Jump to content

740427863_Terminatorchallenge.jpg.2f4cb93182b2ce715fac5aa75b0503c8.jpg

Jamgood

Members
  • Posts

    365
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jamgood

  1. A quick google of the William Optics adapter you have linked says that it is: Optical length: 37mm Should be just right.
  2. I think it depends on the cc and the connection. Mine is 55mm at m48. Baader is 55mm at m42 and 57.5mm at m48. You'll just have to double check with whatever you choose and get appropriate spacers in the correct thread to make up the difference. You can get sets of m42 and m48 spacers in all different sizes.
  3. The ASI294MC comes with enough adapters to put any CC at 55mm, as that is the standard for most, so it was literally just plug and play for me. When I had the Baader, I used it with a Canon 60Da. With a Canon, the back focus to the sensor is 44mm. Add a T Ring at around 11mm between that and the CC add it gives you, roughly, 55mm. Maybe a few spacers needed to fine tune. I have no experience of Sony cameras, sorry. I don't know what that back spacing on the Sony is. You can measure it though. The little marker on the camera indicates the position of the sensor. (Red Arrow) Measure from there to the flange (Orange Arrow) and then you need to make up that distance to 55mm, obviously including a T Ring. So for example, say the sensor to flange distance is 18mm, plus an 11mm T Ring, you would need to make up 26mm before a CC in whatever connection you're using. Hope that helps a bit.
  4. If you use use a DSLR, you will need a T2 Ring with M48 connection. I've only ever used mine with the ASI294MC and connection was not an issue right out the box.
  5. It isn't cheap, you are right but I wish I knew about this CC before I bought the Baader. I would've spent the extra and saved myself a lot of confusion and messing around. I got the Baader when I first started Astrophotography and although I did get good results with it, I always had to crop my images because it never gave round stars all the way to the edge. YMMV. Some people are very happy with their chosen CC's. My experience of the Baader was hit and miss drom one night to the next. As for visual, I have no idea. I've only ever owned the one telescope and I've never put an eyepiece in it and looked through it. People find that strange but I've never had the desire. My viewing site in my garden is surrounded by so much light, I figure it's a waste of time and Astrophotography is all I wanted to do from the get go.
  6. With the Baader, my focus position was very far in. Regardless of the focuser attachment I was using, there was a big chunk of the path taken up by the focuser tube protruding into the OTA, leaving Pacman or D Shaped, stars. (I don't have any images of that set up) With the TS Optics CC, the focus is pushed outward by roughly 20mm, give or take. My focus point now has no focuser tube protrusion at all.
  7. I believe they are the same but with a different brand name on them.
  8. I was using the Baader MPCC III with my Skywatcher 130PDS and was never happy with it. After lots of fiddling around to get the spacing just right, I was then dealing with focuser tilt. Due to the bevelled design of the barrel on the Baader, it was a nightmare to get the thing straight. I tried many focuser attachments, compression rings, etc. Nothing really worked well. Then by chance I came across one of these for sale, used, on here. TS-Optics NEWTON Coma Corrector 1.0x GPU Superflat - Even a used one was more expensive than a new Baader but much less hassle. It was literally plug and play for me. I've never been happier and highly recommend it. Good luck with what you decide to go for.
  9. You'll probably have to put an Autostretch on in the histogram to see anything in your previews at night, especially for 2 sec exposures. I use the 296MC Pro and that's what I have to do. In the day, focus on something as far away as possible and that should get you somewhere near the ballpark for focus at night. Also a good idea to do the same with your guidescope/cam. Depending in the make/models, some can be a bitch to focus in the dark. If you have to do it at night or twilight, use the moon. Very helpful for focus.
  10. I've read arguments for and against that method. I opted for the 3D print version. Only took 5 minutes.
  11. I've not had much imaging time lately but managed a couple of hours on the East Veil Nebula last week. Grabbed some obligatory shots of the moon as well, just because. I got round to doing the mirror clip mod yesterday and I'm looking forward to see what difference that makes to the brighter stars.
  12. Fantastic images Brendan. Well done.
  13. It's probably an overlooked setting somewhere. When you connect PHD2 to your camera and mount what do you have in the connection options? and do you see an image through your guide camera/scope? It should look something like this. You want the mount connected as above. Your camera will have something like ASI Camera (1) ASCOM (You will need the ASCOM driver installed)
  14. Nope. I should really. I got the generic eyepiece thing with my scope but that's never been out of the box. I bought the Sky Watcher 130PDS with the intention of learning Astrophotography and I've just gone from DSLR to dedicated camera an that's it. The big thing that puts me off visual is my backgarden is lit up with a ridiculous amount of lights all around me and I'm in a Bortle 8 zone as well. I don't need a torch when I go out there it is that light. It really blows my mind that my little scope catch see and catch the photons that it does. I think visual out there would be a major let down.
  15. Like yourself, I've always had an interest in everything to do with space. I'm 43 now and since I can remember I've always wanted a telescope. I finally got one last year after a few months of looking around and deciding what I wanted to actually do with the 'telescope'. Having seen lots of great images people take, I decided I wanted to have a go at Astrophotography and have since got myself a great little set up that gives me some fantastic images. Plenty of kit for me to learn with before I eventually upgrade or add more to my arsenal. Strangely though, to this day, I still have never looked through a telescope at the stars. I don't know why but I've not felt the need to. I'm quite happy collecting data and creating images that continue to amaze me every time. This is my current image I'm working on. It's a great hobby.
  16. Looks like a very poorly home made project. The mirror (if it is a mirror) looks like it's been mauled with grubby fingers. The spider vanes looks twisted. Someone probably had fun making it but it looks worthless to me, although I'm no expert.
  17. I can't vouch for your recommended Coma Corrector but I do have a TS Optics CC which was an upgrade from the Baader MPCC. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p6706_TS-Optics-NEWTON-Coma-Corrector-1-0x-GPU-Superflat---4-element---2--connection.html More expensive than the one in your link and non reducing but I have no complaints with this, used on a Sky Watcher 130PDS. I did have the Baader and used it for quite a while but found it very troublesome to mount well without tilt. One corner of my images were always off. I tried different focuser attachments and none ever fixed the issue. No issues of tilt at all with the TS Optics CC.
  18. Some tips I found useful when using the handset. After the first night of successful alignment, always set your mount up in the same space. Mark places on your mount so everything is the same, everytime. Mark the floor where the feet go. I do this religiously and my mount is almost polar aligned with just a little tweaking needed. There will always be some degree of inaccuracy for star alignment. Adjustments will have to be made. Even now I plate solve, I'm slightly off but plate solving does it all for me. There's a useful app for Android phones if you have one called SynScanInit. Gives you all the correct info you need for the handset and the polar alignment position. Check that the reticle in your polar scope is calibrated. Easy to do and can be done in the day time with a distant tv aerial or something static. Don't give up. These things are frustrating and can change from one night to the next. Troubleshooting will become a regular occurrence as technology has a habit of being off sometimes.
  19. I highly recommend the 130PDS as a first scope. It's my first and only scope so far. Yes you will have the usual brain aches with regards to collimation but that's par for the course I think with everyone new to Reflectors. Once you get your head around it, no problem. The thing that is of the most importance is the mount. I'd say, at the very least, you want an HEQ5Pro. I started out with the EQ3pro with my 130PDS and sold it within 3 months and upgraded. Look out for good used stuff as well as that can save you a lot of $£$. Play, learn, watch video's, tutorials, read everything you can. Know in your mind what you want to achieve and what you need to achieve it before hitting the Buy Now buttons. Fools rush in. (*EDIT*) Looking at people's signatures on here helped me with my purchases. Look at people's images and see what gear they use.
  20. Have you got Dark Optimization ticked in DSS Settings? If so, turn it off.
  21. It does look like it could be Flat related. Did you have the tshirt stretched tight? Maybe try without the tshirt or try with plain paper. I don't use a tshirt or paper as I've never found the need to with my tablet. (Although I tried everything to fix my issue) A white screen seems to do the job just nicely. My flats with the 294MC are between 0.1 and 0.3 seconds depending on the filter I use.
  22. What are your Dither settings in APT? When I had mine set to small dithers (around 2) I used to get correction errors like you're seeing. Between 7 and 12 seems to be the right area for my mount.
  23. Further trialing of the new camera from last night. 3hrs on M101. (The Pinwheel Galaxy) Next time it's clear I'm going to try add some 600s shots to this and see what the result bring. Happy with this so far though. 36x300s Light Frames (3hrs) Cooled -10° 40 Dark Frames 40 Flats 40 Dark Flats Sky Watcher 130PDS HEQ5 Pro with Rowan Belt Mod ZWO ASI294MC Pro Pegasus Powerbox Advance TS-Optics GPU Superflat Coma Corrector SVBony UV/IR Cut Filter Orion 50mm Guide Scope & Orion Star Shoot Auto Guider Astro Photography Tools & PHD2 Deep Sky Stacker & Photoshop
  24. I've got that target on my to do list. Well done
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.