Direct SLR Camera Connection

[Lianachan]

Quick question, which I'm sure has probably been asked in several slightly different ways umpteen times before.

I have a telescope on the way, a Skywatcher 200P, which is described as having a "Direct SLR Camera Connection". I also have a Canon 1100D on the way. Do I need a Canon T piece to join them up, or does the "Direct SLR Camera Connection" negate that requirement?

Cheers!

[Merlin66]

You'll still need a T2 -EOS adaptor.

The T thread on the focuser....T2 adaptor to the camera body...

[Lianachan]

Thanks. I thought that was the case, but just wanted to be 100% sure.

[Trull]

...just make sure its wide enough to avoid vignetting

[A320Flyer]

I would consider buying the maxDSLR connector:

Astro Engineering Max DSLR 2 inch camera adaptor (for Canon, Nikon & Pentax)

It takes a standard 2"" LP filter (or any 2" filter) and fits directly into the 2" drawtube. Being a 2" connector it does not suffer from nearly the same vignetting as the 1.25" and has the added benefit of giving some extra inwards travel on the focus.

[Trull]

Ah that's the one I got - works a treat on my Vixen ED103. Don't think of getting anything else if you are on a APSC sensor or larger.

[Stephen]

I would highly not recommend buying the above adaptor until you have had a chance to test the t-ring connection out first.

Usually you can't focus a DSLR on a 200P as standard (can't rack the focuser in enough.)

Using the above adaptor will mean your camera is 1.5 to 2 inches further away from the focal point making a difficult task even harder.

[Trull]

I now see what kheldar means - the scope itself is not really setup for anything other than casual snapping in any event, so don't worry about vignetting - unless you fancied shifting the primary mirror along the optical axis. Which is easy enough to do - but do this after you've tried the existing adaptor as suggested by Merlin66. Here's a cunning plan - simply hold your camera up and see if you can get focus before buying anything!

[Stephen]

Here's a cunning plan - simply hold your camera up and see if you can get focus before buying anything!

Good call

[Black Knight]

I would highly not recommend buying the above adaptor until you have had a chance to test the t-ring connection out first.

Usually you can't focus a DSLR on a 200P as standard (can't rack the focuser in enough.)

Using the above adaptor will mean your camera is 1.5 to 2 inches further away from the focal point making a difficult task even harder.

Definitely. There is not enough inward movement of the focuser unless you use the direct camera connection. You just need a T-ring for your DSLR.

NB: If you plan to buy a SW coma corrector, you'll need Skywatchers own M48 adapter.

[Muphrid]

I would highly not recommend buying the above adaptor until you have had a chance to test the t-ring connection out first.

Usually you can't focus a DSLR on a 200P as standard (can't rack the focuser in enough.)

Can't agree with that - I have no problems attaching my dSLR to my wife's Skywatcher 200P via a standard T2 mount. Image taken with this setup here:

Canon 5D

[Stephen]

Can't agree with that - I have no problems attaching my dSLR to my wife's Skywatcher 200P via a standard T2 mount. Image taken with this setup here:

Canon 5D

I didn't explain myself too well The t-mount is the only way it's going to work (doesn't always,) I was trying to push the OP away from the 2" adaptor

[Muphrid]

I connected the dSLR via a T2 mount onto the 2" push-fit adapter that came with the scope.

[Stephen]

I connected the dSLR via a T2 mount onto the 2" push-fit adapter that came with the scope.

Can you post a picture of your camera connected? What you describe isn't able to achieve focus for most people (though obviously is for your configuration.)

[A320Flyer]

I would highly not recommend buying the above adaptor until you have had a chance to test the t-ring connection out first.

Usually you can't focus a DSLR on a 200P as standard (can't rack the focuser in enough.)

Using the above adaptor will mean your camera is 1.5 to 2 inches further away from the focal point making a difficult task even harder.

I have both the direct dslr connection and the maxdslr connector. To use the maxdslr connector, you have to remove the direct dslr attachment and fit the maxdslr directly on to the focus tube. In my case this gets me about 6mm extra inwards focus travel.

Mine is a 150SW but I see no reason why this would not be the same for a 200SW.

Bill

[Stephen]

I have both the direct dslr connection and the maxdslr connector. To use the maxdslr connector, you have to remove the direct dslr attachment and fit the maxdslr directly on to the focus tube. In my case this gets me about 6mm extra inwards focus travel.

Mine is a 150SW but I see no reason why this would not be the same for a 200SW.

Bill

Yes, this is a feature of the newer telescopes (as I found out 10 minutes ago lol) that you can insert 2" stuff directly into the focuser.

With older stuff (didn't read properly) you needed to use a large 2" EP adaptor as it functions as a diameter reducer as well.

[Black Knight]

Yes, this is a feature of the newer telescopes (as I found out 10 minutes ago lol) that you can insert 2" stuff directly into the focuser.

With older stuff (didn't read properly) you needed to use a large 2" EP adaptor as it functions as a diameter reducer as well.

Yeah, I didn't know that either - and my 200P was only a year old!

[yesyes]

I would recommend getting one of these slim EOS T-rings. Like the 3rd item from the bottom on this page:

Accessories @ Modern Astronomy

Its optical length is only 1mm compared to the 11mm-ish of the standard T-rings. That brings the camera 10mm closer in.

[Merlin66]

A word of caution... on those very narrow T/ EOS adaptors it is possible for the back of the adaptor plate to touch the lens contacts and cause a camera Error message- the solution is to place a piece of insulating tape on in bottom inside surface of the adaptor.

[Lianachan]

Thanks for the advice everybody. My 1100D and SW200P have now arrived, although they've not been unboxed yet, and I've ordered T/EOS adapter.

If I was wanting to try my hand at afocal, using either my scope eypieces or camera lenses - mainly for increased magnification for planetary photos - what kind of adapter(s) would I need for that?

[Merlin66]

You may be better off considering using a barlow (or a camera x2 extender) to increase you effective focal length. Usually easier and gives a better outcome.

[Stephen]

Or consider a webcam for planetary work?

[Lianachan]

I wasn't sure if the 2x barlow I have would make a significant amount of improvement, but I'll definitely be trying it once I get it all up and running. I have some unused webcams kicking about, too, and I'm looking forward to building something out of one of them.

[Uhwaz]

You may be better off considering using a barlow (or a camera x2 extender) to increase you effective focal length. Usually easier and gives a better outcome.

Barlow and DSLR ? I have been told its bad idea as it increases time u need for exposures 2x barlow = 4x more exposure time

I have Canon 30D on 200P Skywatcher and I use TS Adapter auf 2' mit Ringklemmung für Skywatcher Newtons + Baader Planetarium MPCC coma Korrektor 2 " for all Newton reflectors

+ T-Ring

still have about 15mm inward focus left

to that 2'' adaptor i got one with 2 screws but couldnt find link to it but pretty much its identical.

Comma corrector is threaded for 2" filters btw

so in short i have draw tube <-2" adaptor <- comma corrector <- T-ring <- DSLR

I can post picture once I am home if you interested.

Marian

[Merlin66]

The question I was trying to answer was how to get " increased magnification for planetary photos" obviously increasing the focal length gives fainter images....