Skyline 200 whats in the box and not

[mor aase]

A novice like me, is hard to find, I expected to see Encke Gap in great detail with a 5" scope )

Now, what do Buy, the 200 or 250 skyliner, the first cost 800 pounds here in Norway, the second one thousand.

On amazon at 315 vz 445 gbp, they shipment is 40 gbp to norway

In short, if I buy me a scope, I will get it from UK.

Thus, i need to 10000 % sure of what they will send me, and what I MUST buy of extras,

The google ssearch haave given me some insight - but I still dont fully understand what I will get.

Barlow tube, extra magnifying tube. Still much in the, help me, what should i get, if any??

Most imporrtant. Camera mount a simple but good one for my Fuji x10 and canon 60d

Thanks so much!

[umadog]

The Skyliners are Dobsonians, no? You won't be taking any photos with that. Regardless of whether or not the scope comes with a camera mount, the most you can realistically expect are lunar shots.

There's also no way that you'll be purchasing everything you need in one go. Over time you'll add more eyepieces, but to begin with you're best off using whatever comes with it. I'd suggest you start off with the scope, a Telrad, a Cheshire/sight-tube combination tool, and Turn Left at Orion.

Keep reading until you fully understand. Then order.

[jimmyjamjoejoe]

You'l get the scope, mount, finder, and 2 eyepieces (25mm and 10mm).

You'l need a collimation tool of some kind, other than that the box will contain everything you need to get started.

[mor aase]

Look at Harrisonstelescopes.co.uk

At their skywatcher skyliner 200p presentation page, they say;

"Direct SLR camera connection"

What do they mean then?

[Moonshane]

it's certainly possible to take some shots of the moon and maybe planets (usually with a web cam) via a dobsonian but as I mentioned on the other thread, I'd forget imaging at the moment unless this is the route you wish to follow. You'd need a smaller scope and a bigger more expensive mount if imaging (and probably a larger budget than you suggested). this would give less satisfactory results visually than the 200mm dob (in my opinion anyway).

in terms of other items to add to what you get in the box, I'd agree a Cheshire collimation tool would be good plus a red dot finder of some kind (I prefer Telrads but Rigel and Baader Skysurfer 3 are good too).

[Astrosurf]

You'll need a good solid equatorial go-to mount (like the Skywatcher EQ6 or even HEQ5 for the 200 - the one I use) to take any decent images as this tracks the object, and are expensive. I suppose if it's not go-to you could do planetary and lunar but I think that would be difficult as you would need to keep correcting in right ascention.

As has been said, you can do lunar shots and possibly planetary imaging with a dobsonian via a webcam but not eaasily. I've never used a dob so am not very knowledgeable. I believe you can use a wedge but I don't know how much that would help imaging. I'm sure someone will say.

It's a hard decision! Imaging can mean more expense if you want aperture to do observing too. If it's just imaging you want, some people just use small refractors with lovely results.

[TheThing]

You can easily mount a 200.on an EQ4. I used to have this set up for visual and webcaming.

TheThing

[brucen]

Look at Harrisonstelescopes.co.uk

At their skywatcher skyliner 200p presentation page, they say;

"Direct SLR camera connection"

What do they mean then?

Although it is physically possible to attach a camera to the scope ( if your camera has a T Ring attachment fitted) it is VERY difficult to take pictures with the scope on the manual Dobsonian mount as you have to move it manually. A quick shot of the moon is ok but everything else moves so quickly you need a tracking mount to keep it stationary in the viewfinder. Hope that makes sense! On the plus side it is a great scope, easy to set up and use and gives great views. I am sure you will be pleased if you get one but not if you are looking to take pictures. You will have to spend a lot more than you plan to do that I am afraid.

[Astrosurf]

You can easily mount a 200.on an EQ4. I used to have this set up for visual and webcaming.

TheThing

I'm still a newbie when it comes to equipment! My HEQ5 seems to be at the limit of its load with my 200P as the scope moves with the slightest wind and imaging is hard, but that might just be the scope's long focal length.

[Jeff Burnz]

I'm in a similar boat here in Sweden regarding the cost of equipment, so will buy from TS in Germany, they seem to have a good reputation, and the Skyliner 200p or GSO 200 for under 350€ ( the latter is what I am looking at for next year when I move out of my city apartment).

[Jeff Burnz]

http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/index.php/cat/c2_Dobsonian-Telescopes.html

Sorry, here's the link I meant to add, good luck!

[jimmyjamjoejoe]

The direct attachment means that the 1.25" adapter on the focuser unscrews to reveal a t-adapter. With relevant t-ring for your camera, you'l be able to mount it, though as others have said, it'l only be good for lunar shots, and shorter exposures.

[lestergibson]

You might need a 2.5mm (???) allen key for loosening the grub screws at the base of the 200p to allow you to collimate. I didn't get one with my recently arrived 200p.

[mor aase]

I am beginning to understand, just a little....

a) To just look at Cassini Gap and NGC 1999 -- I buy the Skyliner 200 PX with Pyrex --- at 379.- euro

To look and take som snapshots of Icecaps on Mars, moons of Saturn and Neptune -- I buy the Explorer 150 PL EQ (on a EQ3-2) -- at 377,- euro

A Cheshire laser collimator goes for 39 euro and starpointer red dot finder goes for 25 euro (do i really need it?)

Camera mount?

I am looking at an VISA payment of 430 euro --- that is what I originally had as maximum to use :-)

BTW, last night, walking the dog, nice moon, high polaris in north and flashing Arcturus in the west. Maybe trivial, but you folks should have seen the fantastic backdrop of Aurora Borealis!! Lightening up the heavens all the way from NNW to NNE!

[John]

Whatever you choose do remember that the views you get can't be guaranteed and are dependent on the seeing conditions, state of scope collimation and cooling, observer experience, time spent at the eyepiece etc, etc, etc.

I'm only saying that so you are not disappointed when / if you turn your new scope onto the objects you list above and, initially at least, don't see what you are expecting. Features such as the Cassini division, Martian pole caps etc don't just jump out at you in sharp detail even with comparatively large scopes. They can be glimpsed though with some experience and when conditions are favourable.

I'm not trying to put you off but just "managing expectation" a bit

Personally, my advice would be to get the largest aperture scope you can. Then some of your targets will be less "On the limit" of the scopes capability and a little easier to attain.

[mor aase]

Ok

I mentioned Pyrex.

Should i get the pyrex version.

In wintertime when heavens are really dark and clear it will be typically 250 K at my garden pool.

I guess my expensive parabolic gadget might get foggy brining it out to the Norwegian winter?

[John]

I don't think you have much choice. The 200P is not Pyrex but the 250PX is. There is no non-Pyrex 250 option or a Pyrex 200 one as far as I know. I believe the advantage of Pyrex is that it maintains it's figure (optical shape) a little better as it cools. Not a show stopping issue as far as most are concerned though. The 150P and 300P's are non-Pyrex I believe.