SyedT

Lovely, really like the 'mistiness' as mentioned before. Perhaps the core could be dialled down a bit using HDR Multiscale Transform in PI? And agree about bringing out the blues a bit more. In terms of diagonal composition, that does tend to work better, but I do find that occasionally seeing a more horizontal composition adds to the variety and brings a different kind of depth to the composition.

I think I'll end up going for a pair of 10x50s for travel use, and then maybe think about mounted 25x100s for backyard viewing. Once again, thank you all for the advice.

Thank you everyone, this is all really helpful and will go some way in helping me to make up my mind!

Hi all, I'm currently into imaging, but looking to get a pair of binos both for observing from home and taking on trips where I can access dark sites. I live in a Bortle 5 zone. I've done a lot of reading about the different factors involved in choosing binos. For me, the main factors would be performance under light polluted skies, ability to resolve some of the larger star clusters etc, and a degree of portability (they have to be small enough to fit into a carry on backpack on flights). I've been into astronomy long enough to know that there's never a perfect solution and that one avenue always takes a hit, which is why I've come to SGL for some wisdom! I initially looked at 25x100 binos, which clearly are way too large, then jumped to the other end (10x50s), which may not provide adequate viewing. Currently feeling a bit stuck, so would appreciate any advice before I take the plunge. Thanks in advance!

I recently purchased an Atik 490EX second-hand to see what CCD imaging is like, as I've only ever used CMOS cameras. I spent last night doing short imaging runs on various targets without any filters (7x36 mm carousel for the EFW2 is currently on order). The noise levels are very impressive, giving clean images which require minimal noise reduction, and the chip is very sensitive. Any bad columns/vignetting processes out very easily. I've probably overcooked these images in terms of processing, as I was seeing how much detail I can pull out of a short total imaging time. Equipment: Takahashi FSQ-85EDX Atik 490EX + Atik EFW2 (No filters used) Feathertouch FTF3015B-A Focuser + Pegasus FocusCube Lodestar + Primaluce Lab 60 mm Guidescope Avalon M-Uno Fast Reverse Pegasus Pocket Powerbox + Anker 7-port USB hub PoleMaster Software: SGPro, PHD2, PoleMaster, Stellarium M31: 60x60s = 1 hour M33: 60x60s = 1 hour Dark, flat and bias frames applied Processed in AstroPixelProcessor & Pixinsight (including StarNet for star removal) Bortle 5 skies

Hi Dave, You need to place the files directly into the bin folder, as opposed to placing the starnet folder in he bin folder. Cheers

It did that to me after I exited Pixinsight using task manager. Just remove and replace the files, reinstall the module and try again. I did that, restarted the computer and it worked fine after that.

Definitely worth a look. There are some artefacts with larger and brighter stars but that's to be expected. I've not seen any loss of quality so far.

Not sure about that as I've only used the PI version myself!

Yes, there's an option in the module which can extract stars.

I'm using the Pixinsight version.

No problem! Depends if it's in pixinsight. Once installed, it's as easy as clicking it in processes and letting it run. You can even generate a star mask from it instead (although it won't do both at the same time). Not sure about the executable as I haven't used it. Edit:As Freddie has mentioned below, there is a readme file which talks you through what to do, both for the Pixinsight and executable versions.

I've been doing some testing using Starnet's Pixinsight module for creating starless images for processing, and I'm nothing short of blown away. Free, just a single click needed, with incredible results. It can only be used on non-linear images, but the results are so impressive that I might just get rid of my linear processing routine (deconvolution, MLT) as it recommends for untouched stretched images to be used; can use both colour and grayscale images. Created by Nikita Misiura, it can also be obtained free as an executable for Windows and Mac: https://sourceforge.net/projects/starnet/files/. 4 hours of IC 1396 (Elephant's Trunk Nebula) in Ha: 18.5 hours of IC 1805 (Heart Nebula) in Ha: IC 1396 Bicolour (Ha 4h & O3 6h):

Thanks, I'll ensure it's well ventilated. Any ideas about any specific flooring that's needed?

Thanks for your reply Julian. I'm based in the midlands in the UK. It will be a roll-away situation, I'm hoping to either have a dolly or trolley which I can use for this. Equipment will be telescope, camera, mount, filter wheel etc.

Hi everyone, I've invested in a simple equipment shed, whereby I'll be wheeling out equipment into the garden every time I need it, but it will live inside the shed. It's a wooden pressure-treated shed with overlap structure, no windows. I was looking to get some advice on the need for insulation, as I've seen differing advice online. Some say insulation should be installed, others say that it will cause a significant temperature gradient and trap heat etc. Cheers

As a long-time customer of FLO, I'm used to excellent service on their part. This particular experience has made me rate them even more highly. I recently managed to get hold of a Feathertouch focuser second-hand, but needed a couple of adapters; these were listed as arriving in 30-40 days on the website and were at a very reasonable price compared to their European counterparts. I ordered late at night on 7th July, expecting to receive the order sometime in August. I then received an email on 15th July telling me that the order had been completed, and had the items by the next day; I couldn't be more pleased with the service!

Yes. There's no physical switch on the hub itself. When I connect it up, all I do is switch on the main power and it powers up.

I use an Anker hub purchased from Amazon, works flawlessly. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker®-PowerIQ-Charging-Samsung-Motorola/dp/B00VE4UJD4/

The CEM60 has been a dream mount so far for me. Light weight, quiet, tracks well. I tested it out with my Edge HD 800 which I just got a few days ago and I was getting an RMS of 0.59 using an Evoguide without any major tinkering in PHD2. With my FSQ85 it easily gets sub 0.5 RMS. The USB hub is a big bonus. I'm glad you guys are stocking, it'll be much easier to pick up accessories!

I have the ASI 1600MM-C V3; darks are necessary particularly if you're doing longer exposures to cut out the amp glow; they really do help a lot from my experience. I didn't really take flat frames initially as with my 2 inch filters I wasn't getting any vignetting, but since I've started doing flats I've noted that the images seem to have a better illumination profile, and of course all optical train dust bunnies are removed. According to my understanding, bias frames are subtracted from flat frames to keep only the illumination profile, so bias frames would definitely help. Each filter needs to have its own set of flats as they will let different amounts of light through (particularly LRGB vs NB). You'll only be able to build a master for your darks/bias for use later unless your imaging rig never rotates/collects dust (as that's what flats help to reduce); I take flats for the appropriate filters after I complete imaging sessions.