesn't like doing electronics gets a pukka Canon battery eliminator and connects through that. That's what I did because at that time I didn't have the info on the contacts. This is the one for the 1100D that I bought :- http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004MKNE4I/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

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Bizibilder

Bizibilder

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Thanks for that info Peter. Thanks Gina - I found a link for the 1000D coupler. The other approach would simply be to run a cable from my power outlet to the "fake battery" that I already have supplied with my mains adapter - the trouble is I would need a 3mm OD 1mm ID (I think) 90° connector and these seem unobtainable - unless someone knows better?

Sorry if I seem to be running this round in circles but there must be a simple solution somewhere!

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Gina

Gina

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I couldn't find any of those either and ended up breaking into the case and soldering on my own wires, then making a small hole in the case for them and gluing the case back together. But that's not much help to anyone without soldering skills or the ability to work out where to solder the wires, I'm afraid.

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tich

tich

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Sorry for hijacking the thread but I'm hoping to build something similar to power my 1000D, I've been watching the DIY dew heater controller using the LED light dimmers & I'm hoping to make a couple of extra power points one 9v to power the electric focuser & the other 7.5v to power the 1000D. With the help of Malc-C he made up a list of components that I will need. I already have a mains powered adapter for the 1000D & I want to remove the fake battery & fit it to the power unit I'm buliding. I would like to keep everything powered from 12 volts initially as I don't have an observatory & I don't like the idea of having a 240v extension lead laying across a damp lawn. If anyone has any ideas they could add then it would be appreciated.

Am I right in thinking that you connect the positive & negative as you would normaly then the -ve to negative too?

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malc-c

malc-c

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The only difference I've made is that the regulator is housed in a small project box and not within the battery casing. This reduces any chance of heat build caused by the regulator dropping the voltage from the supply voltage. I've not had any problems using a 7885 1.5amp linear regulator without the capacitors, but I am using a 13.8v regulated and smoothed supply as the power source

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Psychobilly

Psychobilly

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In the end i tweaked the voltage up a bit to 7.6v as when the temp dropped to -10c the camera woulx throw up a low battery warning when the shutter opened...

With the older batteries the extra "T" termial provided battery temperature feedback to the canon charger so that cells would only charge if they were inside the right temp range.. Newer battery types provide digital data ...

Peter...

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tich

tich

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Thanks Malcolm, I'm hoping the 240v battery adapter just has the 2 wires as I want to cut the cable & put a plug on each so I can use the 240v adapter or plug it to the power supply I will be building. (If that makes any sense :icon_scratch: )

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Bizibilder

Bizibilder

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The cheapo battery arrived today - So I decided to go for it!

The pictures tell the story - open the battery and find the two cells and a small circuit board inside. Dismantle and, after it finally dawned on me that the "clips" were de-solderable from the PC board, I was able to solder my +&- wires to a pair of clips (the third clip ran off under the bench and refused to come back out!!). A bit of hot glue to keep the wire in place and superglue to put the battery halves back together again. Then the big moment! It worked - the battery showing low charge as I had deliberately not charged it from new- I tried a few snapshots of the inside of the lens cap and all seems OK.

Thanks to all of your for your help so far - the next step is to attach the other end of the wire to an as yet unmade power supply box.

As it came:

post-4502-0-49020100-1349986778_thumb.jp

Cut into two:

post-4502-0-25949100-1349986786_thumb.jp

The circuit board - the "clips" are underneath the three big blobs of solder:

post-4502-0-26023200-1349986794_thumb.jp

The new internals:

post-4502-0-02740200-1349986803_thumb.jp

Proof! - It works!

post-4502-0-09166900-1349986813_thumb.jp

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