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Jamgood

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Everything posted by Jamgood

  1. I bought a used HEQ5pro from someone on here and it was a decent mount to start with. Regular guiding of 0.8 which is more than acceptable but in my mind, I was always going to do the belt mod to it. A week later it was done and it now guides at 0.4/0.5. How much of a difference you'll notice with those numbers I really don't know but I know I have nice tight round stars and that's what's important. The sound was never an issue for me as the mount is outside and I'm not but the noise reduction was huge. Those gears are noisy little buggers. Slewing is not really any different but settling after slewing is much nicer. Tracking is much smoother. No sudden spikes during corrections. I say it's a worthy upgrade to make the mount the best it can possibly be without sending it away for some crazy hyper tuning or something. If you do go for it, buy the pinion extractor as well. It'll save you a lot of time and you won't have to put much cash in the swear jar. Took me 30 minutes to do both motors after watching a few video's so I knew what I was doing well ahead of time. (Before I owned the mount in fact)
  2. I use to run my HEQ5 via a 30ft 12v extension cable, it only received 11 volts and it never skipped a beat. I've since change a lot around and now it gets a steady, regulated 12v and still doesn't skip a beat. I can't see how increasing to 13v+ will make much of a difference. There will be a min/max power for the mount to work sufficiently and as long as your supply is within the boundaries, it should work fine.
  3. That's not bad at all. The secondary mirror could be tweaked a little but for observing, that should be pretty decent.
  4. Still hanging on in hope.....looking up into the gloom.
  5. Clouds to the left of me, clouds to the right. Here I am stuck in the middle with a telescope waiting patiently in hope. 😐
  6. Same in Derby. Not even a brief glimpse through the clouds.
  7. Exactly the same issue here. Can't find the damn thing!
  8. Clouded over here completely. 😒 Watching two live streams.
  9. Can't see a thing. Got the scope set up and pointing in the direction but only seeing clouds here.
  10. Jamgood

    My Pics

  11. From the album: My Pics

    Veil Nebula 6 Panel Mosaic taken over two nights on the 7th & 8th June 2021. A work in progress......
  12. Very nice. Just done a 6 panel mosaic of the Veil Nebula myself. Great target.
  13. Two nights worth of data so far on my first 6 Panel Mosaic of the Veil Nebula. I'm really pleased with this so far. I've also learned a few new processing tricks along the way. 10x300sx6 Light Frames (50mins Per Panel) Cooled -10° 40 Darks 40 Flats 40 Dark Flats Sky Watcher 130PDS HEQ5 Pro with Rowan Belt Mod ZWO ASI294MC Pro TS-Optics GPU Superflat Coma Corrector Optolong L-Enhance Orion 50mm Guide Scope & Orion Star Shoot Auto Guider Pegasus Powerbox Advance Astro Photography Tools & PHD2 Astro Pixel Processor & Photoshop
  14. Started working on my first Mosaic last night. 4 panels of 30minutes and 1 of 10minutes. (I ran out of time to do all 6 as the sky started to get bright) Looking forward to adding to and working on this. This is straight from APP. No extra processing as yet.
  15. Have you calibrated your polar scope? Many, if not all, are way off from the factory.
  16. A quick google of the William Optics adapter you have linked says that it is: Optical length: 37mm Should be just right. 👍
  17. I think it depends on the cc and the connection. Mine is 55mm at m48. Baader is 55mm at m42 and 57.5mm at m48. You'll just have to double check with whatever you choose and get appropriate spacers in the correct thread to make up the difference. You can get sets of m42 and m48 spacers in all different sizes.
  18. The ASI294MC comes with enough adapters to put any CC at 55mm, as that is the standard for most, so it was literally just plug and play for me. When I had the Baader, I used it with a Canon 60Da. With a Canon, the back focus to the sensor is 44mm. Add a T Ring at around 11mm between that and the CC add it gives you, roughly, 55mm. Maybe a few spacers needed to fine tune. I have no experience of Sony cameras, sorry. I don't know what that back spacing on the Sony is. You can measure it though. The little marker on the camera indicates the position of the sensor. (Red Arrow) Measure from there to the flange (Orange Arrow) and then you need to make up that distance to 55mm, obviously including a T Ring. So for example, say the sensor to flange distance is 18mm, plus an 11mm T Ring, you would need to make up 26mm before a CC in whatever connection you're using. Hope that helps a bit.
  19. If you use use a DSLR, you will need a T2 Ring with M48 connection. I've only ever used mine with the ASI294MC and connection was not an issue right out the box.
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