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Everything posted by Jamgood

  1. Have you set the correct port for the connection in the Toolbox? Start > EQMOD > EQASCOM > Toolbox > Driver Setup Set the Com Port to the number that corresponds with the Lynx Astro Cable in the Ports (COM & LPT) in your Device Manager.
  2. That's fair enough and I don't blame you to be honest. I've personally never had any success with N.I.N.A either. I've always successfully used APT and have been happy with it but I like to try new things. The first few times I tried N.I.N.A it just crashed when trying to start the camera. I've since tried it again and managed to get everything working but suffered from random crashes in the course of imaging sessions. APT just works for me and works well. I'll stick with what I know.
  3. Can you not test it in the daytime on a distant object or even a blurry close object. For the 294mc I use the defaults of 120 Gain and 30 Offset. Like I said before I did have some idle camera issues with APT, usually after a meridian flip, and dropping the USB down to 40 solved that for me.
  4. When I upgraded from DSLR to Dedicated, I went for the OSC for the reason of UK weather. I'm deep in the Midlands in what is known as Cloudsville! As much as I really liked the idea of Mono imaging I just don't get the weather that allows for the kind of time needed for it. The OSC with the Optolong L-Enhance and L-Pro has served me well for the times I found I can use it. I've literally has 2 nights in the last 10 weeks though. I'm now thinking when I do eventually go for a mono set up, rather than upgrading, I'll keep the OSC gear as well, for the bad weather spells, and have the best of both worlds.
  5. Try lowering the USB Buffer in the camera driver settings?
  6. I think you could find more facts in the words of David Icke.
  7. I don't use one of those adapters as I have a dedicated camera but my back focus with the TS-Optics GPU is set at 55mm and works perfectly. Recommended for the TS-Optics GPU is: ♦ Focal length up to 600 mm - working distance 53 mm ♦ Focal length 610 mm and more - working distance 55 mm I went with that.
  8. It definitely can't do any harm and it's completely reversible if you're not happy with the results. To be honest, it's the best mod I've made to the 130PDS.
  9. If the clips are still on show behind the baffle you would still have some amount of diffraction from them as any hint of them would block some light getting to the mirror. I don't think that rim on your mirror has anything to do with it as that rim doesn't exist on a Skywatcher mirror. It's just glass up to the edge. Using the baffle won't remove all of the halo but will reduce them significantly. As I said about, any hint of the clips still on show would continue to cause diffraction in the smaller halo.
  10. @alacant I wasn't confident enough to do the silicone mod to my first and only scope, so far. It does make sense although I can live with the couple of mm that I've lost with the baffle.
  11. Yeah the exposure times are different as are the cameras/filters used. The first image was 3hrs with a Canon 60Da and a CLS filter. The second image is only 50mins with the ZWO ASI294MC Pro and an UV/IR Cut filter.
  12. I never wanted to cut the focuser on my scope. I used the Baader originally and lived with pacman shaped stars, although I didn't think they were too bad at the time. I got rid of the Baader and went for the TS-OPTICS GPU CC. This CC pushes the focus out by 20mm so no more focuser intrusion in the OTA and lovely round stars. I found the Baader a complete nightmare with spacing and tilt. The GPU just worked, no fuss. Add a baffle to the primary mirror to block the mirror clips and you get even better looking images. No more horrible diffractions from the mirror clips. My images have gone from this.....Baader MPCC and no baffle. To this.....TS-OPTICS GPU CC with baffle. Amazing what a little change and modding can do.
  13. @David127 I use a single 10 metre Active USB Extension to connect my rig outdoor, through a window, to a desktop PC. I'm now using a Pegasus Pocket Power Box Advance and everything connects to that but previously I have used two 10 Metre USB cables with a non powered USB Hub/Splitter on the end of one of them and had no issues at all. With that old set up I had my imaging camera, guide camera and mount connected and it worked like a charm.
  14. @Catakraken The first thing I would do is remove the Baader MPCC. There's no advantage collimating with that attached to the camera. Secondly, you would want to have the camera fixed firmly into the focuser for collimating. If you don't tighten the screws, even the slightest movement of the OTA will affect the view and having the OTA on a mattress/bed for the procedure won't help you at all. When collimating, I have my scope on the mount. That way I can manoeuvre the OTA any which way I want and check collimation is good for all angles the scope may point. I don't use a camera to collimate but the same principles apply to whatever you use. You want you collimation tools locked in so that you have a constant and repeatable view. If you can lock in your tools the same every time, then you can lock in your imaging camera the same when ready to start shooting. As @rotatux said above, tilt is something that you will always have to work with as it's the nature of the beast. Sadly, no 2" fittings ever fit perfectly.
  15. I would guess that the 2 screwed attachment on the end of the focuser is pushing the collimating camera out of line. Your first port of call will be to try and get that as straight as possible so the green aligns with the end of the focuser tube. When you find the position that camera needs to sit so it's straight, collimate. Then you have the issue of trying to get you imaging camera in exactly the same place. Sadly, the two screwed attachments on the SW's are notoriously annoying for pushing things off centre, introducing tilt. Some people tap a third screw and that can help a bit. Others change the attachment altogether to a compression ring, etc.
  16. I apologise in advance but @FLO guarantees clear skies.....eventually.
  17. Cheers, I'll have a look into Skysafari. I've used Cartes Du Ciel before but never really got on with it and I went the Stellarium way.
  18. I've just figured out how to add Asteroids into Stellarium and rewinding it back to my imaging time last night shows them both in their exact spots.
  19. That's awesome! Thank you Wiu Wiu.
  20. I don't think you'll regret it. It is one of the better mods I've done to my 130PDS so far. Stars in my images have gone from looking like this...... To this......
  21. Thanks for that Mike. I'll have a look at that site.
  22. Hi Folks. Firstly, I'm not sure if this is the correct forum to be posting in, so apologies if not and please move to the appropriate area. Early this morning after losing my initial target behind trees I thought I'd go and grab a few hours on Pleiades before packing up for the night. I often use Deep Sky Stacker Live while imaging, just to keep an eye on the data coming in and generally see how things are looking. In the 1hr 30m I got of Pleiades I noticed two objects making a continuous line in DSSL. Being relatively new to all things Astro, I have no idea how to identify these types of things. The two objects were to the side and above of Atlas. The image below shows them after 40mins (top) and after 1hr 25mins (bottom) So my question is, how do you identify an object like this in your images? Thanks in advance for any help. Anthony
  23. @Craig a You can 3D print a mask and it takes a couple of minutes to fit with a little bit of Velcro. If you're unhappy with the results, etc, it is none destructive and 100% reversible. Here's mine and I got the 3D Mask Design file from HERE. Another thing that made a big different to my 130PDS images was a change of Coma Corrector. I was using the Baader MPCC and the focuser was pretty much cranked all the way in leaving the focuser tube blocking a lot of light. I changed over to a TS-Optics Superflat GPU CC and the difference is huge. The main reason being the TS-Optics CC pushes the focuser out by around 20mm. This is where my focuser sits now. No protrusion into the OTA at all.
  24. No problem. Bob's Knobs are a great addition to the scope. I have them on mine also. Makes collimation of the secondary a much easier task.
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