USB cable - Powered vs Active...? (and 12V DC?)

[AndyUK]

With some excellent one-to-one tuition, I've FINALLY moved over to EQMOD/CdC/Maxim . I should have done it over a year ago, but better late than never...

However, over the last few months, I've also noticed how much dew gathers on the laptop, which really can't be good for it (especially as it's my work machine!), and thinking ahead, I've also thought how nice it must be to just be able to look at the laptop screen inside the house (or car) without having to go outside in the freezing cold to check the laptop screen to see how the guiding's going / check the focus / framing etc etc...

I already have a spare 5m USB cable (which if poss I'd like to re-use), but I understand that long USB cables need a bit of a boost - My first thought was to find a 4 port powered USB hub, but then I got distracted by "Active" USB, and have no idea if they'd do the job (can anyone enlighten if one of these would work?).

However, if I DO need a powered USB hub, I'll need it to be powered from my leisure battery (ie via cigar socket) - I don't suppose anyone has a link to one, do they? I can find 4 port powered USB hubs for mains and also cigar socket connected power hubs with 2 USB sockets but not a 4 port cigar socket powered hub...

[Spikey]

I use a 10m active USB cable Andy and run it to an unpowered USB hub at the mount end. I've got the mount, both cameras and the filterwheel all running from it and very occassionally a gamepad. I get the odd problem with a device not being recognised, usually the QHY5 or it'll take the filterwheel out but a simple disconnect/reconnect usually sorts it.

I'm in the process (when I get round to it) of building an autofocuser and I'll also need to power the hub at this point for which I'll use a small transformer to take the 12v down to 5v.

[Sp@ce_d]

I've used this system for the last 18 months or so... works just as well with my Macs and Pc's I've tried it with. Had no issues whih is more than I can say for some powered hubs I've used in the past. I also run upto 5 metre "normall" usb cables out of the active hub too.

http://www.lindy.co.uk/usb-firewire/usb-active-extension-system/

[Tinker1947]

I have a couple of 10m active USB leads, there sourced from Amazon £7.99 each, they do work as well.......

http://www.amazon.co...49306483&sr=8-2

[AndyUK]

Thanks guys - That's a great help - I was thinking I needed powered, but it looks as though, at least for the moment, I just need an active cable and a 4 port hub (2 cameras and mount). Thanks also for the links

[swag72]

You want to view everything from inside? ............. From the comfort of your armchair? ............... You're getting soft in your old age!!!

[Psychobilly]

Acitve cables only really clean up the signals if you have "power hungry" devices at the remote end then a remote powered hub may still be needed...

There are plenty of 12-5V DC to DC convertors available that you can use to run the hubs - it's also worth checking out hubs for use in vehicles...

When it comes to main powered hubs its worth checking the current rating of the PSU that comes with them - some of the maplin hubs used to come with 1-1.5A supplies which is only enough for 3 full power ports so you might need to go for a PSU upgrade as well if you have a couple of power hungry devices. like Meade DSI's for example

I found going remote lost my "connection with the sky" so I have stopped doing it...

Peter...

[AndyUK]

Sara - Yep - Fire on, feet up... and attach the laptop HDMI port to the 50" plasma. Luxury... . All I need then is a cloud sensor with an alarm to wake me up if the weather's looking a bit dodgy.... (and If I had an obs, wouldn't it be great if that could also then control the roof...!)

Cheers Peter - I need to put a little more thought into this to check out power requirements - As I noted, I need USB connection to the mount, Lodestar and Atik, so it SHOULDN'T be that great, but better to be safe than sorry... I always prefer to go over the top to allow for future upgrade.

[Psychobilly]

If the cameras or devices have their own PSU's then you should be fine with just an active cable and remote hub... It's devices that take their power from the USB port that can have problems on the end of long cable runs which introduce voltage drops in the power connection on the USB cable - or even worse voltage instabilities if the load keeps changing...

I have run a DSLR in liveview mode on 35M of active cables 3x10m and 1x5m all connected together...

Peter...

[AndyUK]

Thanks again Peter - The only device requiring power will be the Lodestar, so power requirement would indeed be minimum... (35M - Hmmm - That would be about 4 times the length of my garden!)