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About UKJay1971

  • Rank
    Star Forming
  • Birthday 11/01/71

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    Wakefield, UK
  1. NEQ6 Synscan 'polar align' feature

    Precisely - no difference in outcomes (apart from money). I use an ST80 with an Altair GPCam 2 mono and a 0.5x reducer so the guidescope becomes F/2.5 which is plenty fast enough for alignment.
  2. NEQ6 Synscan 'polar align' feature

    Drift aligning tends to provide the most accurate because it is working with the actual movement of your mount, in your location, and set up the way you set it up that night. I tend to find that other methods like synscan or polar scopes are approximates that get you close. I use Sharpcap's polar align feature which, again, gets me close but not as good as drift align. That said, I guide using PHD rather than mount driven guiding so 'close' is good enough for PHD to make corrections
  3. Sure - I got it from Bernard at Modern Astronomy and he has taken care of the return. This is after the aftersales team in China had FedExed me a spare part for free (had to pay like £4 import duty) just to see if that would work.
  4. The heated sensor window wasn’t working. Can’t wait to get it back - it’s a great camera
  5. Planning an imaging session

    I use Stellarium to plan my targets - you can input your camera / scope details and it helps with framing. Once happy, I copy the coordinates and paste them into Sequence Generator Pro and my targets are ready to go to plate solving.
  6. WADAS forum 4

    Lovely detail there - well done
  7. WADAS forum 4

    Been a good week for extended sessions - ran an 8 hour session on Wednesday night / Thursday morning on the Heart Nebula. 120 subs at 240secs each on a DSLR - sub pixel guiding and a perfect unattended meridian flip too! I have an issue with egg shaped stars near the outskirts - the problem is my 0.8x field flattener needs 51mm distance to the pixel but my 100D already takes 44mm from the sensor to the lens flange and my T Adapter is 10mm so it's over by 3mm. I think I have a narrower T Adapter somewhere but I won't get it down to 51mm. Heart Nebula by Jay Bolt, on Flickr
  8. WADAS forum 4

    Thanks - yes, was masking like crazy when stretching
  9. WADAS forum 4

    Managed to catch some sky last Saturday night. In particular, I was delighted to get my first glimpse on the Horsehead and Flame nebulae. The composition isn't brilliant but I will have time to return to these targets and compose a better image. Pretty pleased for just over an hour on a modded Canon 100D and ED80 scope. My QHY is back in China for repair so I'm back on DSLR for the forseeable future Horsehead Nebula by Jay Bolt, on Flickr
  10. Hi - sorry, I'm not being clear. I am an experienced imager but haven't used my DSLR on this scope. Under time pressure I couldn't find focus quickly so I am just looking for advice where about roughly focus in on a 200PDS - does it need an extention tube or not? Is focus at the innermost travel of the focuser or outermost. Using liveview on a DSLR is a nightmare when compared to the luxury of a CMOS cooled camera on Sharpcap. I can figure it out myself but just thought, if someone could quickly help, then I'd ask.
  11. I couldn't even find a star field! I lost patience with extension tubes which I don't think I need - trials of setting up an unfamiliar set-up in the dark
  12. Long winded title - basically I am in the situation where my QHY camera has gone back to China for repair and so I am back using my DSLR. I tried setting up last night on my 200pds but couldn't find focus using my DSLR and coma corrector. I was wondering if anyone can give me some clues where it is - I expect it will be very close to the inner focal extreme of the focus tube as that is what pds scopes aim to do. I have no distant objects to work on in daylight and, of course, the one time I could do with the moon, it's two weeks away from being useful. I have removed all elements from the focal tube other than the basic two screw locking collar and am slotting my camera and coma corrector into the tube.