johngm

But thats a spot on Idea of yours though regarding the 36mm filters. I'll message FLO tomorrow and see if they'll exchange the filters (obviously me paying the difference) and order a couple of carousels. They do have them in Stock.. Thanks again for the suggestion pal, cracking idea 👍 John

I also meant to say SYed, i wanted the integrated OAG, because i will be using it with my RC8 scope. I tested it today with my ED80 and ASI290mm mini on a distant aerial , at its prety much parfocal. Makes life so much easier. John

Just looking on the FLO site now, and that might be an option to think about. I don't know if i could stretch to the extra £250 for the Midi wheel, however, at £39 a pop, could buy 2 X 5 pos 36mm wheels and have one for NB and one for BB. Just keep the one i'm not using in a sealed air tight zip bag. I have to ask though, surly this is a poor design if it cant except 1.25" screw filters the correct way around, and that is what it is marketed as John

Agreed regarding the filters, but this SX filter wheel doesn't appear to accommodate unmounted filters. There is no recess to sit the filter on, or screw holes to hold the filters in place. John

Thats no moon 😂😂

Hi Everyone, First, you are all welcome to blame me for the turn in the weather, because i have taken delivery from FLO of a Starlight Xpress trius Pro 694 mono camera + SX Mini filter with integrated OAG. Along with these, i purchased a 1.25" Baader LRGB CCD filter set . Now the problem is, when i screw in the filters, the knurled part of the Baader filter clashes with the Prism of the OAG. (Image 1). The only way i could get around this, was to screw the filters in from underneath ( camera side image 2). The operation of the filter wheel is fine in this configuration, but, aren't these Baader Filters non reflective on the camera/thread side ? although, i must admit, i couldn't see any difference with my eyes. If they are inverted, the only way around i can see is unscrewing the collars that hold the glass in place and flipping them, but i worry i might scratch them. Any ideas ? especially would be interesting to here from other SX owners.. Anyway, these are the images i have taken of the issue.

Yes, i'll second that. Great image, but careful about clipping the data. As regards acquiring more data, more is good 👍 John

Obviously, i was only working with a JPEG image. Just did a curve adjustment to the Highlights of the Red channel in PS, and increased Saturation and contrast. John

Is this any better ?

I am also in the process of purchasing the quark, but why the 2" 35nm filter and not the 1.25", when the imaging/viewing area has thread for a 1.25" filter ? maybe i'm missing something.

I've also noticed that Youtube Vlogers who have large followings are also given premium examples for reviews. Chucks Astrophotography is a prime example, although i will admit i like his channel. John

Thanks for the feedback Dave. So, it sounds like they haven't been listening to there customers concerns, and have not improved there quality control. I do understand your point also, about variation, and expectations, but you would think a company like Daystar would have a set minimum standard, and the optics fully checked before dispatch. Regards John

Cheers David, if you can dig out those links, that would be appreciated. John

Hi All, I am considering purchasing a Daystar Quark Chromosphere, but having researched the forums, including SGL, it seems though there are or were a lot of quality issues. Unfortunately, most of these reviews/posts seem to be from around 2015 - 2016. I would like to here from people who have purchased one in the last couple of years and find out if there Quality control has improved, or is it still a lottery. Thanks in advance John

Thanks again Zak John

Ha 35nm ? are you refering to the 3.5nm ? cannot see a 35nm. Do you have a link please Cheers

Thanks for the Advice Zak 👍 John

Hi All, I am considering purchasing a Daystar quark Chromosphere eyepiece to use in conjunction with my altair 60EDF and Skywatcher ED80 scopes. Along with this, i will get an astronomik L1 UV/IR Blocking filter. My query is, do i still need to use the field flatteners when solar viewing / imaging ? Thanks in advance John

You are correct Vlaiv, i just checked, i must have been getting confused with one of the other cameras i was looking at 👍 John

Hi Francis, I'm a bit late to this party, but i'm reviewing dedicated astro cams myself, as i intend purchasing one in the not to distant future. Still haven't decided yet. OSC, Mono, CCD, or CMOS. I see in your post, you are using a Baader UV/IR cut filter ?. I am quite puzzled by this, because reading up on it, it has a built in UV/IR cut filter. Can you shed some light on your train of thought ? Regards John

Hi Fellow stargazers. Tonight, i wanted to try a shot a star trails, which is something i have never attempted. I am after advice. I live in a Bortle 5 area. I have done some reading up on the subject, and i will be shooting around 30s images, with a couple of second pause between each images. I will be using my Canon 100D @ISO 800. Would you recommend i use my Astronomik LP clip filter as my exposures will be limited ot 30s ? What would be the best lens for me to use from the following; Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 Canon 40mm f2.8 prime lens or my 18-55mm kit lens Guidance much appreciated. John

Stay safe all 👍 John

I know its a Meade, but the principle will be the same John

This may help you on your way. John

+1 for Alan's comments. Drop the Aperture down a couple of stops, especially when using zoom lenses. John