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About Robert72

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    Star Forming

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  1. It is 0.25mm sheet - 10mm box at the ends and centre - 0.25mm sheet
  2. Thanks for all your input so far. The main reason for the dual vane design, is that it is so easy to design and build, although I had no idea they were so poorly regarded within the astronomy community. Back to the drawing board!
  3. Yes basically like that. Funnily I had already looked at this page, but due to the odd angle that the holders are in at the top left picture, I had assumed they were 3 screw. I feel it would be too much of a challenge for me to construct a 3 screw system due to the vane positions, as the site says, "With a four screw adjustment, each screw is centered between the spider vanes, making collimation adjustments a snap".
  4. I don't have a sketch, but imagine two plates being pushed together by a spring. And then 4 screws equidistantly spaced on one of them to push them apart. If the screws protrude a few mm, then there is angle adjustment available in both planes.
  5. Agreed. How about a 4 screw arrangement then where the 2 planes have distinct control? It may be a better way to de-couple tilt and rotation (to an extent).
  6. An interesting read. Thanks wimvb.
  7. After the height and rotation are set, then surely tilt is the only thing that requires adjustment? Adjusting rotation and tilt simultaneously with a 2/3 adjustment mechanism seems kind of un-intuitive. I was fairly convinced of this after reading this site (from which i stole the tilt mechanism). http://conradhoffman.com/secondary.htm
  8. Some of you may have seen my carbon fiber tube project, and I have decided to compliment this with a carbon spider. I did not intend to build a spider initially, however having sized up the spider i got with the mirror set, i found that it is slightly too short. Obviously I could purchase a spider, but a homebrew carbon version is in keeping with the DIY theme, and gives me a chance to try out something new. I was hoping to run the design past you fellows for a sanity check. This is not the most complex thing in the world, however there may be something i have missed as i have never
  9. https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/vm100-black-methyl-methacrylate-adhesive
  10. Good question. When I said the finish is superb, it is mostly, but there are several flaws, uneven cloth, bubbles etc. Also the tube is a touch small for my tube rings, a slight blunder on my part. And the ends where you can see the foam core are a bit rough in my eyes. Having said that all these things do give it character, along with the hybrid cloth arrangement. However, I am quite keen on skinning as it will solve a lot of these slight deficiencies. I know, the whole point of making a mould is such that I shouldn't have to do this, but it is what it is. I will write a post at some point ab
  11. Modified the moulding frame into a tube chop saw. This gives a nice square cut:
  12. Well, here it is, after allowing the part to stabilise for a couple of weeks the lid is finally off. The surface finish is superb, you can see that I have used a mix of standard carbon and carbon/kevlar. For several reasons however the tube will be getting skinned with a single layer of carbon. Here's the pics:
  13. Time to proceed with the project now that I am back in the UK. Almost a year since the last post! Finally got the mould and layup properly enveloped and have completed the infusion. Here is a video of the final stages of infusion with the resin and residual air escaping: 20210226_143814.mp4
  14. Tommi, yes i had a feeling there was a fork mount involved somewhere, but couldn't confirm it because of the front holes. Going off what you said i dug up this: And this explains the front holes, and also demonstrates the two dovetails in action. Eventually I will probably plug the fork mount holes, if re-spraying. Thanks for your reply Tommi, that helps explain what all the holes are for.
  15. Hi, managed to get home and inspect the C8. I was half expecting a cracked/chipped/scratched meniscus. however the optics look pretty darned decent. I have included a couple of pictures to demonstrate (not sure the best way to photo this)........ The focusser is also very smooth, although i don't have another to compare it with. The tube has seen better days, the bolts are corroded/missing, and there is corrosion under the paint on the end caps. Large areas of bubbling are visible. Not too worried about the end caps for now, but can any of you knowledgea
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