bosun21

How old is your telescope and handset? The recent updates are only doable from version V3 forward.

It's an F12 with a FL of 1800mm.

Good luck @Rusted and I hope you find a resolution to this.

What a once in a lifetime sight 👀.

Once the WiFi dongle is plugged into the scope the hand controller is completely out of the picture and not used. The app takes the place of the hand controller. The dongle actually plugs into the HC receptacle on the scope.

I have never needed to look at collimating the Hotech as it arrived perfectly aligned and still remains so years later. I treat it like a precision instrument and never handle it roughly so losing collimation isn’t a worry. Using it itself is very straightforward and intuitive.

Are there any calculators available to calculate the best pixel size?

I have used a 2” Hotech laser for my reflector telescopes ranging from 6”-12”. It arrived perfectly collimated and is a very reliable piece of kit. I can collimate my scope then remove and reinsert the laser and it’s still bang on. I set my secondary initially with a concenter and cheshire and everything thereafter I use the laser. It’s invaluable in the dark.

I intend to take a few images of the planets with my SW 150 Maksutov f12. I intend to use a 2x ES tele extender and ADC. Which planetary camera would be the best for this application? The pixel size and the optimum fps being the two variables that spring to mind. Thanks.

On the nights of heavy dew I just used a standard dew shield and if really bad I used heated bands on my eyepiece and finder. You can make a dew shield from a yoga mat or the like.

I reckon that when you changed over to the Crayford focuser and you said you had to turn the focuser for ages to allow focus with the Crayford you have slightly disturbed the primary mirror. Then when you reversed the procedure to return to the Meade focuser the mirror didn’t settle in its original position. I think all you need to do is to re collimate the scope properly on a bright star.

Apart from throwing a sheet over it that is why would you want to? The metal tube will dew over every time the dew point is reached. I have only ever used a standard dew shield to give my secondary some protection on nights of heavy dew. If you are concerned about the primary mirror you can place a shower cap around the primary cell. Just let the scope dry off properly when you are done observing for which I point the tube slightly downward and caps (shower cap) off.

A warm welcome to SGL 👋.

There’s 4 in stock at FLO 👍.

As all you changed was the focuser to a low profile model it’s obviously due to the fact that the camera is now closer to the secondary mirror slightly changing the perspective.

You just beat me to the draw with this Stu. It looks great and in very good condition.

DPD and the postie today with the last of my bits and pieces. An electric focuser complete kit from Vasco in Portugal, a ZWO ADC and a Baader 2” to 1.25” clicklock. The electric focuser makes such a difference focusing accurately at high magnification on a Maksutov.

Duplicate post.

I have found that by using a lens tool I just turn it until it makes contact then a SLIGHT turn just to nip it up. I've never experienced any pinched optics or anything else.

Nothing to go wrong then?

None of my eyepieces have a field stop that large so I don’t get any vignetting and I have found that the 1/12th wave mirror gives me a slight increase in clarity over the other diagonals i have owned. I also like the fact that the sides can be removed for easy cleaning of the mirror. One mans food is another mans poison I suppose.

Pity, those skies would be fantastic!

Excellent work 👍.

That's one large field stop!

I would recommend that you buy a secondhand lens for your camera which would allow you to take short exposures and stack them. This would also allow you to learn about astrophotography and the workload involved in creating images of the night sky.