JoshHopk

Hi Richard, If you're wanting to do deep sky AP, a HEQ5 is usually considered a minimum, as previous replies have mentioned. The 200P is quite large and will be a bit of a sail in the wind, (not good for long exposures). The 150P-DS was designed with AP in mind, and it'll be easier to focus using a DSLR, and even a dedicated astro cam, if ever you get one. Both scopes are f/5, so the 200P's larger aperture won't make a difference, so long as you use longer exposure times. Josh

Welcome to SGL Ryan 😃

In Stellarium, there's a 'Graphs' tab under the 'Astronomical Calculations Window', with which you can select different graphs with different info. If you select the object you're interested in it should plot a graph for your location (if you've set it up). Here's an example of M42 over the year. HTH 😃

I thought I’d put something back into this thread 😀. Not my best, but I’ve reprocessed my M42 shot from January. NexStar 5SE, Canon 100D, 97x 30s lights, 50x 30s darks. It’s only a JPEG, the TIFF was too large to upload. Josh 😀

The NexStar 6SE has an equatorial wedge you can use to polar align for longer exposures, I'd suggest trying that out (If you haven't already) before you spend anything. If you haven't any luck with that the next step is normally an equatorial mount and a short focal length telescope. I'll leave the more experienced members to discuss that with you, as I'm only really a beginner myself. DSLRs are a great staring point for deep sky BTW, a dedicated astro cam would be jumping the gun I think. Josh

Thanks jgs and lux, that's the advice I needed to hear. I'll try and get the ropes first and then upgrade, if the need arises.

Awesome 🤩

Never mind! After a bit more searching I’ve found some info which has helped me decide. (Mod the 1300D; it has a good dynamic range and manageable noise at suitable exposure times for the 130-PDS)

Hey Ant, There’s quite a few cameras in the ZWO range which will give you a ‘closer up’ view. I use the ASI224MC (Don’t know if you’ve considered this) and it’s given me some superb results, considering it’s currently sitting at £220 from FLO. As Merlin suggested a reducer can be used as well, as the chip on the 224 is pretty small. The process that you described (Video stacking to make an image) is correct yes. I’ve included some of the moon shots I’ve got with the 224MC, NexStar 5SE (1250/127) and a 2x barlow. Hope this helps, I’m only a beginner, so someone correct me if I’m wrong! 😄

Hi all, I’m looking to move into deep sky AP with a HEQ5 Pro and a SW130-PDS. I’ve heard this is a relatively nice way to get started. Anyway, in regards to a DSLR, I currently have a Canon 1300D, and was wondering if this is any good to start with? If so I would likely get it modified, or is it worth getting another model (e.g. a 600D) and modifying this instead? I will be using a SW 0.9x coma corrector as well. Thanks in advance, Josh

Okay, thanks. I’ll install AS!3 and use it next time.

Thanks all for the fast responses and the warm welcome to SGL. So, to recap: I should capture in RAW and debayer (using RGGB as the bayer matrix order) before stacking in PIPP, or whilst stacking in AS!2. Thanks again, Josh

Yes, sorry I do mean RGB24. I'll be sure to capture in RAW next time I get some clear skies. Thank you

Wow! I don't think I will ask; that sounds most confusing. I'll ensure to have a look at which bayer matrix order I use when processing. Thanks for the reply!

Thanks, I was very confused as to what order to do this in. I installed PIPP a while back but haven't really used it yet. Thanks for your advice, I'll give it a go!

Hello all, This is my first post on SL, so please correct me if I have started this topic in the wrong place. I am also relatively new to astrophotography, so please ignore my naivety! I had some clear skies last week, so decided to do some lunar imaging with my new(ish) ASI224MC. I captured my frames in SharpCap as RAW24 AVI files, stacked in AS!2 and processed in Registax and Photoshop. When i got to sharpening in Photoshop, I noticed a sort of mosaic pattern over the image, which took away from some of the detail, and really ruined the image the more I sharpened. I did a quick search and it turned up with 'debayering'. This is a completely new concept to me and all of my attempts didn't seem to improve the image at all (perhaps I was debayering in the wrong order?). I have attached some images and also my some of my SharpCap settings in case they are of help. COLOUR SPACE: RAW24 CAPTURE ARE: 1304x976 OUTPUT FORMAT: AVI files (*.avi) EXPOSURE: 0.29ms GAIN: 282 Thank you in advance Regards, Josh.